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20th February 2018, 06:04 PM #1
Hammer A3 31 Torx screw problem - won't come out
I decided that after 4 years of Yeoman service that it was time to rotate the TC cutters from the first edge.
Most of them were able to be unscrewed with a power drill on Clutch 9 setting, but some required a little more. They were re-tightened on 9. The problem I have is that there is one solitary screw - RIGHT IN THE BLOODY MIDDLE would you believe - that will not unscrew for rotation. This is of course leaving a mark on the timber, but the rest of the head
is doing a superb job on timber.
I have broken three S20 Torx bits trying to get this sucker out. The bits are obviously designed to have a deliberate fail point so that they don't damage the screw. None of the 16 clutch settings are strong enough, and when I set the drill to "Drill" (rather than clutch) the bit just fails and the last 3mm snaps off (easy enough to get that out of the screw head). These are Suttons bits, and are all that are available up here.
I have put WD40 on it which seemed to get absorbed (but I dunno if it went down into the screw thread). Left that for an hour or so before I tried, but the bit just snapped again. Have resprayed to leave it overnight, but I have a suspicion that it won't work.
What to do? Try and heat it up with as fine a flame as I can? How much heat to give it? Will that bugger the cutter in the process? What about the cutters next to it, which will cop some heat as well?
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20th February 2018, 06:26 PM #2.
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Suggestions
Heat - a butane torch and an large ice block and alternate between the two. Not red heat.
The idea is to expand and shrink the screw by whisker amounts.
A proper impact driver (even a manual one) will work better than the clutch on a drill.
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20th February 2018, 06:28 PM #3Taking a break
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Try an impact driver, I use one all the time on the Shelix heads at work and have never snapped a bit.
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20th February 2018, 06:29 PM #4
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20th February 2018, 06:38 PM #5
G'Day Brett,
Are the torx bits that broke "impact bits" as there is a difference between standard screwing bits and impact bits....
Cheers, Peter
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20th February 2018, 06:40 PM #6.
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The other approach I've seen is repeated driving fwd and reverse with a clutched drill.
Definite go the impact driver bit route.
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20th February 2018, 06:48 PM #7
Rightio - standby chaps I'll go and Impact it (I figured that would just snap that bit too, but worth a try). There is only one bit left in the local hardware (I already used up four that I bought).
Dunno what sort crowie as there is nothing written on them. They come in the tiniest amount of packaging possible - room for a bar code, and that's it! (which is kinda refreshing in many ways)
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20th February 2018, 06:49 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Another trick that may work is to warm it up until it melts a candle when you touch it on the screw. This results in the liquid wax wicking into the thread and should help to release it.
If that doesn't work remove the cutters next to it and give it a good heat. Look out for colour change on the cutter and try to stop before it happens. Very often a threadlocking compound is used on critical screws and this is released with heat. A very small oxy flame, if you can get it, is best.
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20th February 2018, 06:53 PM #9
Well the impact driver was an immediate fail. I set it to the lowest speed and just gave it some short bursts (because I figured a long burst would be sure to snap it). I think it was on the fourth burst that it snapped.
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20th February 2018, 06:56 PM #10
Ok, but that will have to be late tomorrow or the next day now (I am officially out of bits until I can get to the hardware, and going to fletty to work on some timber in the morning).
I must say that these bits do seem to have a pretty early fail point. I get why they need to fail, but.....
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20th February 2018, 06:58 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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This is a common problem. Heat may not be necessary, I usually just fit a torx bit and give it a good wack with a hammer and then screw it out.
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20th February 2018, 07:04 PM #12
All I have is a very small butane burner for Kitchen duties, such as for use glazing a Creme Caramel. It still pumps out heat though, and is a pretty small flame. Removing the cutters either side is a good idea
There isn't (or shouldn't be) any threadlocking compound as these screws are designed to be removed regularly, and this is the last of 63 screws.
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20th February 2018, 07:07 PM #13
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20th February 2018, 07:30 PM #14
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20th February 2018, 07:34 PM #15
Brett, you "set" the bit with a percussive device and then use a 1/4 socket or ring spanner to back the screw out . . . Righty tighty . . .
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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