Thread: Jointer tables - How flat do they need to be?

Also, since I haven't got the 15 Amp outlet yet, I don't yet know how well or poorly the machine makes wood straight and flat.

Cheers

Sounds like a noticeable deviation from flat. I suppose that you can run different length/width boards through it and check them with your straight edge to see if the depression creates problems for any particular board sizes.

PS. Wait for the 15Amp power and do test runs before stressing about non-flat table.

Also just found this related post: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f154/j...e-flat-177910/

A refund isn't an option for me though.

While obviously less than ideal, I don't think it will noticeably affect the end result. If it was close to the cutter end of the table you'd definitely have a problem.

I just got a Jet 310HH delivered this morning and put a straight edge corner to corner on both tables.

Here are my results of the dishes.

Infeed: 0.13-015mm
Outfeed: 0.18mm

These are the low spots.
Im quite annoyed I can see daylight on a "precision machined" piece of equipment.
Not sure what to do about it.

Originally Posted by Blazk

I just got a Jet 310HH delivered this morning and put a straight edge corner to corner on both tables.

Here are my results of the dishes.

Infeed: 0.13-015mm
Outfeed: 0.18mm

These are the low spots.
Im quite annoyed I can see daylight on a "precision machined" piece of equipment.
Not sure what to do about it.

Not sure I'd be putting 'Jet' and 'precision machined' in the same paragraph anymore. If the tables are far out enough to significantly affect the end result (ie the machine is not fit for it's intended purpose) then Jet are legally obliged to repair, replace or refund.

For what it's worth, I have contacted Jet for comment on the problem since it seems to be a common issue. I'll report back with their reply.

Sounds like a good plan.

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Maybe a chat to the guys who machine engine heads would be a good start.

Originally Posted by rustynail

Maybe a chat to the guys who machine engine heads would be a good start.

Yeah I'm starting to speak to businesses about grinding. Not easy at this time of year though.

Got a rough quote of about $200 to do both tables, but I'm not confident of the tolerances they can guarantee. All I got assured was "it'll be good enough for woodworking". Very affordable, but it'll sure be a pain to take off and reassemble the tables, and the result will need to be much better than it is now to make it worth the effort.

Forgot to ask what method they use to, but it's not Blanchard grinding.

Anyone think 0.4mm is nothing to worry about?

It seems that this really worries you, so get it done, and get this out of your head

Would grinding the tables make other areas of the machine go out of whack?

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Originally Posted by Ilya

It seems that this really worries you, so get it done, and get this out of your head

Worried...I sure am! But I'm just trying to gauge if my worry is justified based on all you other woodworkers past experiences.

Still no 15 amp socket to run the machine, so I guess I'm stuck wondering until the new year. Electricians seem hard to pin down this time of year. Must all be off fishing.

Cheers

Originally Posted by chocwheaton

Yeah I'm starting to speak to businesses about grinding. Not easy at this time of year though.

Got a rough quote of about $200 to do both tables, but I'm not confident of the tolerances they can guarantee. All I got assured was "it'll be good enough for woodworking". Very affordable, but it'll sure be a pain to take off and reassemble the tables, and the result will need to be much better than it is now to make it worth the effort.

Forgot to ask what method they use to, but it's not Blanchard grinding.

Anyone think 0.4mm is nothing to worry about?

I wouldn't be too concerned about it. It's not ideal, but I don't believe it will have a noticeable effect of the flatness/straightness of the timber.