Thread: loose chuck

One thing you could try is make sure both the Morse Taper on the chuck and inside the quill are absolutely clean. Try cleaning with metho. Failing that you could perhaps smear some CA or Super Glue or some epoxy in there. Seeing it is a elcheapo drill it couldn't do any harm.

Mine falls out all the time. I just bang it back in with a piece of timber.

When the chuck falls off next time put it in an old saucepan and boil it for about 10 minutes, put on a thick clove and put the chuck on while it is very hot, give it a hit with a piece of solid hard wood then let it cool before using. The boiling water will swell the tapered hole and as it cools it should grab the shaft.
Rowley.

If all the above dont work...when the chuck is off, take a needle punch and "pein" the shaft in half a dozen places using a metal hammer. The small indents you make with the punch causes a dimple effect and slightly swells the shaft. Replace the chuck with a piece of timber and the same hammer....Regards,.........AL

Thanks guys. Some good ideas in there. I'll work on this later this weekend.

Bern

The most common problem is that when the chuck fell out it got a small bruise on the taper. This makes it fall out easier and more bruises. These create high spots on the taper and thus a catch 22.
To fix this
Remove the Chuck , clean the morse taper as Barry said with metho
Let it dry mark the taper with bearing blue or if you don't have any with chalk , put it back in then remove , note where the chalk has been removed as this is where its touching
With a small smooth hand file or a file with a strip of emery paper over it carefully and gently remove any high spots
Repeat till your getting a good coverage of the taper touching the inner taper
For a proper fit you need 80% but 40% will do
Its easier to do a proper repair and regardless of the cost of the drill , with good maintenance you can still get a good result
Buying a good drill press won't stop you accidentally dropping the chuck and you back where you started

Totally agree with Ashore.

the slighest dirt or damage is enough to compromise a proper taper fitting, provided both tapered parts are crafted in exactly the same angles (in which case a proper fit is impossible to begin with). Inspect both surfaces and clean them. Cure only the protruding rims of bruises or indentations with a fine file, do not sand or grind the entire cone surface. It is good practice to store tapered chucks or tapered insert type drill bits with a light coat of oil to prevent rust, but prior to use all grease or oil should be removed thoroughly from tapered fittings.
Try to avoid excessive force during beating the chuck home on its spindle. Hardwood or a wooden or plastic hammer is tolerable but the merciless impact of hitting something metal on the chuck metal will wreck the drill's spindle bearings, especially those of Chinese budget machines.

greetings

gerhard