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6th October 2014, 02:33 PM #1
Motor stopped working on dust collector
Hello All,
I have been building my own version of a cyclone dust collector thingy by cannibalizing my old 2hp dusty and after a lot of work I went to test the modified impeller set up and when I went to turn it on nothing.... I have had issues in the past with the motor not starting first go and thought it was just a dust thing so I used my air hose and gave it a blast but still nothing.
I am thinking its a dodgy switch as its one of those that you can remove the little plastic key to stop others from switching it on, however I wanted to pick everyone's brains as to what else it could be.
Its a standard carbatec 2hp dusty motor which is about 7-8 years old and apart from the aforementioned issue with it not starting occasionally I have had no issues.
What else would have this effect on a motor? I have checked the power point and its fine, runs my Planer no issues and the impellar spins freely so not seized.
I've also taken apart the switch box and cleaned everything down with air and can't see anything obvious
any ideas would be appreciated.
Steve
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6th October 2014 02:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th October 2014, 03:14 PM #2.
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If it has one it could be the run/start capacitor.
Have a look on the side of the motor and if it has a bulbous attachment then it has a capacitor
When you turn it on does it make a bit of a humming noise? If so that is a hint that the capacitor is gone.
You can check this by (BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS)
- MAKE sure the motor is turned OFF
- spin the impeller up to a good speed
- quickly turn the motor on and if it starts then its the capacitor
If it is a motor that uses a centrifugal switch then it could be the switching mechanism inside the motor.
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6th October 2014, 04:14 PM #3
Hello Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply.
I had a look at the side of the motor yesterday and it indeed has a capacitor (big blue D cell sized ), didn't know until now that's what it was called but hey learn something new every day .
When I turn it on there is nothing, no humming or any noise at all. (that's what made me think its the on / off switch)
Where would I look to check the centrifugal switch? is this something I can do or do I need to take it to a professional?
I don't mind having a go at these things if not too complicated.
Steve
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6th October 2014, 06:23 PM #4Senior Member
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gidday Steve it is an either/or scenario. You have no centrifugal switch because you have a capacitor . A trip to your local motor rewinder and he can change it over at minimal cost. Capacitors are measured in microfarad I.e. 25 or 30 uf which will be printed on the side of the capacitor. I suggest a motor rewinder to change it over as the can be a bit tricky to wire up given you only just learned what they are called it is better to get an experienced hand to play with the electrical bit
cheers
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6th October 2014, 07:26 PM #5
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6th October 2014, 07:50 PM #6
Well it seems I can get a replacement capacitor from Carbatec for about 22$ so I'll pick one up this weekend and give it a try, according to the guys there its not that hard to replace and I like a challenge
Cheers
Steve
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6th October 2014, 09:15 PM #7.
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6th October 2014, 11:00 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Danger......Danger.....Danger
Please read this. It's important, and (maybe) could prevent serious injury or worse.
Capacitors are (sort of) like batteries, and are capable of storing a substantial (even lethal) charge.
The difference is that this charge is fully and comprehensively discharged in the nanosecond a circuit is completed (i.e. a metallic tool or finger across the terminals).
This charge is in the case of some machinery in the thousands or even hundreds of thousands of volts. An old microwave, for example, lying on the tip face may have a lethal 100,000v plus fully charged capacitor waiting to kill the inquisitive. Likewise old TVs.
As a rule of thumb, the bigger the capacitor, the more semiconductive electrolyte, the greater the charge capacity (capacitance). Some old induction motors have big buggers.
Approach with caution.Sycophant to nobody!
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7th October 2014, 12:02 AM #9.
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100,000V is a slight exaggeration. Most Microwaves have transformer V around a couple of thousand volts at most so this is the most the capacitor can charge to, still more than enough to give a decent shock. Some Old TVs had higher voltages but nowhere near 100,000V
The Voltage on a cap on a mains powered motor will usually be no more than 250 V. Still enough to give you a bite and well worth shorting out the terminals before handling it.
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7th October 2014, 10:45 AM #10Member
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All of the induction motors (half to say 3 hp) that I have come across have both a Start Capacitor AND a Centrifugal switch. It is the centrifugal switch that switches the start capacitor out of circuit once the motor is up to speed.
The fact that the OP cannot hear the motor buzzing when the motor is switched on suggests it is either the main switch or the armature winding is open circuit.
I would only buy a new capacitor if I can hear the motor buzzing and it still won't rotate. If a manual "flick" test as BobL suggests gets it going, then it is either the Start capacitor or the centrifugal switch.
Trevor
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7th October 2014, 01:36 PM #11.
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7th October 2014, 03:13 PM #12
Hello Bob,
I will be trying this out tonight when I knock off work.
So just to be clear if I can get it going by the spin up test its most likely the capacitor but if not its probably something else?
For the sake of 22$ I'm not too fussed if I replace it and it still doesn't work because at least I have eliminated that particular possibility.
Steve
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13th October 2014, 02:00 PM #13
Hey guys just a quick update,
I tried the spin up test and it didn't work so I replaced the capacitor and didn't kill myself...
It turned out not to be the capacitor and actually was a faulty connection in the on off switch box which I missed first time around, I basically rewired the box with new connectors and a bit of solder and we were good to go.
I don't regret spending 25$ on a new capacitor as it was a good learning experience and not as hard as some would make it out to be, basically 2 wires and 2 connectors so pretty easy even for me.
Thanks for the help and suggestions guys
Cheers
Steve
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