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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Parkwood,Qld
    Posts
    30

    Default Thicknesser - problem with cut

    Hi all,

    I finally got that newer thicknesser I always wanted. Ive limited experience with them. This is a 15" fairly new and from a reputable place. The problem I have (same as my old old one) was that when the timber slab comes out the other side it gets this kind of undercut wave. Ive noted this with other thicknesser but haven't been sure what the problem was.

    Note : Im smoothing out small slabs for bread boards. About 10" wide and about 2 foot long approx 2 1/2 " thick.

    Ive tried adjusting the cut to say 0.5mm which has limited success. Less but you can still feel it. If you go for 1mm then it is really pronounced.

    What Im tinkin' ?

    a) adjust the feed out rollers
    b) stick to smaller cuts
    c) push down on the slab as it finishes on the feed out side.
    d) Check feed in and feed out extension are all in line with the main table (my thicknesser has two solidly bolted on 10" cast iron machined extensions for assisting feed and out) - all look in line using a steel rule

    Can you help ?

    Randal

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,178

    Default

    Hi Randal,

    You could try using a shallower cut and more of them. This may stop the stipe at the beginning of the pass you are doing.

    Regards,

    Rob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mount Colah
    Posts
    140

    Default

    b) and c)

    Short lengths will naturally kick up as roller pressure is release and cause snipe

    So small light finish cuts and pressure on the outfeed piece will sort it. Take thicker cuts to get near to thickness and finish with a very fine cut (or three)

    The usual method is to allow for snipe and have the piece long enough to trim this away.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    Glue some longer strips of sacrificial wood (eg pine) on each side of your breadboard blanks and then the snipe will occur on the strips and not your work. This is standard procedure when trying to plane shorter lengths. (I had to do this for a student who needed to plane a 200mm length to thickness)

    The other way is to make your breadboard blanks much longer eg 6ft long and then cut them to length after planing. This is the way I do it



    Regards,

    Chipman

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Age
    45
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Try these settings at this site Thickness Planer Setup

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    St George area, Sydney
    Age
    65
    Posts
    640

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chipman View Post
    Glue some longer strips of sacrificial wood (eg pine) on each side of your breadboard blanks and then the snipe will occur on the strips and not your work. This is standard procedure when trying to plane shorter lengths. (I had to do this for a student who needed to plane a 200mm length to thickness)
    Thats a brilliant idea, wish I had thouht of it, I have quite a few short lengths that I will be able to put through

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