Thread: All that time spent adjusting the fence on my table saw sled...

I would be happy even if it was a couple mm off

FWIW I used the 5 cut method to get the fence square. I've always found this a bit hit and miss for a couple of reasons. The first is all that maths just does my head in but the main reason is it's normally in Imperial and those fractions of inches I find hard to relate to metric. So the other day I decided I wouldn't give up till I understood it perfectly. I now do and what came out of it is a simple Excel calculation that only asks for the input (four measurements) then gives you the answer in mm. It looks like this:

Calc.JPG

If anyone else thinks this would help them PM me and I'll email you a copy of the file. I'd attach it here but I'm not sure if I can.

Well done getting your fence right. After all the stuffing about its a good feeling to get it right after the time spent making your sled.

I use to use the 5 cut method but I now use the dial indicator method ... see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC_iF5pZxmI&t=243s

It literally takes minutes and the only cut needed is the final test. When I first saw this video I was skeptical but after using it and verifying the accuracy using the 5 cut method I was convinced. This method works very well for miter gauges where the 5 cut method adjustments aren't suitable. For it to properly work you need a dead straight fence and a good, smooth, accurate square. I really do swear by this method so much so that I will not use the 5 cut method again.

Maybe, if your not sick of working on your sled and it sounds like you are, you could try this.

Originally Posted by barri

I use to use the 5 cut method but I now use the dial indicator method ... see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC_iF5pZxmI&t=243s

Do you use that attachment on the dial guage or just the standard point it comes with?

Standard point. I use one of those magnetic dial indicator holders and have the point "ride" against my square. I use one hand to move the sled and the other hand to move the sled until the dial indicator has little or no movement. I then clamp the fence and verify there is still little movement on the dial then screw the fence in with one screw. Make a test cut, which is generally spot on and then add more screws.

This does work but note the provisos I mentioned above

Originally Posted by barri

Well done getting your fence right. After all the stuffing about its a good feeling to get it right after the time spent making your sled.

I use to use the 5 cut method but I now use the dial indicator method ... see this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC_iF5pZxmI&t=243s

It literally takes minutes and the only cut needed is the final test. When I first saw this video I was skeptical but after using it and verifying the accuracy using the 5 cut method I was convinced. This method works very well for miter gauges where the 5 cut method adjustments aren't suitable. For it to properly work you need a dead straight fence and a good, smooth, accurate square. I really do swear by this method so much so that I will not use the 5 cut method again.

Maybe, if your not sick of working on your sled and it sounds like you are, you could try this.

Thanks Barri. It's VERY relevant that you should mention this because I too watched that video and was so impressed I went and tried it. I ended up adjusting my fence because it said I was a little bit out. Long story short I went back to the 5 cut method because I just couldn't get it right. The two methods didn't agree. And the reason was because the square I used was not (in your words) "a good, smooth, accurate square". It was a framing square (albeit a cheap one) and when I eventually exchanged it for my smaller square (which is almost 50 years old) it agreed with the 5 cut method. I put my trust in the framing square because "Mathias" says they're "almost" always accurate.

So yes I agree with you, the square and dial indicator is a very good and quick method provided you have an accurate square. If you don't the 5 cut method will work regardless of how accurate your calipers are.

While we're on the subject I also watched another William Ng video on how to make a mitre sled. It's very good as well and very accurate. I made one this afternoon and it showed me that the framing square was indeed out - not by much, maybe only 1° but that was enough to give me a false reading when trying to square up the sled.

Originally Posted by Tccp123

While we're on the subject I also watched anther William Ng video on how to make a mitre sled. It's very good as well and very accurate.

Yep Tccp! I tried that too and it works brilliantly. Perfect 45's every time.

The problem with most miter sleds on you tube is they say as long as the top point is 90 it doesn't matter if one side is 44 and the other side is 46. This only works if your are really "close" to 45 on both edges. William Ng's video shows exact 45s and that's why I like it. BTW I am a retired high school Maths teacher and his Maths makes perfect sense every time so I love watching a skilled tradesman who's good at Maths as well.