Thread: Zero clearance insert for Sherwood table saw

Make your own

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEHjJbpRzhA

Warrick

As per Warrick and the video, but if available material dictates, you can use a thicker material instead of buying a sheet the required thickness by routing small recesses under the insert that clear the table bearing points, and either set the recess depth accurately when routing, or route a little deeper and uses shims or adjustment screws to set the final height.
If using adjustment screws, use short Allen head setscrews (nut and bolt place), drill through holes slightly smaller than the setscrew diameter in the required positions and dribble a small amount of thin superglue into the holes. This will toughen the lining of the hole. Then insert the setscrews from the top. This way the screws are adjustable from the top, and you can easily be adjusted to set the insert flush with the table.

I have a table saw with a very thin insert plate. For zero-clearance inserts I use 1/8-in Masonite. To avoid tearout, I place a stout timber above the insert while raising the blade. Mark each insert with its bevel angle, and/or make new ones as needed.

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it. I'll give it a go down the track after I become more accomplished with my router. Think I answered my own question after re reading the manual and it says it's a Sears craftsman ��. Guess they forgot to change it to sherwood lol.

I made my zero clearance plates from some 3mm aluminium composite sheet off cuts I got from a salvage yard...mine was a bit tricky as I have a sliding table, so the edge against the sliding part of the table is unsupported...

Double side taped the one out of the machine onto the sheet of material and used the router table and a flush cut bit to get the shape...finished with a file for the sharp internal corner... while still stuck, drilled the holes...all over in under 20mins...