Thread: arc welding 90 degree joints - lots of trouble

Must be the upbringing! I was born in Ky and have exactly the same problem. Can't help you though - just want to see what answers you get

Originally Posted by TTIT

Must be the upbringing! I was born in Ky and have exactly the same problem. Can't help you though - just want to see what answers you get

lol, we need to organise a training day in the GV (Goulburn Valley) for noob welders I think !! Of course some of us are more noob than others !!

Im no expert and have no Technical advice on the rods you are using,but would think if you have the Rod in the centre of what you are welding the only reason for more weld going to one piece more than the other would be caused by the rod not being kept in the correct position.
If you are having trouble keeping the rod steady try using 2 hands to hold the electrode holder.
You could even try letting the rod lay against your free hand for support allthough your glove will get hot after a while.
Dont think you would really have to weave to get a good fillet on that size material.
Have you tried using 3.2 rods at all.
With the 2.6 rods would try running them at about 70/90 amps.
If you still try to do your weave would probably set closer to 70amps,you dont want it to get to hot as the weave will be a slower weld to lay down rather than the fillet.
If you are having trouble seeing the weld pool you lens may be to dark.

If it's not arcing well perhaps check how solidly your circuit to the vertical piece is.
If there's no good contact the arc won't go to it. Clamp it down tight just to put a couple of tacks first.

Originally Posted by Edster

If it's not arcing well perhaps check how solidly your circuit to the vertical piece is.
If there's no good contact the arc won't go to it.

I have the earth clamp on the horizontal piece, so it going to the vertical piece must be bad tecnique. (

Originally Posted by Matty5700

I have the earth clamp on the horizontal piece, so it going to the vertical piece must be bad tecnique. (

Maybe. The same metal for both pieces?

I added to my post to say try tack it first.
If the tack doesn't work, no point laying any more weld in there. Just makes more to clean off! If it holds, you know you've got a bit of metal there to conduct the electricity to both pieces.

Problem is the rod angle and action its easier if you Tip the job to 45 deg

Originally Posted by Ashore

Problem is the rod angle and action its easier if you Tip the job to 45 deg

Unfortunately the work bench frame is 800mm x 2200mm and the shed roof is low so there wont be any tipping. But if as you say the biggest problem is rod angle then i'll get practicing getting the angle right before I start my next project, shelves out of 30x30x1.6mm , gonna be a %#$%&^ I reckon !!

Matt.

When you are stitching pause at the top of the stitch for a count of 1 and try the rod at about 30 deg to the horozintal

Originally Posted by Ashore

When you are stitching pause at the top of the stitch for a count of 1 and try the rod at about 30 deg to the horozintal

would the same sorta thing apply at the bottom to ??

Originally Posted by Matty5700

would the same sorta thing apply at the bottom to ??

No you want the heat at the top and an arc to the verticle piece the bottom gets plenty of heat , and the delay is only just a second , hold it too long and you will get a hole

Originally Posted by Ashore

No you want the heat at the top and an arc to the verticle piece the bottom gets plenty of heat , and the delay is only just a second , hold it too long and you will get a hole

ok, so effectively I want to hold at the top and let the molten metal run down to the bottom, as well as moving the rod to the bottom in a stiching pattern.

Strike your arc at the bottom and then stitch up and hold for just a very short pause and if you could tip the frame at all every degree would help , its one of those things I could show you in 5 minutes but to describe , and like all stick welding its in the feel

Gidday Matt

Its always worth while mucking around on a test piece to get your AMPS just where you want them to run a good bead.

I used to do this kinda thing a lot when i first started welding and it usually was associated with my electrode angle being way off the mark or not enough AMPS (Usually a mixture of both)

Remember to run a good weld you've got to be comfortable and be able to clearly see what your doing Needless to say its essential that you get this part of the whole deal right N it'll assist in getting the results your trying to achieve.

Professionals are trained not to weave during a weld like this However a slight back and fourth wiggle no bigger than the diameter of your electrode ,may improve results! Regardless try to keep to the old 'KISS' principle (Keep it simple stupid!)

The positioning of your arms and body are often the difference between great and good results so try to set yourself up so you:

1. Can see everything clearly
2. Are Comfortable
3. Ideally so that your arms and or body are supported to decrease the natural rattle roles n shakes of your arm/hand

Once your setup and got you rig running how you want to (ie: LAying a good bead) its time to give it a crack

Strike your arc and try to watch the top and bottom of the arc build up to the size you want it then start dragging your weld pool along your fillet. Make sure your going in at 45 degrees with a 15 - 20 degree lead angle.

If you can get in the habit of being aware of what your weld pool is doing paying particular attention to watching it burn in and its size you should get good results relatively quickly!

Watching the top and bottom of the weld pool and being aware of the speed your dragging your electrode along will help you achieve a good uniform bead!

..................Hope this makes sense n you get the results your after !!!

Regards Lou