A build thread

[DaveTTC]

I need you at my place

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[ian]

Beautiful setting and nice work, but every time I see those beams I do keep asking myself "How big is the granny?"
If the rest of the structure is in keeping with what has been done so far it's going to be waaaay solid.

Michael

I'm a little worried by the span of those 200 UBs and the potential deflection once the glass goes in.

I think resolving how the glass will be installed and mounted should be done now before a completed frame restricts access.

[meadow street]

gday Ian,

Yes, bit of a concern.

Perhaps not packing the head of the window casing will allow for any upward deflection. Downward deflection in the form of sag may have to be taken up by a sliding fit to the glass using flexible sealing products as the final weatherproofing?

how much (mm) could the beam potentially deflect would you say? what sort of weights would cause significant deflection?

Hopefully most weight will be over the piers, so outside actions and live loads ( jargon I've picked up ) could be a concern? im going to try and bring the inside legs of the columns as close to the pier tops as poss ( see below)

twist, is the other action I guess?

we'll double up on the large joists (150x80mm) at the centre line and hopefully use a strong flooring product @ 450 mm centres on the rest of the 150x80 lvl joists which span 2800mm roughly.....ie 2800mm between ub200s.

im pretty sure it's safety glass, so shattering in a reasonably safe way is the worst case

would welcome more discussion on the performance of the building.

Meanwhile I painted the beams today....

I'm a little worried by the span of those 200 UBs and the potential deflection once the glass goes in.

I think resolving how the glass will be installed and mounted should be done now before a completed frame restricts access.

[ian]

The risk I see is the window openings don't remain square.
I'm not particularly worried about the glass breaking, more that you'll find it impossible to get a seal around the glass without destroying the look those large panes are designed to give.
I'm guessing the glass will be triple glazed and each of those large windows will weight more than 100 kg.

also now would seem a good time to trench for plumbing and other services.

[meadow street]

gotcha Mate. good thinking..........food for thought definitely

i reckon oversize openings will be a must, with trimming taking up any out of square.

thanks for the heads up!

reminds me of some of the Reno/ design shows where the glass doesn't fit, they are sick of the onsite caravan and the missus is about to give birth while the weather sets in for winter .........hahaha

The risk I see is the window openings don't remain square.
I'm not particularly worried about the glass breaking, more that you'll find it impossible to get a seal around the glass without destroying the look those large panes are designed to give.
I'm guessing the glass will be triple glazed and rather heavy.

also now would seem a good time to trench for plumbing and other services.

[meadow street]

no better feeling than running out of material and walking over the the scrap pile, having a rummage and coming up w it's exactly what you need!

needed to cap the tops of some rhs to deny water ingress and under a heap of other junk was exactly the 40x ? flat bar I required : )

now to outside corner welding practice

[Legion]

Those will be some thick caps.

[meadow street]

Those will be some thick caps.

yes the 40 mm part was perfect : )

you know, with e71t gs flux core you only get one chance really.

rated as a single pass wire since multi pass can mess with the weldment chemistry apparently.

fabshield23 Hobart - got it at 1/3 price, so gave it a run.

i do prefer having the security of a multi pass wire like nr211 mp from Lincoln.

anyhow, seems to run well with good slag coverage tonight which I s a good indicator for me that I'm doing ok

[clive hugh]

My concern would be the stumps are pipe set in concrete. Eventually it will rust through at concrete level. For that reason you are better to put in a heavy plate and weld the pipe to it. When it does eventually go it is fairly easy to cut the bottom 6 inches out and insert a new bit. It will only be the bottom part that goes, the steel plate will out last the rest. Use a bitumen paint on it. I just replaced some SHS which was about 12 years old. It was in Port Hedland which is hot all the time and normally not a lot of rain but the last couple of years have been wet, but I would have hoped for 15 years.
If they are dry under the house the life will be far better but on the outside where the rain blows in make sure you coat it well.

[meadow street]

customer has sent me this.

not engineered yet.

[Legion]

I've always wondered - how are you going to bend the top beams? I've got a killer pipe/tube bender but it's not going to cut it for big beams like that and I wouldn't mind some curved pergola beams. I presume you get a workshop to do it for you, and they can do (within reason) any big radius curves?

[meadow street]

yes, this will be farmed out to an engineering firm who has rollers to bend/curve the steel.

from what a gather, the members are put through roller wheels and pressure is applied to one edge.

the radius is 6523 mm. I wonder how accurate the machines are

[KBs PensNmore]

yes, this will be farmed out to an engineering firm who has rollers to bend/curve the steel.

from what a gather, the members are put through roller wheels and pressure is applied to one edge.

the radius is 6523 mm. I wonder how accurate the machines are

Hi Chris, you are correct, that the members are put through a rolling machine, similar to this one below.



Depending on the operator, he should be able to get within 1 mm of required diameter/radii.
I used to get a lot of rolling done, a company called Treggonings in Underdale, all within 1 mm diameter.
Kryn