Thread: Dull Grey TIG Welds

also forgot to add that stickout is about 3-4mm and I tried using a no 7 and a no 5 cup
Thanks
James

Your gas flow is too high and is probably mixing air into the shielding: 10 LPM is the most you should use with a 7 or 8 cup. Also - are all the welds are like this? Often they will get as you describe when the gets too hot after welding successive beads in a row. Cheers - Mick

All of the welds seem to turn out like this, even the first few. I will try turning the flow down slightly then and see if that makes a differance.

Any other suggestions

Cheers
James

Originally Posted by bimbo

All of the welds seem to turn out like this, even the first few. I will try turning the flow down slightly then and see if that makes a differance.

Any other suggestions

Cheers
James

Hi James,

Is the collet in the correct way around with the split end (the slits) pointig toward the tip of the tungsten? If in back to front the shoulder can reduce the gas flow rate by creating a restriction. Are you traveling into the welding zone or are you pulling away from it?

From your description it sounds like a gas related issue in that keeping the material shielded prevents oxidisation whilst it is still hot.

Cheers
Pete

Gidday

Ive gotten great results using 10-14 on the gas for my money your stickout is way to much get the arc as close as you can to your weld pool!

I never use a 3-4mm stickout I try to stay around 1mm n am virtually touching it when walking the cup!


You'll get much less shake rattle n roll By developing a good comfortable grip and looking for any way you can prop your wrists torch hand etc etc.............

Practice walking the cup for those shinny beads your chasing. If you can master this technique you'll consistently get great looking welds in most positions!

Regards Lou

All taken onboard - will have another crack this arvo.
I am pretty sure the collet is in the right way but will double check - I didn't think it would tighten up on the tungsten if it was in @rse about)
I will try a shorter stickout but from what I have read 2 or so times the diameter of the electrode should be fine - it is set so I can just see the tip of the electrode without having to lay my head on the bench. I set the cup on the test piece (3mm) and then tightened up the electrode when it was touching the bench - figured it would be a way of keeping a constant stickout when I have to keep changing electrodes

I have the test peice set up so that the thick cuff of the tig glove is resting on the corner of the bench - mid forarm. I find unless I have had too many cuppa's I can hold it fairly steady.

I am still working on correct arc lenght and getting consistant but I must be sitting fairly close as I have to change quite a few electrodes cause I have stuck it to the plate ot sucked up metal out of the weld pool.

I am welding into the welding zone - pushing the puddle and tapping the filler on the front edge of the weld pool.

Gut feeling make me think I am getting too much heat somehow or not a tight enough arc causing the weld bead to take too long to cool.

Hope to get a bit more time this arvo practicing

Cheers
James

Not sure if it means anything but the welds shine up ok with a quick going over with the wire brush

ID also recommend checking out Jodys Welding Tips and Tricks u tube channel..................all the basics are covered and im sure you'll gain a lot of information that will improve your technique n may address your issue.

Webpage: Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info

U-Tube: weldingtipsandtricks's Channel - YouTube

Regards Lou

had the same problem with my stainless welds on a little stick/tig inverter i bought. was mostly due to too many amps, but i also found going to a #8 cup helped as well.

how much push angle are you giving it also, doesn't need too much maybe 10-15 degrees