Thread: faulty welder

All your connections tight? Earth clamp? Any arc at all? We need some more detail on what "almost impossible" means.

It's a weldskill 130 like:

https://amanstoyshop.com.au/ProductD...productID=2305

It's been working fine, I was welding on about 65 amps, no problem.

Then I noticed that whenever I struck the arc the sound of the fan in the unit stopped for a moment, but it was working ok. I'm pretty sure it didn't used to do that.

Then it started getting worse, the fan died for a second or two as I tried to strike the arc and it became increasingly difficult to strike the arc at all - as if the current was very low. If I can coax an arc the fan starts up again and it will weld but not very well.

I checked all the connections and the earth several times and changed the rod, but I didn't think it was that because of the fan stopping thing.

It sounds like the voltage is dropping causing the fan to slow or stop altogether.
I would be looking in the direction of the the supply cable from the powerpoint to the welder, broken wires, loose connections and the like. You're not welding on a really long extension lead by any chance?

No, it's plugged directly into the powerpoint, the same one I've been using all along.

I'll check for anything obvious along those lines on the unit but from the way the fault developed progressively over an hour or so I suspect the welder is faulty and thought the symptoms might point to something typical and easy to fix.

I bought it second hand on ebay so its probably best to chuck it and buy a new one. The Weldskill 130 seems a good as choice as any for occasional use, what do you think?

Since it's secondhand, I'd pull the cover off and inspect the obvious internal connections and shine a torch around and look for scorch marks, molten insulation, etc. It might not be worth getting fixed, but it would be worth looking. If you see anything - take a photo, there's plenty of electronics minded people on this site. If you haven't already, try a different powerpoint/circuit. Cheers - Mick

As said above it sounds like voltage drop on the supply side.
First check the plug connections on the supply lead, if it is the moulded type you may need to chop it off and fit a new one. As mentioned by Mick try a different power point.
If still no joy remove the cover and check the input connections. (disconnect from power first)

I tried it in a different power point and it seemed to be working ok.

So thanks for suggesting that. I wouldn't have bothered checking it otherwise because that power point is just under the fuse box in the shed.

Thanks for all the help.

Good catch. The next think to do is get a sparky to check out that power point as it's clearly malfunctioning, and with a different load attached, may catch fire.

Originally Posted by RustyArc

Good catch. The next think to do is get a sparky to check out that power point as it's clearly malfunctioning, and with a different load attached, may catch fire.

Yes, that's the power point next to the bench I weld on so it would be a nuisance not to be able to use it. When I first got the welder I plugged it into a power board with an overload protection but it triggered the overload every time I started welding (there was nothing else drawing power) so I had to plug it directly into the power point. So it must be drawing a high initial current, although it's supposed to work off a 10A power point.

The power point is next to the fuse box and there is no cladding on the shed walls so I should be able to replace it with a dedicated 15A socket fairly cheaply.

Switchboard circuit breakers have a trip curve (most domestic ones are C curve, hence the C10, C16 etc. designation) which means they won't trip for modest overloads over a short period of time, like a welder.

The breakers in power boards aren't as sophisticated and generally a lot more sensitive.

Originally Posted by Glennet

When I first got the welder I plugged it into a power board with an overload protection but it triggered the overload every time I started welding (there was nothing else drawing power) so I had to plug it directly into the power point. So it must be drawing a high initial current, although it's supposed to work off a 10A power point.

... or maybe someone filed down the 15 amp plug?

Originally Posted by RustyArc

Switchboard circuit breakers have a trip curve (most domestic ones are C curve, hence the C10, C16 etc. designation) which means they won't trip for modest overloads over a short period of time, like a welder.

The breakers in power boards aren't as sophisticated and generally a lot more sensitive.

That explains it. The electrician is going to try to make it Wednesday to fit 15amp outlets. From my description he estimated probably $80 to $100 which sounds very reasonable.

... or
maybe someone filed down the 15 amp plug?
here we go here we go here we go!!!!!

Originally Posted by Vernonv

... or maybe someone filed down the 15 amp plug?

Not a file mark in sight

(I also checked the specs)