Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 32
-
5th November 2007, 09:22 AM #16
I have a samll oven in my workshop. I picked it up from a council cleanup a couple of years agao. It comes in very handy for all sorts of jobs. If I am having a welding day, I throw the rods in the oven for the day while I am working. Just over 100 deg is all I find I need. Really dry sticks will make your life easier.
-
5th November 2007 09:22 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
5th November 2007, 09:36 AM #17.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,756
-
5th November 2007, 07:06 PM #18
If more would use the angle grinder, a lot more before than after welding, we could reduce all this $eagull $hit <Grin>
If you are a bit shaky like - drop your gloved left hand fisted - down to the bench- but with index finger pointing and drop the near the end (notice I said near -not at the end) the electrode over it to steady the electrode up. Fossil is dead right about the rods in the oven.100 degrees C is spot on.Rods will pick moisture up if stored in open packets. I will be happy to look at your mig runs Matrix
I have another post coming on overwelding and distortion and complete with MS paint illustration. In the welding section too,before I get into strife with the mods.
She who must is home ,so its time for a cuppa
see you lot later
Grahame
-
5th November 2007, 09:25 PM #19
-
5th November 2007, 10:23 PM #20.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,756
Crikey Scoot, you're only 38 mate I got 15 years on you, mind you come to think of it mine started about your age. Apparently every one has these nerve twitches but they are usual random in most people so they cancel each other out. About 2.5% of folks have something called sympathetic twitching where a lot of the twitches happen in synch, magnifying the effect.
I've been starting off welding two handed and when I get going I move to one hand but Gra's idea sounds good - must go and try it. The problem with two handed is sometimes you need to hold something awkard in place - can't have too many clamps and one of my faves is this edge one.
-
5th November 2007, 10:43 PM #21
The use of copper sheeting is a trick used by car restorers to weld up pin hole rust spots in car repairs. If you hold a sheet of copper on the back of the hole you can weld it up then take the copper away.
Question about sticking the rods in the oven. I only use my welder every few months so my rods sit around (in plastic container) for a fair while and some have been around for a few years. If I put the whole lot in the oven would this rejuvinate them back to like new or do I need to use them straight out of the oven? I can see SWMBO asking what the hell am I doing already
-
5th November 2007, 11:05 PM #22Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- WA
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 27
Thanks for the tips everyone - have some rust holes to patch up soon, so will be looking out for some copper. I use a mig for almost all my welding but also have an arc welder that I am teaching myself to use. Just need to find the time to practice.
Best thing I ever did was buy an auto darkening helmet. The quality of my welds improved as I could use two hands to hold the gun or even one to hold the job whilst I spot. I think not having to start in the dark was the main reason. Nothing worse than lining the tip up and then dropping the mask to find you start your weld 5mm (or more) away form the joint!
Magnetic angle clamps are another investment that make me wonder what I did without them.
-
7th November 2007, 12:46 AM #23.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,756
Ok I dropped my amps as recommended, using brand new 2mm rods and things have just gotten worse.
I'm now @ 55A (as shown on the welder scale) mainly because I'm now working on 1.2mm SHS - boy is this tricky stuff with just a stick machine.
Firstly its taking 6 - 10 attempts to strike an arc and then the poo factor has gone up significantly. They all now look like my first run or worse!
On a more positive note I haven't made anywhere near the number of holes as I have in the past using Grahames tip of keeping the rod oriented towards the thicker side. Excellent tip.
I think I might try 60A? I was using 65A on the 1.6 mm SHS.
Cheers
-
7th November 2007, 07:58 AM #24
The trick with thinner metals is speed. You need to have enough amsp to make sure that you get the penetration but you can't go to slow because you will burn holes. I have this problem with students regularly. They always go too slow on the thin stuff and burn holes, and strangely enough the go too fast on the thicker welds??? Go figure that one out!?!
Have a nice day - Cheers
-
7th November 2007, 08:44 AM #25
Hi BobL
One thing I noticed in the photo's is NO clean up of the area to be welded removing paint etc makes for a cleaner start to the weld easier to get that first spark/arc.
One trick I was taught with hard to start rods is knock off a bit of the end of the rod Flux and its bonding agent. I either used a pair of pliers and just griped and turned a tiny fraction of the tip or run/drag/bounced the rod off some steel at the tip this gives metal to metal contact.
For shakey hands starting at intersections etc I place the side of the rod down past the weld joint and draw back slowly after dropping the helmet.
Being comfortable when practicing helps if your sitting down and the job is a stretch then your uncomfortable. If your stooping over its uncomfortable. Wait till your doing overhead welding lying down twisted and in a small space with just enough room to move.
The shudders n shakes I had when I first started welding was hammered out of me and I do mean hammered, the TAFE teacher & fellow I was working under would walk up behind those they were teaching and slam a hammer down while they were welding. talk about needing a change . After about 1/2 doz of these situations you got to be able to put it out of your mind and calm yourself so much so some of us wouldn't even hear the lunch hooter to intent on listening to that wonderfull sound of weld being deposited and the hum of the machine.
Ok I dropped my amps as recommended, using brand new 2mm rods and things have just gotten worse.
I'm now @ 55A (as shown on the welder scale) mainly because I'm now working on 1.2mm SHS - boy is this tricky stuff with just a stick machine.
Firstly its taking 6 - 10 attempts to strike an arc and then the poo factor has gone up significantly. They all now look like my first run or worse!
On a more positive note I haven't made anywhere near the number of holes as I have in the past using Grahames tip of keeping the rod oriented towards the thicker side. Excellent tip.
I think I might try 60A? I was using 65A on the 1.6 mm SHS.
Cheers
Are they similar rods type flux coating etc.
I am guessing they are, look at the tips of the rod and you'll see what I was saying above that resin and flux cover the tip and trying to weld through paint and oil on steel is not good.
-
7th November 2007, 08:54 AM #26
I went through that at TAFE WB when learning as did most of the class its an easy one to answer.
Larger rods and higher amps push the rod ( you have learned to be master of the rod not let it master you) you tense up or over relax.
To explain this the teacher showed how by resting the grip on his open palm and the higher amp rod would push it along danced off the metal due to the force of arc and ams. While the lighter amps and lighter rod just burnt holes. He taught us to change from one rod to the other changing amps on both and back again to get the feel and weight difference.
-
7th November 2007, 05:56 PM #27
Striking the Arc problems
OK guys i hear ya!
The problem
You have dropped the amps to suit the smaller diameter rod and the rotten basket won't arc properly.
.The solution
A bit of scrap plate adjacent (up to 100mm away) to the welding area that you can strike on -draw and arc - get the electrode warmed up so to speak - and then jump across to the to be welded area
and arc will run _( if amps are not too low).No pharting about now-while the rod end is still red hot -jump over-no trouble at all with your auto darkening shield.
No chunks of bird poo to make the bead look crap and no nasty words to shock the neighbors.
It will work - its all about technique.
trust me
Grahame
-
7th November 2007, 06:05 PM #28Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- perth
- Posts
- 169
if you have a inverter type machine revers the leads so you have + earth - electrode
this will make all the heat go into the earth so you will be able to run more amps they use this for full penertraltion on low hyg rods on pipe work, well thats what i was taught it will also leave the bead more raised so be prepared for more grinding
-
7th November 2007, 06:14 PM #29.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,756
-
8th November 2007, 10:40 AM #30
Similar Threads
-
Old grinding wheels
By Aerohydro in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 5Last Post: 5th August 2007, 10:18 PM -
grinding tools?
By John Saxton in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 13th February 2007, 11:51 PM -
My grinding rig...
By MathewA in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 4Last Post: 12th March 2005, 05:21 PM -
Grinding Wheel
By Babytoolman in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 18th January 2005, 06:29 PM -
Chisel Grinding Jig Templates
By OtakiriLad in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 1Last Post: 10th December 2004, 01:56 PM