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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
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    116

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    just an update, i've more or less solved the problem and it was a combination of everything- too much heat, too small a cup for the area i was welding (possibly getting some draft or airflow etc), tungsten and filler too big- i've since changed to 1.6 tungsten and filler, size 8 cup and turned the gas down to about 7-8lpm and i'm getting much better results. flat/corner welds are turning out sort of grey but still shiny mid-bead, and coloured on either end, and fillets are turning out shiny silver, golden, blue etc.

    now all i have to do is practice my tigging skills as it's been a while, and scratch tig is a different game to the HF start foot pedal controlled machines they have at tafe.

    just about finished my first fully tigged project which is a small side/coffee table to match the outdoor table i made last month, tomorrows job is to dress all the visible welds, mitre polish the corners and make the wood slat table




    it's so much easier to hammer/adjust things back to square with tig and 1.6 wall tubing as well, compared to stick welding 3mm tubing so this table is turning out 100% square and flat in all directions as opposed to the last one

    thanks for the help everyone!

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    77

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    Wow, that's awesome. Great looking welds and excellent table. makes me want to whip out a welder and make something

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    56
    Posts
    57

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    Gday
    Have you tried turning you gas down to 5 lpm
    thanks caveman

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    adelaide
    Posts
    26

    Default stainless tig gas

    isn't the one with a bit of oxy in it the go for stainless ( black band at the top)?

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NINGI Qld Australia
    Age
    68
    Posts
    210

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    Quote Originally Posted by old mate View Post
    isn't the one with a bit of oxy in it the go for stainless ( black band at the top)?
    Yeah I think for MIG process 2% Oxy 98% Argon is good,
    TIG process though 100% Argon I think is OK.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    725

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    Nice work Corgan - glad to see you've resolved the problem. Cheers - Mick

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Age
    45
    Posts
    175

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    Good stuff.

    To clean up your welds get hold of a stainless blending disc. They are a creamy white colour and are cellulose based. Give a very fine grind unlike a flap disc or grind wheel. Have an unusual smell about them. Do the main grind with a grind wheel then blend with the other, they are pricey though.

    To clean your stainless all over you can get a chemtech product called aluminium cleaner, it is phosphoric acid based and does a pretty good job. Don't leave it on too long and really wash it off. Wire wheel does a good job of removing the colour too though as you've done.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    116

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    thanks for the tips- i've never seen a stainless blending disc, can you elaborate further as to where you can find them etc?

    im currently using a 40grit flap disc to get most of the weld ground, then 80grit fiber sanding disc to blend, followed by 120 grit sanding disc then medium then fine non woven type disc before brush finishing with a wheel that chucks in a drill.

    i do notice i sometimes have to grind more than i'd like to fully blend which is more likely an issue with my welding or fitup

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Age
    45
    Posts
    175

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    I'll find out today what brand they are and where they come from. Normally though just any industrial supply house would have them.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NINGI Qld Australia
    Age
    68
    Posts
    210

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corgan View Post
    followed by 120 grit sanding disc then medium then fine non woven type disc before brush finishing with a wheel that chucks in a drill.

    Hey you probably know but make sure that is a Stainless Steel wire brush, test the bristles with a magnet if not sure. A regular steel wire brush will make your nice SS job rust

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    116

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    yeah, it is a stainless steel 125mm wire wheel for the grinder, as well as a SS hand brush. would hate to be so careful making something look pretty for a month lol

    thanks Ben- sounds like a useful product for future projects

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Age
    45
    Posts
    175

    Default

    Had a look at the ones at work, all it says is 'Made in USA' and safety/usage info.... no makers name nothing! I am fairly certain they came from Aitkens though so maybe just try a welding place and ask for a stainless blending disc

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    816

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    I bet the cup was the main issue. I remember battling away once exactly like you have described, couldnt get anything to work. bumped it up a cup size and bang...welded perfectly at all sorts of combinations of amps and gas flow etc.

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