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Thread: Welders - Difference Between?
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6th January 2005, 09:15 PM #16
Well from a total novice I can say that the only way I've managed to get two pieces of steel to stick together without frightening the Ka-Ka out of me was by using a gas-less MIg. Yes the consumables are expencive but if your not very good at welding (me) and only do it very rarly (me again) then this makes life so much easier.
For big jobs I get by Brother in Law who's a Boiler maker.
I would also like to add to other when they say dont skimp on safety stuff, and those magnetic clamps - work great mate.
Himzo.There's no such thing as too many Routers
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28th February 2005, 09:09 PM #17Originally Posted by echnidna
Cheers...........Sean the crusty slag
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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28th February 2005, 09:28 PM #18
Sean, They are OK for home workshop or occaisional welding. But if you burn two boxes a day forget it, well thats my experience anyway.
CheersSquizzy
"It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}
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1st March 2005, 08:15 PM #19
Thanks squizz, would only want it for v occasional home use so could be OK, will check them out sometime.
Cheers........Sean, who is auto darkening, just drop a router bit
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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1st March 2005, 10:32 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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I learnt to weld with a 'stick' arc welder, and eventually I could weld 18ga (1.2mm) sheet without blowing too many holes in the join. I had a bit of a windfall, so I bought a small MIG welder, just a basic one with 4 position switches. Also had years of fun, but I found I wasn't doing enough welding to justify paying CIG/BOC rent on the bottle and I'd nearly worn out the moving parts. So I'm back to a baby 10amp arc welder for odd jobs.
When buying a hobby level (10amp) welder, or even a 15 amp semi pro unit, keep an eye on the 'duty cycle' - in warm weather specially, you can over heat the electronics of the unit, and if its a good one, it will shut itself down for 30 mins or so until the heat dissapates, so you have time for a coldie. IF its a cheapie POS then the blue smoke comes out & it works no more. Some smaller welders have a fan assist for cooling.
Also look at how the amperage is adjusted - some are just a rocker switch for 'full' & 'half', others have an infinitely adjustable transformer (toroidal) over their whole range. If you are going to be welding thin stuff, say less than 3mm, get the infinitely variable.
I haven't given Oxy a go, but a mate is very good with it & swears by TIG welding, but doesn't care of MIG. It seems that 'stick' & MIG go together, as Oxy & TIG go together - Oxy/TIG is certainly quick to change from one type of metal to another, but I think Arc/MIG is easier to pick up.
When welding, try to avoid light coming from behind you - I did most of my work in an open fronted shed & I found working with back lighting to be a PITA as it became very hard to see what you were doing. Depending on the welding helmet you get, you may want a job spot light to see what you are doing & avoid welding the bench instead of the job ;-)
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11th March 2005, 05:19 AM #21New Member
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im looking to build a dune buggy and will be needing to weld on some engine mounts, a few suspension pieces some mounts and similar. possibly some tubing on the framework. what kind of welding would be best for that? and what kind of equipment would you suggest? amps? is there a portable one that could hook to a car battery/engine(like if the engine is running on the car)?
Thnx
Eric
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11th March 2005, 09:41 AM #22
Eric, crude emergency arc welders can be fashioned to run off a couple of car batteries for very short periods. Mig is the go for most things automotive. Hiring a small unit is probably your best option for all the reasons discussed above. After you have hired it, and if you like it, then you can keep an eye on the auctions for a secondhandy....what ever turns your crank.
Just a note on Tig and changing materials. Ferrous materials (stainless) require DC welding current and non ferrous (Ally) require AC welding current on tig machines. Therefore a good allrounder tig machine will be a transformer machine that provides AC, DC+ and DC- welding current. Somewhat more expensive.
CheersSquizzy
"It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}