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Thread: Bowdon saw
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28th May 2017, 11:20 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Bowdon saw
Picked this up for not much. Research tells me it's at least pre ww1, although not a particularly good saw.
I noticed the back of the saw is loose. Any recommendations for fixing this? ? Just a hammer?
Should the blade be tapered as it appears? As it is loose I can make it 'square' but the blade is barely in the back if I do that.
One of the fixing screws has been replaced by an undersize screw, so I'll try to improve that. And a sharpen, although it can cut Pine.
Any thoughts welcome.
Russ
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30th May 2017, 11:34 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Bowdon was a cheaper brand from Tyzack. However, it will still probably clean up to be a fine saw to use.
There is a thread over at Backsaw.net with some background.
Bowdon & Co information | backsaw.net
The spine needs aligning with the blade. You can see the clean line under the spine near the handle showing the original height.
If the spine comes off easily then it may make the blade easier to clean.
Gentle squeezing of the spine should re-tighten it. I'm not sure if it would be better to do this before or after re-fitting.
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30th May 2017, 06:39 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks!
Russ
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9th June 2017, 06:52 PM #4
Russ
As others have said your Bowden will come up quite nicely and be a very acceptable user saw. To clean the plate I take off the back. As yours is loose it will be easy as Hiroller says. To make a firm fit, which it should be, squeeze the jaws of the back gently in a vice until the metal just touches. Use a couple of timber jaw cushions if you are using an engineers vice with coarse jaws or it will imprint the back. There will still be a gap in the back near the top of the fold and you can attach the back by carefully hammering the back onto the saw plate with a soft faced hammer starting it in that gap. Leave the back high initially and then tap down until it is sitting correctly and parallel. Use timber or leather cushions in the jaws of your vice again if necessary to avoid scoring the saw plate.
The question of whether the plate should be parallel to the back is a contentious issue. It would appear that a few saws were deliberately manufactured with a tapered plate, but at least one major saw manufacturer (Disston) specifically states that the "taper" is a result of the saw being dropped or otherwise maltreated. I don't know if that is the case with your saw. If there is insufficient room to make the back parallel you may have to stick with the tapered plate.
We will look forward to seeing the results of your endeavours.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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16th June 2017, 08:03 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Paul, very detailed notes. My apologies for the late reply, it's been a busy week as my wife ended up in hospital last Saturday, and is still puzzling specialists all over Melbourne apparently..
Seems like it will be almost within my skill set to bring this saw back to life..
Russ
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16th June 2017, 08:31 PM #6
No problem Russ.
Life does not really revolve around hand saws even if some of us might like it to. Hope your wife recovers well even if the specialists still can't make a correct diagnosis. You might even be able to get the saw ready for her. I am sure she would be thrilled .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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23rd July 2017, 06:08 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Well, some progress... Cleaned, blade set into back, handle sealed.
Last issue is the missing screw.
I was hoping to remove the original and replicate it some how, it looks sort of like the old binder screws, but I can't remove it.
The hole in the blade seems a shade over 3.6mm or perhaps a #27 drill. The handle is I guess 3/4" thick.
Would any have a screw accessible to photograph for me?
Ps, wife is recovering well, it really was a very rare disease..
Russ
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24th July 2017, 09:49 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Ok, done some research and now I see how it works.. Looks like something doable..
Russ