Thread: Buckled Buck Saw

Hear your pain, but the some "......" may have been a child or an angry / vindictive partner


any chance that you could re-tension the blade?

Originally Posted by ian

Hear your pain, but the some "......" may have been a child or an angry / vindictive partner


any chance that you could re-tension the blade?

Ian,
I’m going to “attempt” a repair on the blade first so yep will try re-tensioning the blade.
I would love to give the blade a bit of heat but I’m afraid that’s not going to happen.
It does have a very slight oil can pop to it just notably, intercalating it’s been stretched in the area I marked [emoji849].

Cheers Matt.

Matt

Despite the problems with the saw I think that is still a good pick up and a good saw to "play" with. I would remove the back and then check the distortion in the plate. Clean any "proud" grime off the plate first as grit gets hit into the plate during sawsmithing. Then you can try to rectify the plate with your sawsmithing hammers. Go gently and steadily, but I feel sure you probably know more about that than I with your panel beating skills. Once you have put it back to straight you can clean and polish up the saw plate properly.

Seeing the name "Buck" and words beneath led me to believe it is the address and stands for Tottenham Court Road. There were several members of the Buck family involved with sawmaking, but that address seems to lay this one at the door of George Buck, who operated from Tottenham Court Road between 1839 and 1866. His wife may have carried on the business for a short period after that time as she too was listed as a saw maker. This I gleaned from Simon Barley's book. A saw featuring the same markings as your saw in Simon's book was dated c1840, although this is not conclusive.

I realise you have this book too, but suspect you are too busy to research and any spare time you do have is spent picking up little gems such as this. I think it will be well worth some effort. If the plate cannot be straightened, you may be able to either salvage from something else or go new. Do you have some specs (not for your eyes) such as ppi, length,depth and thickness of plate?

Regards
Paul

Matt

Just on that spot where some moron took to it with an ice pick, I doubt you will be able to remove that completely: There will always be some blemish. I think I would do some hammering and, if that was causing potential problems elsewhere, consider filing the proud side "flatter." I might even go back and forwards between the two methods. In terms of useability you need it to be perfectly smooth and flat each side. A dent in the metal is cosmetic.

While not ideal, it may be acceptable for a saw of this age. I am also assuming that you did not part with an arm and a leg for this item. Going on past experience of your purchases, possibly a nail clipping from your big toe?



Regards
Paul

Due to circumstances beyond my control,
A bloody [emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji875][emoji35].

Did more than just use a pick hammer there was also a notable kink towards the front.
The saw blade is dead RIP Buck.

But that’s ok,because I had a spare as you do [emoji1782].


Will put more up here, once I’ve finished in the hot container lost 5 kg all ready I reckon.

Cheers Matt,

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

Despite the problems with the saw I think that is still a good pick up and a good saw to "play" with. I would remove the back and then check the distortion in the plate. Clean any "proud" grime off the plate first as grit gets hit into the plate during sawsmithing. Then you can try to rectify the plate with your sawsmithing hammers. Go gently and steadily, but I feel sure you probably know more about that than I with your panel beating skills. Once you have put it back to straight you can clean and polish up the saw plate properly.

Seeing the name "Buck" and words beneath led me to believe it is the address and stands for Tottenham Court Road. There were several members of the Buck family involved with sawmaking, but that address seems to lay this one at the door of George Buck, who operated from Tottenham Court Road between 1839 and 1866. His wife may have carried on the business for a short period after that time as she too was listed as a saw maker. This I gleaned from Simon Barley's book. A saw featuring the same markings as your saw in Simon's book was dated c1840, although this is not conclusive.

I realise you have this book too, but suspect you are too busy to research and any spare time you do have is spent picking up little gems such as this. I think it will be well worth some effort. If the plate cannot be straightened, you may be able to either salvage from something else or go new. Do you have some specs (not for your eyes) such as ppi, length,depth and thickness of plate?

Regards
Paul

Paul,
You are spot on with your comments regarding the price I payed $20 Au.
Considering my behaviour last weekend you might consider me a saw thief [emoji849].

Thank you, for once again digging in to the bible of British saws,that prompted me to pull out my copy, seeing as we had a long over due weekend in the container palace this weekend.


I’m fairly certain the stamped back dates this saw to be to the earlier period ,but of course I can’t confirm this.
I’m pretty certain too ,that the stamp is actually referring to Tottenham Court Road London Uk.
(Bugger could have popped in and picked up a spare when I lived in the Uk around 2002 [emoji849].)
I think I read somewhere also that Buck tools didn’t actually produce the saws but just stamped them with there logo?.
They were mainly know for planes and files.


Note point, the back is massive, and heavy for a saw with a plate of just over 200 mm.

Ok ,some more pics for the true saw junkies .


So a plate just over 200 mm long, a thickness of 0.40 mm.
I would not bother thinking the teethe are original ,they are in a horrible state.
I’ve also decided ,I might just leave the handle as it is ,it’s nice just the way it is.

Finally ,the saw is sitting all done, I’ve filed it to 12 TPI cross cut but I sooooo out of practices.
Hence your getting an overview shot [emoji849]


Cheers Matt.

Matt

Less than 20 thou is quite thin. Did you manage to replace the plate with something similar?

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Matt

Less than 20 thou is quite thin. Did you manage to replace the plate with something similar?

Regards
Paul

Yes I did, I had just enough from when Dale ran is saw making workshop many many moons ago.

And thank you Paul for doing the conversion from metric to imperial![emoji849]

Originally Posted by Simplicity

...So a plate just over 200 mm long, a thickness of 0.40 mm....

Whaaaat???!!! You mean 8 inches.

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

...Less than 20 thou is quite thin.....

I'm pleased to see I'm not the only old git around here....

It's a shame the original plate was damaged, but I think you've done the best save possible. Nice saw.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Vann

Whaaaat???!!! You mean 8 inches.


I'm pleased to see I'm not the only old git around here....

It's a shame the original plate was damaged, but I think you've done the best save possible. Nice saw.

Cheers, Vann.

And the METRIC. imperial war rolls on decade after decade[emoji12].

Cheers Matt,

Apologies. I was not really being pedantic: It is just that I cannot visualise hand saws in anything other than imperial measurements. When Matt first put up the pic with the dial gauge my first thought was. Wow, that's thick even for a 28" hand saw. Then I saw the measurements in mm. I had to convert it back to check it made sense.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Apologies. I was not really being pedantic: It is just that I cannot visualise hand saws in anything other than imperial measurements. When Matt first put up the pic with the dial gauge my first thought was. Wow, that's thick even for a 28" hand saw. Then I saw the measurements in mm. I had to convert it back to check it made sense.

Regards
Paul

Paul,
I use a different gauge next time no need to apologise.
I use my non shock proof gauge[emoji23]next time[emoji12]




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Apologies. I was not really being pedantic...

I was (but intended humourously).

I work in both, but tend to prefer imperial for things designed in imperial measurements.

It all started years ago. Almost my first job after completing my apprenticeship included installing new heater ducts in a refurbed railway carriage. The ducts had to have cutouts around the feet of each seat. The blueprints said the cutouts had to be at multiples of 914mm. Okay so from the first cutout to the next was 914mm. The following cutout was at umm... oh yeah 1828mm. So the third was at...2700 and something, uh, 42 - so that's 2742mm .

About that point I turned the ruler over and found that 914mm is exactly 3' . That made it SO MUCH EASIER: 3', 6', 9', 12' .

So now if someone says something is a little over 200mm, I immediately think 8" - especially if it's something pre-metric like your saw.

Back on topic now...

Cheers, Vann.

Hi Matt,

that's a great little back saw that you (stole) and then were able to replace the damaged blade to bring it back to being a functional saw, that effort is worthy of at least two gold stars.

I also have come across an old Buck saw and thought it would be okay to slip it in here.

I'm known in our tool club to have a bit of an interest in saws, and every now and then another member will present me with a saw that I might be interested in and so the latest one is/was a

Buck 24" 9 ppi panel saw, it has had a long and hard working life and has been filed that much and so often that the blade is currently at 20" in length with a tooth line that is so wavy you don't
know if it is coming or going, and don't get me started about the number of left and right bends there are in the blade.

The stamp is similar to Matts back saw except, it is the Court that is abbreviated rather than the Tottenham.

But the handle although a bit on the dry side is still intact with both horns and still held firmly by its three split nut screws.

The last user of this saw made sure he got his full use of it though and I reckon it's a good example of a quality tool put to good use.

I'll give it a light clean and let it rest in a comfy corner of the work shop and admire it every now and then.

Graham