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9th May 2015, 04:33 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Help to restore Stanley 78 from around 1900s
Hi there,
Almost by accident I have received this old beauty that I would love to have back to it's earlier/functional condition (no rust and ready for work) but would appreciate any advice about how to do it without ruining its historic value.
I started using the wire wheel on the drill and then sanding it back but was worried about ruining the original japanning. It turned black anyway after the wheel.
Any advice about how to restore it properly? I thought about sandblasting ($50!) And figured it wasn't worth it as I would lose the paint too.
I was worried citric acid or vinegar would not be that effective, so before I got too far, I thought I would consult the experts [emoji6] !
Patrick's blood and Gore is great reference and there are a lot of American restorations but wanted to get an Australian perspective with the tools we have here...
Are you able to help please?
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9th May 2015 04:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th May 2015, 04:41 PM #2Intermediate Member
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- Jul 2014
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- Busselton, WA
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And another photo...
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9th May 2015, 08:19 PM #3
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11th May 2015, 10:16 AM #4
Three ways to remove the rust are electrolysis, molasses and citric acid.
There is some info on the forum on them or google them.
I may have a new blade somewhere if you want one.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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17th May 2015, 07:08 PM #5Member
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- Apr 2009
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- Wollongong
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A wire wheel will take off a surprising amount of steel, likely to be bad for threads and fine detail, my preference to deal with the rust is electrolysis, its fairly easy to set up (make sure you get the polarity the right way around and remember that it works on a straight lines between the anode and the cathode). I have an ancient battery charger to drive it and the rest of the assembly was a deep white bucket, steel bar and some wire from Bunnings. Washing soda and a low voltage seems to work best for several hours, followed by some polishing (a sisal mop and a cutting compound works for me) followed by a coat of oil.
The japan will flake off where it has rust under it, you may lose a fair bit of what is left, but there is not much you can do about that.
The blade looks fairly far gone, in places anyway, and getting it flat enough on the back edge to sharpen it properly could be interesting.
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12th August 2015, 12:40 AM #6
One method I use and swear by is the use of Lemon juice.
I also do use electrolysis for larger hand planes or tools.
Having done quite a few 78's with LJ...never needed to buy Evaporust @ 30 dollars a gallon.
But should add do have friends who swear by it.
Citric acid also is great and does the same as LJ...Vinegar, have had some metal loss with it and do not recommend it.
Here is a pic of a 78 clean up
78 and lemon juice (Large).jpg
Lemon juice runs about $1 a quart at the dollar store, they even sell containers there,
which a 78 will fit.
Edit: Make sure all the parts are covered by the juice.
Just leave the parts in the juice for about 8 to 10 hours, rinse with very hot water and soap.
Compress air or a hair dryer will help clear the water from the metal parts.
Scotch pad does help in the shine also, when cleaning the plane.
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13th August 2015, 12:47 PM #7Intermediate Member
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- Jul 2014
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- Busselton, WA
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- 38
That looks great cowboy and there are a lot of lemons ripening at the moment, perfect
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19th August 2015, 10:50 AM #8Senior Member
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- Sep 2011
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- Northern Beaches, Sydney
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- 329
I can vouch for the lemon juice method too. I've just de-rusted about twenty circular saw blades , half a dozen hand planes and a few other heavily rusted tools and they came up a treat. Sure there was pitting in a few places due to the rust but after a good scrub in hot soapy water with a scotch brite as acowboy says I was surprised how well some of them came up. The citric acid did attack some of the paint or Japanning on the planes though so you'd have to be judicious in how you used it.
Stewie
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19th August 2015, 11:38 PM #9
I should add to what Stewie has wrote.
What ever method you use to d-rust expect some japanning loss. Even Nickel plating also.
Unseen or not visible, is rust under the paint or plating.
That will explain the loss of japanning
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