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Thread: Three mitres.

  1. #16
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    I restored a #246 about 15 or so years ago ...









    The saw I found was a Stanley by Disston, but a modern one with a 24" x 4" plate ...



    I decided to re-shape it ...





    A few years later I managed to get the correct Disston saw, with a 5" depth of cut and 28" long plate ...



    Eventually I sold the #246 with the Stanley/Disston saw. The replacement 28" Disston is available for purchase (sharp teeth), if anyone is interested.

    I have since acquired Miller Falls mitre boxes.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    This saw is going to be a sticking point.
    I must do some more research.
    I'm sure it's from my younger mitre box saw.
    So ,the main problem I have with this saw is ,and do be fair it's not the saws fault or even Stanley tool works.
    It's who ever designed the handle in the first place
    Because ,when you look closely at the mitre box it self ,it has some redeeming features a few curves subtle but there there.
    See the handle is just butt ugly .
    Yes I can be a tool snoop and yes if I try really hard ,I may be able to sort out a hopefully well in my eyes more approachable

    Cheers Matt
    Matt

    I know what you mean. The handle does not invite you to grab it a bit like some parts of a ...... never mind. I suggest a man of your talents could make an excellent replacement and you might also take the opportunity to use four saw screws. There is really no right brand of saw other than it should be 24" long as the box manufacturers entered into agreements with most of the saw manufacturers. This means that you could subsititute a Disston pattern for example with four screws. There is one in this link as well as three hole versions. You could also simply use the existing pattern and saw screws with a beautiful timber:

    http://www.tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I restored a #246 about 15 or so years ago ...









    The saw I found was a Stanley by Disston, but a modern one with a 24" x 4" plate ...



    I decided to re-shape it ...





    A few years later I managed to get the correct Disston saw, with a 5" depth of cut and 28" long plate ...



    Eventually I sold the #246 with the Stanley/Disston saw. The replacement 28" Disston is available for purchase (sharp teeth), if anyone is interested.

    I have since acquired Miller Falls mitre boxes.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thank Derek,
    Just the kind of inspiration I need,
    And thanks for finding the pics.
    Did you re shape the handle for comfort or ascetics.
    Also if I may inquire,you sold the 246 and brought a Miller Falls Mitre box?


    Cheers Matt,
    I also now vaguely remember reading your website years ago, and I think you had a piece on your restoration of the Stanley mitre box?

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Matt

    I know what you mean. The handle does not invite you to grab it a bit like some parts of a ...... never mind. I suggest a man of your talents could make an excellent replacement and you might also take the opportunity to use four saw screws. There is really no right brand of saw other than it should be 24" long as the box manufacturers entered into agreements with most of the saw manufacturers. This means that you could subsititute a Disston pattern for example with four screws. There is one in this link as well as three hole versions. You could also simply use the existing pattern and saw screws with a beautiful timber:

    http://www.tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html

    Regards
    Paul
    Paul,
    If we could discuss the concept of four screws instead of three,
    I would appreciate that instead of attempt of "grabbing" lol my thread and throwing it of course.

    Cheers Matt,

  6. #20
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    Did you re shape the handle for comfort or ascetics.
    Also if I may inquire,you sold the 246 and brought a Miller Falls Mitre box?
    Hi Matt

    The handle of the Stanley/Disston was re-shaped for both comfort and aesthetics. The original (from the 60s) was just awful.

    Yes, I now have a MF #74C (the large one) with a 30" x 5 1/2" saw plate (original). Plus a MF #115 (the small one) ...



    Here is the "restoration" (more like rebuild) I did of the #115, along with the 14" x 2 1/2" plate saw I built for it. This is the size of the original saw.


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #21
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    So this afternoon I arrive back at our Melbourne home from work.
    To find a very happy and chirpy wife.more so than normal!
    Quick quick come here and have a look at this.
    Sally ,unfortunately sometimes is on the receiving end of me ,moaning and pining for workshop while stuck in Melbourne.
    For those who don't know me my workshop is an 1 1/2 half away from were we reside in Melbourne.
    This is were it gets CUTE very CUTE.
    Sally off her own accord ,has hacked my email account well actually we share that one so not so much a hack.
    And has seen some of my forum correspondents .
    Knows that I was working on that old tool thing.(mitre box)
    And printed all this off for me.

    How lucky am I ,first she puts up with my weird little interest then she actively helps out.

    Cheers Matt.

  8. #22
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    I wasn't going to mention the picture framer, but seeing as how Sally has introduced the spectre your honour.....

    Millmerran Saw Exhibition 002.jpg

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    I wasn't going to mention the picture framer, but seeing as how Sally has introduced the spectre your honour.....

    Millmerran Saw Exhibition 002.jpg

    Regards
    Paul
    Will you look at that saw handle!! Paul I'm very happy for you off all people to mention other things [emoji41].
    That's a very nice saw and saw handle you have there.

    Cheers Matt

  10. #24
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    Matt

    There is a little bit of a story behind that saw. We have a small area in our local library, not much more than an alcove really, but each month it is set up with a small exhibition, which could be anything from photography to paintings to... well...hand saws. That particular month they were short of suitable exhibitors so I volunteered some old saws. They reluctantly said, oh alright. When I came to set up three mitre boxes with saws it became apparent that not all saws will fit. The larger boxes will accept saws with less back, but not the other way around. For example, I was looking at the Stanley catalogues last night and the 246 for over fifty years up until the mid fifties only used a 24" saw with 4" under the back. I expect a longer or shorter saw can be fitted.

    My saw with five inches under the back (you can see the handle of it and the information board at the left of the pic) would not fit in the framer, the 2286 or the No.150 (actually I may not have tried it in the 150 as it would have just looked silly,; out of proportion). At the time I did not have three mitre saws with 4" under the back restored, but I did have one with a "dicky" handle. So I cast that aside and quickly made up the handle you see there. At the time I was a little fixated on handles with a lambs tongue so that is what I did. Today, knowing exactly what handle should be on there, I would just replicate the original style. Simonds only made two models of saw that had a lambs tongue style: The early No.9 and the early No.10. Both of these from 1900 to about 1906.

    This was the exhibition and there is a pic or two of the mitre boxes.

    Exhibition of Hand Saws

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #25
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    Paul
    I now remember reading that thread and just had a quick review.


    Tho I'm still struggling to understand the difference between 4 inches and 5 inches [emoji849] under the back.

    Cheers Matt

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Paul,
    If we could discuss the concept of four screws instead of three,
    I would appreciate that instead of attempt of "grabbing" lol my thread and throwing it of course.

    Cheers Matt,
    Matt

    I missed this question.In theory, more saw screws mean that a saw is less likely to become loose, which is contrary to the same situation with people . Generally a larger numbers of saw screws was reserved for the more expensive models and the larger models. With back saws and mitre saws Simonds never used more than three screw,s but Disston on their larger mitre saws used four screws. Just a security measure really.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Matt

    I missed this question.In theory, more saw screws mean that a saw is less likely to become loose, which is contrary to the same situation with people . Generally a larger numbers of saw screws was reserved for the more expensive models and the larger models. With back saws and mitre saws Simonds never used more than three screw,s but Disston on their larger mitre saws used four screws. Just a security measure really.

    Regards
    Paul
    Paul,
    I agree with you a hundred percent here.
    From a mechanical point of view yes more screws the better.
    With regard to the human race,I do which sometimes natural selection was less passive [emoji849].

    Cheers Matt

  14. #28
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    Ok


    What is the best way to replace these rivets.
    I intend to to remove the rivets to remove the makers plate.
    One ,so I can restore the plate,also so I can paint the frame completely,ie behind the plate as well.
    Removing the rivets will not be such an issues
    Centre punch them ,drill the core out, till I can crumble the remaining walls left of the rivet(imploded it).
    Making the new rivets is not a problem,but were I come stuck is re riveting them in place.
    This is something I've never done,I've never had to deal with a solid rivets before[emoji849].
    In case it's suggest by un desirables no I won't pop river them in place either,
    Should I just use a drop of Lock tight,
    Or can someone suggest something else being mindful I don't want to crack the casting.

    Cheers Matt

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post

    Tho I'm still struggling to understand the difference between 4 inches and 5 inches [emoji849] under the back.

    Cheers Matt
    Matt

    Just the depth of saw plate under the spine. There were also versions with 6" under the back and mitre boxes to suit. These were the Nos.360 and 460. (Umm. Just twigged to the emogi!!)

    I have never done that style of riveting, but I imagine it would not take much to pein the back of the rivet over with a small hammer. Don't miss and tap gently. Your metal working skills will be useful.

    Regard
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    With back saws and mitre saws Simonds never used more than three screw,s but Disston on their larger mitre saws used four screws.
    My 26” Atkins mitre was has three screws.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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