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Thread: Three mitres.

  1. #31
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    Thanks Colin

    Atkins also only used three saw screws on their mitre saws.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #32
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    Use a ball pein hammer. Just make sure the head end of the rivet is well supported on a hard surface. Probably wouldn’t hurt to have someone support the mitre body so you can concentrate on rounding the rivet end with the ball.
    We were taught to go around the rivet using a very slight swiping motion as you struck the rivet, working gradually outwards from the centre. You don’t need much of a “flare” as the rivet will expand in the hole as well.

  4. #33
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    I don’t think they will be solid rivets that are peened over. They will be blind rivets with the helical thread on the outside or hollow rivets that are roll deformed on the back.

    Have to see the backside to know.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  5. #34
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    A quick look behind should reveal what type of rivet it is.
    Dale is on the right track although I have seen solid rivets use on this era of tools also.
    For a round head rivet such as this there would normally be a die held over the head with a backing iron (or dolly) held over it while the non visible side is peeled over. Should be a cinch for you.

  6. #35
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    Well this evening I arrived back at the creative zone, for a small dose of R AND R.
    Ie I’m back to Melbourne tomorrow but well there’s a little game changer with the 246 Mitre box.
    It’s actually not a 246 Mitre box it’s a Sweetheart 246 Mitre box I’m a happy little chappie tonight.
    So the rivets were flattened off with a small flat file,centre punched and drilled out.
    I had every indention off stripping the makers plate back to brass and re painting in black, then re exposing the indents.
    But I thought I just give it a quick 0000 steel wool first for some reason.
    Well it’s staying the way it is, job done on this one.
    Just have to try and explain to Sally there’s two sweethearts in my live now.
    It’s 2018 she understand.



    Cheers Matt

  7. #36
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    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263696778839

    Just saw this pop up on my Ebay, tho I suspect I’ve possibly only just noticed it.

    But this is not a gloat but I’ve never payed more than $100 AU.
    Have I just got lucky or have prices risen that much since I’ve been busy in my creative zone restoring mine[emoji849].

    Cheers Matt

  8. #37
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    Matt

    Prices vary considerably and I think that box and saw is from a dealer. They ask considerably more than a private seller, partly because they have more idea of the rarity and value and partly because it is a business and they are aiming for a certain level of profit. Also, just because it is up for sale at that price, it does not mean they are going to sell it for that. A sale is not a sale until you have the money.

    The prices you have bought at are very good buys.

    Your mitre box identification plate cleaned up particularly well and with the added bonus .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #38
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    The prices you have bought at are very good buys.


    This is never ever ever never to be explained to Sally.
    She would have me shackled to my bench with a Dog bowl for nourishment.
    Scrubbing old tools with worn out bits of emery paper till my mits bleed WD40.
    So she thinks she can sell them on on EBAY at 1000% profit.

    Cheers Matt.

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263696778839

    Just saw this pop up on my Ebay, tho I suspect I’ve possibly only just noticed it.

    But this is not a gloat but I’ve never payed more than $100 AU.
    Have I just got lucky or have prices risen that much since I’ve been busy in my creative zone restoring mine[emoji849].

    Cheers Matt
    Asking is one thing. Getting is another.

    I sold my restored #246 plus 24" Stanley-Disston (like new) saw, all for $175. That was about all the market would bear. Was it worth more? I reckon $250 at best, and because of the saw. Stanley #246 is not one of the desirable mitreboxes.

    On the other hand, the Miller Falls #74C is so much better that it is in a different class altogether. The 28" saw has 5 1/2" under the back and was sharpened for me by one of the "experts" in the USA before it arrived. The combination could not be found in Australia and, if for sale, would reach at least $550.

    That is not as valuable as my LF #15 1/2 plus new 16" saw. Good luck finding one. The combination is occasionally available in the USA for around a grand.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Asking is one thing. Getting is another.

    I sold my restored #246 plus 24" Stanley-Disston (like new) saw, all for $175. That was about all the market would bear. Was it worth more? I reckon $250 at best, and because of the saw. Stanley #246 is not one of the desirable mitreboxes.

    On the other hand, the Miller Falls #74C is so much better that it is in a different class altogether. The 28" saw has 5 1/2" under the back and was sharpened for me by one of the "experts" in the USA before it arrived. The combination could not be found in Australia and, if for sale, would reach at least $550.

    That is not as valuable as my LF #15 1/2 plus new 16" saw. Good luck finding one. The combination is occasionally available in the USA for around a grand.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Yes very good point Derek,
    Regarding asking and receiving,
    I regularly ask my wife if I may retire early even being slightly deaf I’ve never once seen her lips move or heard her say a word.
    And they say picture tells a thousand words.

    Derek I would be interested in hearing why you think the Millers falls mitre box is the better box to own.
    Never having seen one in the flesh so to speak
    or should that be cast iron.
    And only having seen on line pics and few comments here and there about them.
    Also considering I’ve yet to use a Stanley 246 Mitre Box in anger either(hopefully soon to be rectified lol).
    Well actually I did have a tiny little play with it before stripping it down and the saw is very blunt.

    Cheers Matt,

  12. #41
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    Well at the end of play today after considerable wire brush work.
    Followed by some extremely non creative spray paint work done with rattle can gloss black from super cheap auto.
    I’m left with tinsel town work shop in glories glossy black my favourite non colour.


    The parts board is looking less crowded too.
    The end is close[emoji849].


    Cheers Matt

  13. #42
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    Hi Matt

    You ask whether the Miller Falls #74C is better than the Stanley #246. The fact is, both are carpenter tools. That is, they came before chop saws and were the tool of choice for skirtings and other large mouldings. They are too large for most of the work in a furniture maker's workshop, as in my experience. In most cases this is down to the saw, which generally are filed with teeth that are too large and tear at at the wood. The mitrebox that is better in all areas, is the small MF #15 1/2. The saw I built is a copy of the original, and is 16" long (compared with 28-30" of the larger mitreboxes) and filed 13 tpi crosscut. The saw plate is also relatively slim, the same as the average dovetail saw, where the larger saws have thicker plates and larger teeth, typically 10 tpi. There is no reason why you could not go to a much higher tpi with the larger saw. That should make a big difference.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Hi Matt

    You ask whether the Miller Falls #74C is better than the Stanley #246. The fact is, both are carpenter tools. That is, they came before chop saws and were the tool of choice for skirtings and other large mouldings. They are too large for most of the work in a furniture maker's workshop, as in my experience. In most cases this is down to the saw, which generally are filed with teeth that are too large and tear at at the wood. The mitrebox that is better in all areas, is the small MF #15 1/2. The saw I built is a copy of the original, and is 16" long (compared with 28-30" of the larger mitreboxes) and filed 13 tpi crosscut. The saw plate is also relatively slim, the same as the average dovetail saw, where the larger saws have thicker plates and larger teeth, typically 10 tpi. There is no reason why you could not go to a much higher tpi with the larger saw. That should make a big difference.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek,
    To use my forum name too it’s fullest .
    You have made your mitre box more user friendly in the home work shop and that is not to say your work is DIY it’s far from that by building and using a more refined saw.
    Simplicity in its self lol
    You are right ,the mitre boxes of the day were for carpentry but,they would have been used for home “furniture”as you pointed out but back then this was a skill for only the refined carpenter.
    Not the local chippy who was quick on D8 at knocking up frames.

    Cheers Matt

  15. #44
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    Well today was another productive day in the cool room, aka creative zone.
    I don’t think it got much above freezing in Ballarat and I’m not a fan of winter[emoji41].
    Main frame put back together with some light head scratching.
    I’m very happy to have smart phone technology, thus I took some pics before I tore it apart many ciders ago.
    These were very, very,handy today when resembling the swivel arm.
    But what was even more handy was having a second mitre box to view.
    There was one little thingy bob thing, I could not find a home for un till I pulled the second box off the shelf for a good look.
    I know I’m a snob.
    For a few moments there I was sweating lol.

    But there we have it with an upright just for show.
    Plus the under neither workings.


    Next a bit of New Guinea rose wood was pulled from the shelf,because it was roughly the right size and thickness and that being the whole reason why I choose such a piece of timber.
    It was cut, shaped,sanded to 320,grit yep I went that high and given a generous drink of boiled linised oil.
    And I think it’s looking pretty good even if I say so my self.

    Now I have question,this particular saw came with a length sawing stop attachment.

    But I’ve noticed when all assembled back together and there’s no way It could be assembled any other way so my stupidity is out of the equation I think[emoji849].
    It raises the main frame off the bench by about 2/3 mm ???
    Seems odd I would have assumed they would have both sat both on the bench.


    Cheers Matt,
    Sorry no editor tonight, she said no and a rude word[emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849].

  16. #45
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    Looks very niCe.

    Given the holes in the feet it could have had some leather pads, or levelling bolts. Or maybe they were just for screwing it permanently to a bench, but that doesn’t make it very portable on site.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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