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  1. #1
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    Default Perms blue for saw etch

    Just been doing a little reading on restoring hand saws.
    And was wondering has any body tried here, bringing the etch back up a bit using Perma blue.
    I appreciate on a heavily rusted saw plate this is going to be ni on impossible.
    If a lot scrapping and sanding is involved to remove the rust.
    But with saw plates that are not so far gone, have you had success did you use perma blue.
    Or have you had results with other products process.

    Cheers Matt.


    I meant to say Perma blue lol in heading

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I thought you wanted the blue hair dye and rollers grannies use.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I thought you wanted the blue hair dye and rollers grannies use.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm not quite that old yet lol

  5. #4
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    Any of the cold bluing agents will work if there's enough depth to the etch remaining Matt.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    Any of the cold bluing agents will work if there's enough depth to the etch remaining Matt.
    Thanks Rob,
    I was hoping you would pop up with advice.
    But I think I really just needed reassurance.

    Cheers Matt

  7. #6
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    Try rubbing the bluing agent on the blade, use a couple of coats. If it looks like you can see some lettering wrap a pine block in ~300 grit wet and dry with some light oil or WD40 for lube and gently sand off the excess and see if the etch remains visible. If it does sand back the excess, wipe dry with some solvent to remove the oil and then play a propane torch flame over the highlighted etch to increase the contrast, heat causes the bluing to darken. You can heat it until it gets just hot enough to be unpleasant to hold bare handed. Lather rinse repeat till you get it like you want it.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    Try rubbing the bluing agent on the blade, use a couple of coats. If it looks like you can see some lettering wrap a pine block in ~300 grit wet and dry with some light oil or WD40 for lube and gently sand off the excess and see if the etch remains visible. If it does sand back the excess, wipe dry with some solvent to remove the oil and then play a propane torch flame over the highlighted etch to increase the contrast, heat causes the bluing to darken. You can heat it until it gets just hot enough to be unpleasant to hold bare handed. Lather rinse repeat till you get it like you want it.
    Will do thank Rob

    Cheers Matt

  9. #8
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    A while back I bought a product to enhance the etch. It was a liquid for ageing brass (try not to get it on yourself; It's bad enough getting old as it is ). It does work in much the same way I think as your blueing agent does, but remember it fills the slight depression left by the etching process. In practice this means that any void or depression will get filled. This results in any minor pitting also becoming enhanced and consequently more noticeable.

    Consequently I have gone away from doing this. Certainly with the brass darkening product I feel it makes the etch area look smudgy as even the slight marks from the original taper grinding become more prominent.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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