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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I like the bluer color of the two.
    Me too. But I've started with the grey now, and I'll stick with it. I have picked out the handle on the Feed Wheel and the knob on the Pawl in black. I'm considering some pin-striping in black or gold on the main casting as well. I'm not one for overly tarting-up such tools, especially if I know the original colours, but I'll almost certainly pick out the lettering.

    Since buying a Silver post drill last month, I've notice a few Silvers on vintagemachinery.org with a lot of silver paint. On that basis I should paint my Green River drill green I suppose

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #17
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    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I should paint my Green River drill green I suppose

    Cheers, Vann.
    There is a paint colour called "green river" Walmart 93313 Green River Match | Paint Colors | Myperfectcolor

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I have both couplers - well sort of - I left the second one at my brother's (it rolled under the bed ). He's going to post it to me (one day ).
    So finally, FINALLY, after months of nagging, the second coupler arrived in the post today.

    I knew the casting was broken...

    Balls6XL.jpg

    ...but I didn't envisage the mess the thrust bearing was in. Of the ten ball bearings, 5 look fine, 3 have flats, 1 resembles a moon rock, and one has completely disintergrated. The top and bottom "races" are damaged beyond reuse and the spacer disc is also distorted.

    Fortunately that was my spare parts drill. I now have ten (well 14 actually) useable ball bearings and can continue reassembly of the drill.

    Ds16HL.jpg the coupler from the first drill - with just one munted ball bearing

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #19
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    Default Reassembly

    This is how the drill looked last Wednesday (17th)...

    Paint3ML.jpg
    Frame fully painted. The lettering is picked out in Copperhead colour metallic paint (yeah, yeah, I know it looks pink ).

    A touch I like are the square nuts – looks the period – unfortunately I only have three of them (the 4th is hex.)

    A week later it looks like this...

    2ML.jpg Nearly there.


    Flywheels: The flywheel that came with the first No.61 is a very nice casting. Unfortunately three of the four spokes have hairline cracks and I’m scared that the stresses of use might cause the fourth to break, and the flywheel to disintergrate.

    FwA3HM.jpgFwA4HM.jpg Note the crack in the bottom spoke and beside the "A156" on the left-hand spoke. It's less visible where I scratched away the paint on the top spoke.

    I’ve put it aside pending repair.

    Instead I stripped and repainted the flywheel off my second No.61. It is a dog of a casting. The two halves of the mould did not line up, and there are voids/slag inclusions.

    Fw1HL.jpgFw3HL.jpg Note the very "un-round" shape of the rim (1st photo), and the misalignment of the two halves of the spoke (2nd photo)

    Still, it’s complete and intact…

    A few other issues have come to light with:
    • Crank handle clamping bolt;
    • Auto-feed pawl;
    • Chuck bolt;

    But it's time for bed...

    Cheers for now, Vann
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #20
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    Default Issue #1: Crank Handle Clamping Screw

    The ⅜” 16tpi (BSW or UNC?) set screw that locks the crank handle has stripped the thread in the crank cog – well it slips if I put any pressure on it. I was considering tapping it out to either 7/16” BSW (14tpi) or ½“ BSW (12tpi). ½” seems a bit big, but 7/16” might not have enough bite.

    On closer inspection it appears that the clamping screw only barely engages with the crank lever. The clamping screw is off centre and there is so much slack in the lever holes in the casting that it is almost possible to avoid clamping the lever at all.

    Crank1HL.jpg With crank handle removed - note the set screw is offset.
    Crank2HL.jpg With crank handle fitted - note the slot is almost wide enough for 2 crank handles!

    It may be a better option to drill through from the opposite side and tap ⅜” BSW (there looks to be sufficient clearance from the cam). Any opinions?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    The answer depends on restoration/preservation vs function in my opinion.

    Drilling a new hole is the functional but not preserving how it was. You could get a piece of flat bar slide it through the slot in the cog and fold the ends down so it can't slide out. The the crank arm slides in on top and raises it closer to the centre line of the bolt. Again you are modifying it by retapping the whole a different size.

    If you drill a new hole it still wont solve the sloppy slot!…………..Nobody likes a sloppy slot.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  8. #22
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    Default Auto-feed Pawl

    The rivet holding the pawl to the auto-feed arm was bent. I removed it and straightened it. Next I was going to heat it red hot and rivet it over.

    But a trial fitting shows a problem.

    PawlUHL.jpg View with pawl held in the engaged position.
    PawlDHL.jpg View with pawl released. Gravity causes the heavier side to drop.

    The counterweight on the pawl is nowhere near heavy enough. It won't rotate the pawl to engage the notches on the feedwheel.

    So I looked on the web.

    CanBl&Forge61c.jpgCanBl&Forge61b.jpgTwo views of other Canadian Blower & Forge No.61 pawls

    BuffaloForgeNo61z.jpgBuffaloForgeNo61c.jpg Two views of the (supposedly) identical Buffalo Forge No.61 pawl.

    Each has a counterweight slightly longer and much heavier than the pawl itself. So mine is unique - and doesn't work.
    Frankly, I'm apawled .

    Not sure what to do here?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  9. #23
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Your photos aren't working for me
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  10. #24
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Your photos aren't working for me
    They weren't showing for me either - but I could click on the link. I've removed all photos and reattached a reduced number.

    They show for me now.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #25
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Apawlling

    Maybe you can braze a ball bearing on the end?? Like I said earlier the pawls are most commonly broken.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  12. #26
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    Sep 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    The answer depends on restoration/preservation vs function in my opinion.
    I'd really like to keep this drill original - but - I don't think that's an option. Firstly, it has the broken (repaired roughly) main frame. Then it has no table, and the chances of finding an authentic CB&F No.61 table (without buying a whole drill) is not good - although possible. My next post was to be about a small modification to the chuck (not by me). And now it looks like I have a modified pawl .

    So an authentic restoration is not a viable option at this stage. Preservation (as in preventing further deterioration) and function are probably the options I have at present.

    The crank is not usable as it is (the crank handle comes loose and becomes a minor hazard), so I would have to have the hole cast iron welded closed, then redrilled and tapped the original size. If I tap it a larger size now, that will not prevent a more authentic repair at a later date - should enough other parts come to hand to allow a genuine restoration.

    I like your idea of a flat bar packer in the slot. That would enable me to re-use the existing bolt hole - albeit tapped to a larger size.

    I certainly intend to restore my Silver Mfg Co. No.14 as authentically as possible - but that's another project.

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74
    ..Nobody likes a sloppy slot.
    What can I say that won't get me into trouble?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #27
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    Default

    While pondering on the subject of the truncated pawl, I checked out the pawl on my Dawn post drill - Dawn post drills seem to be loosely based on the Buffalo/Canadian Blower designs, and many of the principle dimensions are the same (they even use the same numbering system).

    The rivet holding the pawl on the Dawn was also slightly bent and sloppy, so off it came too.

    So - as a strictly temporary arrangement (like for not more than say 5 years ) - I have attached the Dawn pawl to the CanB&F auto-feed arm with an M6 bolt and nyloc nut - and now it works

    PawlHM1.jpg PawlHL2.jpg

    Not only can I select one, two or three notches per revolution, but it even stretches out to four notches - easily.

    One thing to watch though - I was merrily cranking away, watching the pawl ratchet to and fro, when I came to the end of the feed. I can see that a lot of damage could occur if I was cranking a bit harder or faster .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #28
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    Default Issue #3 - Chuck Screw

    I guess this one isn't really a problem - it's just a suspected mod I'd prefer not to have.

    The bolt that tightens the bit in the chuck is not original. It is hex headed, and ½” 20tpi (therefore most likely ½“ UNF) cut to length badly – the cut was 5°-10° off square. Sorry, forgot to take pics. I have ground and filed it to a slightly better shape.

    I suspect that it's not just the bolt, but that the threaded hole was also some other thread orgininally.

    So I checked the spindle of my second No.61 - ⅝" 11tpi (therefore ⅝" BSW or UNC). Daggnabit that's not right either.

    Finally I checked my Dawn 611 - ⅜” 16tpi (⅜” BSW or UNC). That's more like it.

    I'm not an engineer, but a ½” bolt tightening a ½” shank doesn't seem right (and the ⅝" bolt is way OTT).

    Oh well, at least it works.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #29
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    Default More on chuck screw thread size

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I'm not an engineer, but a ½” bolt tightening a ½” shank doesn't seem right.
    Wanting to research the possible size for the chuck bolt a little further, I remembered three more blacksmith’s drill chucks in my possession: my Wiley & Russell No.741 post drill, my Silver Mfg Co. No.14 post drill, and a Goodell-Pratt No.308 automatic chain brace.

    The Wiley & Russell chuck has two bolts 180° apart (each with a different head). They both measure ø½” but the smaller one is 13tpi (UNC) while the larger is 12tpi (BSW) and somewhat munted. I wonder if both holes are 13tpi and someone has hamfistedly forced a 12tpi bolt into one?

    WRcblt4HL.jpg Before cleaning. WRcblt5HL.jpg After cleaning.

    The Silver chuck, like my second CB&F No.61, has a ⅝" 11tpi thread (⅝" BSW or UNC).

    The Goodell-Pratt chuck has a tiny 5/16” 18tpi square headed set screw, which looks to be original.

    In conclusion: I suspect ø½” is not too big for the clamping bolt after all.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #30
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    Default

    I haven't progressed this post drill much in recent months - even though it's supposed to be my user . Except...

    The adjuster bolt, to set the pawl to 1, 2 or 3 (or 4) notches of the feedwheel, has been this old square head bolt - which slops around in the casting like the proverbial floppy thing in a sock .

    PawlHM1.jpg The thread appears to be 3/8" BSW, but the bolt is a bit undersize at 9.15mm dia.

    The best picture I could find of the correct adjuster bolt for this post drill is this one.

    BuffaloForgeNo61_ca_detailautofeedratchet_P8260017.jpg This is a Buffalo Forge No.61 - but Canadian Blower & Forge was their Canadian branch, and it looks to be the same component across both plants.

    I printed the picture, and scaled off it using a known dimension (the thread size), then rounded all resulting dimensions to the nearest imperial size. This resulted in a bolt 2" long, including the head 3/4" dia. x 3/8" long. The unthreaded length of shank is 1/4". A friend made up a new bolt for me, and with a thread diameter of 9.45mm it fits the threaded hole like a glove.

    CBF61ajML.jpg CBF61ajHL.jpg I don't know why my camera sometimes makes that grey look so blue

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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