Thread: Power Hacksaw pics.

I wont be firing it up with that motor ,its three phase ,I don't have three phase power ,if I was still working for the power authority I would though.
It s a hack saw not a band saw btw .I've started stripping it down ,have the saw frame off , the beam and have the vice bars cleaned up and filed the grooves out that the sliding jaw locks in . Have a small crack to repair where the blade holder pin is in the saw frame .I'll do this with metal spray and my Eutectic Super jet torch.
Looks like some one has had this apart some time ago and have done some repairs on the hydraulic pump.It looks as if one of the pistons driven by the eccentrics off the main shaft has punched the bum out of the pump body ,it has been welded up ,but I can't see too much down inside as I need to remove the big drive gear to get the rest of it apart.

I sent an e-mail to the owners of the company that made it but no reply.No reply from the guy on ebay either.

Kev.

Nice unit.

I had one the same, I have looked, I have a few photos, but I cant find them, sorry. If I come across them I will post them here. Let us know how you go with it. I wish I kept mine. I used to have to move it due to space constraints. After moving it a few times I got sick of it and sold it.

The were a great saw, but I was never able to find fine enough blades for it, and mine never fed properly. The hydraulic pumps were very worn.

Let us know how it goes,
Ross.

Ross ,
It's going great I have nearly completed the restoration .I have to do a couple of small cast iron welding repairs .The biggest job still to do is repair the broken guard and make a complete outer door for it.
I also have to strip the drive shaft assembly and check out the bearings .Who ever owned it before was very liberal with the grease so all the running parts are in good condition.
I have had the pump completely stripped down and replaced the seals on the pistons and the big jack shaft .
The jack shaft seals are an odd sized O-ring ,I have put some in but I don't know if they will work until I fire it up.
I havent been able to find any info on this saw , (model no etc ) so any help would be greatly appreciated .
It looks good in its new paint job ,not original , but I dont really care .
I have some 14 blades for it .I think it will take 15" and 16 " as well but I have never seen those larger sizes.
Will take so in progress pics and post them .

Kev.

Well here are some more pics .

I noticed the bow had a crack where the pin for the saw blade is mounted so I decided to repair it .
Also where the bolt that clamps the moveable vice jaw has been tightened up over the years it has formed a crater in the cast material which has pushed through to the vertical hole where the vice bolt lives and had seized the jaw onto the bolt.
I decided to repair this as well.
Pic 1 is the scarfed out crack
Pic 2 is the prepared spot on the vice jaw.
Pic 3 & 4 is the torch I use for cast iron welding and repair work .It is a Eutectic Super Jet ,it uses metal powder ,and is used similar to an oxy torch when used for normal oxy acetylene welding of steel.
You can see the 2kg bottle of metal powder to the left of the kit ,that bottle of powder costs over $500.00 buckaroos ,so it is used sparingly

Kev,

After prepping the areas to be repaired the torch is set up and a small bottle of powder is set onto the torch .The metal powder is applied by pressing a lever on top of the torch handle.
The area is preheated to a blue colour and then a light spray of powder is applied to act as a surface coat .
Once the surface coat is applied then it is heated to red hot and the spray applied as you form a puddle and run the spray and the parent metal together.Once the area has been filled ,switch off the torch and remove the powder hopper.
The cast iron has some oil in it and this came out while the piece was hot and caused a couple of holes ,the trick here is to keep it red hot and allow the holes to get bigger so all the contaminants escape., then go back over and fill them while the metal is liquid.Hard to do with a stick welder.
I wanted to take pics of the actual welding process but it is difficult trying to use the torch and the camera at the same time.
As you can see in my haste to finish this project I had already primed the bow for painting .
Not much paint got damaged and a quick clean up with the power wire brush fixed it .
Pic 1 the repaired crack after some initial dressing with the grinder
Pic 2 the completed repair on the vice Jaw.
Pic 3 the finished repair after some filing and reaming of the hole back to original size

Now to the rest of the project ,the saw is painted with an epoxy enamel which will give a tough finish ,
Most of the main part is finished , I machined the nuts for the vice clamps to get rid of the dog ears from years of abuse and machined a washer under the nut to stop binding when tightening.
The hydraulic pump has been over hauled and new seals fitted to the two pistons and the jack shaft .
Now that the welding has been done I will re-prime the bow and the vice jaw and then paint.
Pic 1 the saw base with vice and pump fitted ,the moveable vice jaw has been repaired and is cooling on the welding bench .
Pic 2 overall view .
Pic 3 and 4 show the pump and control valve rod , the jack shaft is the large shaft sticking up ,the two pump pistons a the smaller shaft at around 45 deg to the pump.I still have to make a gasket for the plug that screws down over the jack shaft and seal the jack up.
Pic 4 is of the repaired bow and vice jaw.(you like my welding bench ? a 44gallon drum with some short lengths of 150 mm channel welded on top.)
Also you can see the pressure relief valve near the jack shaft.(brass looking thingy)
Tomorrow I will set up the valve control rod ,prime and paint the bow and the vice jaw ,and fit the top cap to the jack.

Kev.

A great WIP Kev have seen cast welded never done it myself have brazed a none stress cast and seen a real pro braze a cast piece I envy your ability.

Ray ,
Thanks for the kind words .
I have had a fair amount of experience welding cast iron ,with arc , brazing and thermal powder , I prefer the metal powder , but it can not always be used and it's also very expensive.
The place where I did my time ,always preferred to repair rather replace with new parts so this is where my experience came from.
The powder technology is not new but it has become more advanced since I learnt how to do it.
Might have to slow down on this job for a while ,Missus is getting cheesed off ,because I took time off work to do some other jobs ,which I haven't started yet.
I have noticed that when on leave time passes quicker than when at work.


Kev

Why is it swmbo's always think that leave time is there time when its your time
When it comes to their leave time off they go far away and no concern still leaving hwmbo with a long long list

Yesterday I made a replacement handle for the hydraulic control valve .
The original handle was broken off ,it was made as a one piece casting in cast iron , not a good material for such a slender piece as cast iron is rather brittle and would break off with a moderate impact.
I ground off the stub of the broken lever to get a flat surface , then drilled a 1/4" hole into the centre of the broken stub.
I annealed a 1/2" ball bearing by heating to cherry red and dropped it into a tin with some river sand to let it cool off slowly .
Gripping the softened 1/2 ball in the three jaw chuck I center drilled it and then drilled a 1/4 hole, .
Turned a 1/4" X 1/4" spigot on each end of a piece of 3/4 bar around three inches long

I pressed the ball onto one end of the bar , and then turned the taper on the bar.
I then pressed the other end into the hole in the stub and then silver soldered the joints with high tensile silver solder. I then cleaned up the solder joints with a file and polished the whole deal.
I also made up a screw and installed a ball and spring in the lever so that the detents function, when the lever is operated.

Pic 1 the original busted handle
Pic 2 the remodelled handle with detent ball and spring
Pic 3 closer view.

Woodlee, like Kuntz's ressurected b/saw and jointer, yours is a great thread. I'm really enjoying reading this.

Thanks for the encouragement Waldo,


Stripped the drive assy today and reassembled the blade adjusters onto the bow.

You wouldn't believe it ,when I went to assemble the lever onto the shaft I couldn't find the bloody the cross pin that holds the lever handle on .It was a taper pin. Last I remember it was sitting on the top of the base just above the control valve .buggerbitchbumb*st*rd as Wild Dingo would say ,
I was really browned off , so I dug in my cupboard and found a GJ kit of roll pins ,I re-drilled the hole to parallel to the next size pin and assembled it.
Then today I was looking at some timber on the floor and there's the bloody pin on the floor right next to the timber 10 feet from where it should have been.

Biggest problem will be finding a 2 or 3 hp single phase motor that runs around 1425 rpm with a 1" shaft.

Kev.

Though I would post some more progress pics .It's getting close to finished , still have some odds and ends to do .
One major job left is the guard for the drive gear and pulleys .I also have to find a single phase electric motor of suitable hp .
I was checking out the motor on my Leda 19" band saw , its 2hp and runs at 1425 RPM so If I can get one of those as a spare part Ill be home and hosed.
In the last pic you can see the adjustable depth stop I made ,its the post with the thread sticking out of the top to the right of the pic.
This was missing completely and the saw bow dragged on the main part of the vice ,I don't know how or why they operated it like that .
I made it from a push rod tube from a Cummins 1710 V12 diesel , a 5/8 Whitworth bolt and a couple of nuts.If you look real close down near the bottom of the tube you can just see something of the Cummins part number.
Still have to make the push rods for the eccentrics that drive the pistons for the hydraulics .

Kev

thats one big saw Kev love the colour hope she brings many happy hours cutting