Thread: My latest purchase

If you are using citric acid for the first time for rust removal I suggest you avoid overnight soaking until you are familiar with the time factor for a result.

The citric acid will start to etch into the metal after it has removed the rust, I know a fella who ruined a Stanley # 1 by leaving it too long in the citric acid rust bath.

To avoid the timber handle being affected do not submerge that area.

Another method is to use evaporust, it only works on the rust, it does not affect the metal or any finish unless there is rust under it.

Regards

Graham

I'll second the Eavporust, can be bought from Supercheap Auto. It only reacts with the rusted bits and can be reused. If you let the Evaporust dry on the surface of the tool, it'll from a protective barrier as well. Unless they're already too far gone, Evaporust won't run the risk of damaging any of the threads.

Thanks for the suggestion of Evapo-Rust guys much appreciated good news is that I can get it here in New Zealand so I will look into buying some to get the rust off this old girl.

Has anyone given molasses a go? I know a number of people who use it to clean up metal tools and parts
Haven’t done it myself yet though.

Used to cook barley (cattle feed) with a small quantity of molasses added by bringing it to the boil in the morning and then letting it cool to the following morning, when the barley was fed out and the process was repeated. The old painted 44 gal drum that I was using was a bright shiny steel. It even removed the galvanizing on one drum.

However if the steel was allowed to dry it would immediatly rust.

Was told by a car restorer that it was his prefered way to clean the old body steel as it would remove all rust, paint etc but leave the steel unaffected.

Some bloody good ideas for me to think about I am leaning towards the evapo-rust seeing it can be re-used for other projects requiring rust removal I have also seen a video of a stanley 45 that had been soaked in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water, the 45 won't be the only plane getting a clean up in the next week or two as I have also picked up a very old Stanley 71 1/2 router plane with a patent date of Oct.29.01 and an old mini router plane of unknown brand as it has no markings to identify what company made it

I used vinegar on my Pemuvar P44 plough/rebate plane. Left overnight. Rinsed in a weak bi-carb solution to neutralise the acid then waxed. Came up a treat. Here’s my thread.

Inheritance- more planes

Originally Posted by Lappa

I used vinegar on my Pemuvar P44 plough/rebate plane. Left overnight. Rinsed in a weak bi-carb solution to neutralise the acid then waxed. Came up a treat. Here’s my thread.

Inheritance- more planes

Thanks for that link that pemuvar came up very nicely with the vinegar treatment did you dilute it with water or did you go full strength, what I have done with the last couple fo cleanups with the bench planes is sandpaper stapled to a flat board to run the sides and sole of the plane over it till the rust had come off with repaeted changes of sandpaper (used a dust mask while doing it) and that worked rather well and for rust protection I wiped them down with CRC lanocote which is a lanolin and fish oil blend and works a treat for rust protection with a natural product also sprayed the wood sub fence on my record 778 rebate plane and now that just glides down the sides of timber without binding up or gripping and don't have to wax with a candle before use. and I will be giving the rosewood sub fence on the 45 a spray with lanocote once I have sanded it to get all the marks out and gunk off.

I just found this stuff that is sold at repco it is similar to evapo-rust and around $30 cheaper for a 5 liter container of it and guarantees it won't harm wood even though I won't be dunking the handle About Metal Rescue – METAL RESCUE Rust Remover & DRY COAT Rust Preventative

Originally Posted by Skilsaw

I just found this stuff that is sold at repco it is similar to evapo-rust and around $30 cheaper for a 5 liter container of it and guarantees it won't harm wood even though I won't be dunking the handle About Metal Rescue – METAL RESCUE Rust Remover & DRY COAT Rust Preventative

Bugger, I just spent $90 on 5L of Evapo-rust & see Autobarn over here have Metal Rescue on special for $60 for 5L. I wonder how the two compare?
I suspect that Evapo-rust is based on molasses, as I once left the lid off a jar with it in & after a couple of months it looked like molasses left in the jar.
I like your collection of planes. I've got a few old ones I've rescued as well, including one of the first Millers Falls No. 6 size, that belonged to my grandfather, who was killed in an accident when my mum was only about 12.

Originally Posted by 62woollybugger

Bugger, I just spent $90 on 5L of Evapo-rust & see Autobarn over here have Metal Rescue on special for $60 for 5L. I wonder how the two compare?
I suspect that Evapo-rust is based on molasses, as I once left the lid off a jar with it in & after a couple of months it looked like molasses left in the jar.
I like your collection of planes. I've got a few old ones I've rescued as well, including one of the first Millers Falls No. 6 size, that belonged to my grandfather, who was killed in an accident when my mum was only about 12.

I just stumbled across that metal rescue and also found that mitre10 over here stock it too for less than repco. I have always liked old hand tools I remember when i was younger i would see old tools being put on trailers to go to the dump I would ask if i could have them and the answer was always no and thier reason that it was buggered hell they only had rust on them. But how my little collection started was from a USA No3 stanley type 13 sweetheart i bought, i didn't know what i actually had till that rust started coming off, then I ended up with a second no 3 which i sold today to fund more planes to restore, to me I see it as a way for someone on a tight budget to get good tools if they are willing to put in the work to get them working again for your own use. Some do it to turn a profit I only do that if i get a double up other than that they become my tools for my use and i get more enjoyment out of using them and I always wonder who used them and what jobs they had been used on.

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And now a No5 Type 11 with Sweetheart iron which was confirmed by the seller (obviously not its original iron but that is fine with me), it is coming my way this weekend as I have a mate picking it up on my behalf will go nicely with my type 13 sweetheart no 3


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Electrolysis is fine for rust removal on solid metal tools like plane bodies (not thin metal such as knives or saws though). It does impart a grey patina to the steel, which again is no good for hand saws, and it must be treated soon after the process with some type of sealer as it becomes prone to rusting quickly. It is probably the cheapest form of rust removal providing you already have a small battery charger. some people use components out of computers I believe to create the current.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Electrolysis is fine for rust removal on solid metal tools like plane bodies (not thin metal such as knives or saws though). It does impart a grey patina to the steel, which again is no good for hand saws, and it must be treated soon after the process with some type of sealer as it becomes prone to rusting quickly. It is probably the cheapest form of rust removal providing you already have a small battery charger. some people use components out of computers I believe to create the current.

Regards
Paul

I have a small battery charger i used to charge small 12 volt batteries that i used to use on a small boat i used to own to run the depth finder and vhf radio but i don't want to get into the electrolysis thing as i hate the idea of messing with electrical stuff.

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