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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default Stanley No 12 an a old saw !!

    I recently picked up a Stanley No 12 while Sally was feeling a bit sick an wasn’t keeping such a close eye on me.

    But it only came with Toothing blade , having a few old saw blades on hand, an unfortunately knowing which end of a Grinder makes the sparks, I’m thinking of making a scraper blade,
    But is there any reason why I shouldn’t.

    The toothing blade is approximately 1.25 mm thick, quite a bit thicker than your average Disston panther saw blade, at about 0.8 mm.

    It seems a no Brainer too me, but maybe I’ve just missed something.

    Like just using the other end of the blade for instance [emoji848] no comment.

    I know you can get new blades, but the price seems a little rich in my humble opinion.








    Cheers Matt.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    Default

    Nice find!

    I see no reason why a piece of saw plate wouldn’t work; I used to have a Stanley 80 “homemade copy” (probably made by a patternmaker) with a sawplate blade that worked just fine. It also wouldn’t surprise me to discover that a toothed blade would need to be thicker than a normal blade anyway; maybe someone who has both can measure and chip in?

    That toothing blade would be ideal for keying surfaces prior to veneering but if you don’t think you will ever need it then clean it up, coat it in wax and set it aside for the day you decide to move the 12 on to a new owner.

    I have some blued steel scraper blades that were a clearance item at Bunnings a few years ago; from memory they would be forty to to fifty thou thick. Happy to cut you off a piece when I get back home; I'm working up in Gladstone till the 21st so you’ll need to be patient!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Nice find!

    I see no reason why a piece of saw plate wouldn’t work; I used to have a Stanley 80 “homemade copy” (probably made by a patternmaker) with a sawplate blade that worked just fine. It also wouldn’t surprise me to discover that a toothed blade would need to be thicker than a normal blade anyway; maybe someone who has both can measure and chip in?

    That toothing blade would be ideal for keying surfaces prior to veneering but if you don’t think you will ever need it then clean it up, coat it in wax and set it aside for the day you decide to move the 12 on to a new owner.

    I have some blued steel scraper blades that were a clearance item at Bunnings a few years ago; from memory they would be forty to to fifty thou thick. Happy to cut you off a piece when I get back home; I'm working up in Gladstone till the 21st so you’ll need to be patient!

    Chief,

    Don’t fret i intend too use the tooting blade,for its intended purpose, so its not being retired quite yet,
    Also I would be more than happy too try some of the Blued steel if its not too much trouble,

    Cheers Matt.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
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    1,503

    Default

    You can still get replacement scraper blades.
    They are about 1mm thick.
    Spear and Jackson - FLOOR SCRAPER BLADE FS200
    You need to order them in at Bunnings.
    Just a moment...

    Total Tools have another brand that is 1.2mm thick.
    MASTERFINISH 200mm Floor Scraper - Replacement Blade FS200B | Total Tools

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,014

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    You can still get replacement scraper blades.
    They are about 1mm thick.
    Spear and Jackson - FLOOR SCRAPER BLADE FS200
    You need to order them in at Bunnings.
    Just a moment...

    Total Tools have another brand that is 1.2mm thick.
    MASTERFINISH 200mm Floor Scraper - Replacement Blade FS200B | Total Tools
    I have too check them out I frequent both stores,
    I wonder what type of steel they use 1095,1085 it looks like a spring steel!!

    Cheers Matt.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
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    Default

    Nice pick up Matt. My dreams only go so far as a #80, yours is next level. Enjoy! I bought a Bahco scraper from TT, it was quite thick and would work.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Nice pick up Matt. My dreams only go so far as a #80, yours is next level. Enjoy! I bought a Bahco scraper from TT, it was quite thick and would work.
    Thanks MA,

    I was actually very very surprised too, when I won it.
    It wasn’t cheap, but I thought the bidding was going too go a lot further than I was prepared too go.

    But when it arrived I was even more surprised it’s in real good condition, so I won’t be doing anything than just a quick clean extra.

    Cheers Matt.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2023
    Location
    Avoca Beach, NSW
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    Default

    The number of scrapers that go through my hands with bits of saw plate replacing the original irons would suggest they are more than adequate. Saw plates can be somewhat thinner that the original steel. From a user perspective you would want to use as thick a saw plate as you can find. The thicker it is the less chance of too much flexing. I don't know what the original no.12 iron is, but an No.80 is 1.1mm or about 45 thou and that is supposed to flex. Being bigger and non-flexing the No.12 is likely to be even thicker originally. My No. 12 has a replacement Boker iron in it which is 1.5mm or 60 thou

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    11,136

    Default

    Oldtoolshop

    As you say, sawplates vary in thickness. Handsaws (26") are typically around .036" to .039" with .040" equating to 1mm. So, yes they are a little thin for Matt's Stanley No.12, but on the other hand a saw will potentially produce a large number of blades for a small plane. A 28" saw will usually be a little thicker. The best bet of all would be a crosscut logging saw that is no longer fit for purpose. Just remember that all the better saws, including the one and two man logging saws, were taper ground. It is better and easier if you can find one without taper grinding for this purpose.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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