Thread: Turner No. 5 Jack Plane

Before you get the rust removal stuff chuck up a before photo so you can log your progress and assistance could be given ( if you want it)

I could be wrong but rust converter is generally used before priming. Where is the rust? Depending on the location and severity you could use a rust eraser

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Hi Pac-man

Here are some pics, as requested. Thanks for looking at them. I'd be very interested to know the best way to clean up the parts.

The plane bed itself is rust free

missed this before but how bent is a bent frog?

I would start with the blade as this will get the result of being able to use the plane as the rest is cosmetic. From your photo is this rust spot on the bevelled side of the blade or the flat side?
If its the flat side this will be removed as you sharpen the blade if you are going to flatten the back. If its the side that receives the bevel which i think it is this will need to be addressed so the cap iron can seat correctly.

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The rest of the plane is cosmetic and can be done later.

So sorry but more questions
1. do you have a grinder?
2.How will you sharpen eg do you have a medium such as stones ( oil or water ) or diamond paste or grit etc or access to them ?
3. and for my interest does the blade have a logo on it and what is it eg is it Turner or Erik Anton Berg ?

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Here are a couple of images of bent frogs. Hope that clears it up

The rust spot on the blade is on the flat side, so yes it should come off fine. To answer the other questions

1. grinder? no. but Tom Sheppard (village wood worker) has kindly offered to re-bevel the blade as it has a large chip, and I posted it off today. When it comes back I will hone it and take care of that rust spot. I don'thave a grinder for the rest, but to pre-empt the reason for the question, I have a drill press which I could load a brass brush wheel thingie in.

2. I sharpen on a 1000/6000 combination water stone

3. Blade is Turner (no Berg - ice, lettuce or otherwise)

Cheers

Tom is ScribblyGum on this forum. I will leave you in his hands. I would have sent him the cap iron and screw to mate them together for you as well.

While you are waiting for the blade lookup citric acid rust removal to decide whether you want to try that for the screw or try a rust eraser or old sandpaper on the other rusted parts.

beauty, thanks for your help

I Have a Turner no5, garage sale score . for years despite my best attempts it would not plane well, the iron would advance skewed and always hard to one side . I read a blog on this site from a turner guru that the frogs were diecast and prone to twist if over tightened, I checked my turner frog and it had a big curve, luckily a Stanley frog for a 4 or 5 fits ,the plane immediately was cured and is in daily use , cheers Rossco

Originally Posted by woodsurfer

I Have a Turner no5, garage sale score . for years despite my best attempts it would not plane well, the iron would advance skewed and always hard to one side . I read a blog on this site from a turner guru that the frogs were diecast and prone to twist if over tightened, I checked my turner frog and it had a big curve, luckily a Stanley frog for a 4 or 5 fits ,the plane immediately was cured and is in daily use , cheers Rossco

Thanks woodsurfer, I'll check it out when the blade returns from Scribblygum who is kindly restoring it for me.. I just got off the phone to the missus and apparently we haven't got a delivery in the mail yet, although packages come in the afternoon normally..... the suspense is killing me!! I even pulled out my block plane iron and sharpened it up last night cos I just need to feel the iron in my hands. The frog has bit of a bend in it, hopefully nothing too bad otherwise I'll grab a stanley