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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default wadkin bursgreen 10" table saw

    I recently purchased a wadkin bursgreen table saw. I would have liked a powermattic table saw, but at around $5000 with delivery, the wadkin represented good value for money. I picked it up for $400(plus $100 for fuel to pick up.) I plan to spend another $1000 dollars on doing it up (don't tell my wife, she thinks it's only going to cost $500 )
    Before I purchasing I read another thread on this forum, which helped sell me On the machine, I'll try not double what has already been posted there.
    On the agenda for the machine is, strip down, repaint and rebuild I'll probably replace bearings etc as I go. The pulley belts need replacing, would you guys recommend changing the twist belts opposed to the v belts?
    Replace 3 phase motor with a single phase3hp motor. Replace the original fence with a carbatec t square fence. I would also like to cover in the opening around the motor, change the ducting for the dust extraction, and put castors under it to move around the work shop.
    I might be getting fussy butI am also thinking of replacing the plastic handles on the hand wheels with metal ones or timber.
    The project may take some time as I can't really get too distracted from the latest furniture project, so I'll just collect parts for another month or so.
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Nice looking saw you got jrock, looks like it has its original guard , and mitre fence.
    I did a thread on my Wadkin last December, it was my new years eve post.
    My saw was missing the mitre fence the guard and the rip fence was broken. I love the thing compared to the Carbatec table saw that I had previously . I prefer the 3 HP for ripping.
    It will be good to see what you do with your restoration. I stuck with the v belts ,3 of them ,no problems .

    Rob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default

    Thanks Rob,
    There may be some questions heading your way when I get started

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default

    I've had the carbatec heavy duty rip fence turn up and it seems like a good solid unit. I have to resist bolting it on before I restore and repaint the machine. It looks like it should go on without to many dramas. The bolt holes in the rails even line up with the existing holes in the machine.
    While I am happy with the fence I have a couple of minor gripes. The first being the stick on tape over it's length is just under a mm out against my steel rule. The second gripe is the fence's faces are at slightly different positions, it won't effect the use, will just annoy me.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jrock_au View Post
    The first being the stick on tape over it's length is just under a mm out against my steel rule. The second gripe is the fence's faces are at slightly different positions, it won't effect the use, will just annoy me.
    Gee you would think that the steel rule would be made a bit better than that

    Jrock_au, I must have missed this thread originally, so I am a bit late, but congratulations on your purchase.

    Cheers,

    Camo

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    It would be interesting to see if ten minutes in the sun or a few minutes in front of a heater changes the length of the tape.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    It would be interesting to see if ten minutes in the sun or a few minutes in front of a heater changes the length of the tape.
    I did wonder if the weather here in Tassie may affect the length. I may be able to stretch it when I stick it on too, might save me buying a new one.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Country SA
    Posts
    13

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    I have what looks to be the same saw. It was my fathers for at least 30 years (second-hand when he got it), and is still running the three- v-belt drive, which has never put a foot wrong to my knowledge (Dad would have changed it quick smart if it had). It has the original fence with a timber face block attached to it, and has been converted to single phase. What does the spec plate on yours say about the motor? Mine claims to be a six-volt, 24 phase, 800 cycle motor, which strikes me as strange. The timber extension table is one of Dad's modifications, and makes it much easier to cut panels or rip long stock. The wheels are just heavy-duty wheels mounted on pieces of1/2" or 3/8" steel plate, again done by Dad.
    .Saw2.jpgSaw7.jpg

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    297

    Smile wadkin saw

    G'day jrock, I love the look of your saw. I've just bought,but am yet to pick-up an old 1966 powermatic pm66 which looks very similar to yours. I've researched this particular model for awhile,and was happy to find one,but it aint a WADKIN. Good luck with the restoration,and I look forward to seeing pics of your project. Cheers Greg

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default

    It's taken a long while to get around to it, but I have finally started to strip down the table saw.
    Overall I think it is in pretty good condition and is coming apart fairly easy. However I have stripped the head off the "riving knife bracket trapping bolt" and left half the bolt in it's hole. My plan is to take it to a machining company them to remove and make a new one. While I am there I'll take the main spindle assembly along to get some new bearings installed and the blade's flange checked for true. I have also noticed in the parts list a special nut for dado head, see photo. I am thinking of getting one made. I can see this being very handy in the future, but not sure how safe it would be.
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  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,501

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jrock_au View Post
    I've had the carbatec heavy duty rip fence turn up and it seems like a good solid unit. I have to resist bolting it on before I restore and repaint the machine. It looks like it should go on without to many dramas. The bolt holes in the rails even line up with the existing holes in the machine.
    While I am happy with the fence I have a couple of minor gripes. The first being the stick on tape over it's length is just under a mm out against my steel rule. The second gripe is the fence's faces are at slightly different positions, it won't effect the use, will just annoy me.
    Try one of these instead:
    Starrett Measure Stix Self-Stick Tape Rules

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default

    Thanks hiroller, I will look into the starret tape. I would imagine it would be a bit more accurate.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

    Default

    I found this interesting blog where the writer has added a dust chute to his wadkin ags10 saw. It's a shame there aren't any measurements to copy it although I should be able to get a good start from the photos.
    Wadkin dust extraction mods: December 2006

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

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    I thought the best way to prep all the pieces would be to get them sand blasted.
    For $250 I got the all the main cabinet, under side of the table and a few other small bits blasted and primed in a two pack primer. I thought this was pretty reasonable considering by the time I bought the paint and mucked around trying to sand blast it myself for a few days and doing a job half as good the cost was worth it.
    I have got a tin of hammertone paint colour matched to the original paint to be sprayed on, I am waiting for a calm day outside to do this.
    The main spindle I have taken to an engineering firm to replace the bearings, check the flanges for true, replace broken bolt and make a new "dado nut". I hope to have it back before Christmas.
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  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    132

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    I thought a nice touch to the machine would be to replace the original plastic handles with some timber ones. The handles are fiddle back Tas oak, that I've had put aside for a special project. I've finished them in carnauba wax. They should patina nicely with use.
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