Thread: Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Bob bought some stainless rod and ran a tap over them, to get the desired thread. I thought it a smart idea as it keeps it looking nice.

Yes I thought that would be the way to go.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

It easy find metric knobs on eBay but we will need 1/2" bsw.

Any suggestion were I can find them?

If you have or can source a BSW tap and die, the drill size for tapping 1/2" BSW is 10.5mm, so I would be looking at the knobs for 10mm and drill them out to 10.5 before tapping.

A couple of less sophisticated approaches I am considering trying, would be to buy a 1/2" BSW bolt (bunnies has them on the shelf), grind a few flutes, and use this to tap the knob (given it's plastic), I'm thinking heating the bolt would possibly be worth a try too (the original ones look like they may have been hot fitted).

Stainless would be nice, but I may cheat and weld some threaded rod (BSW, again Bunnies has that), to either end of some rod and sand the weld smooth on the lathe or in the drill press. Probably not a standard for you to go for, but mines going to be hopefully bought back to a working standard as the guard is not original

Cheers,

Camo

I think I will tap stainless steel rod myself. I searched eBay for small section of stainless rod but found nothing local all the stuff was out of the US/UK. The shipping and currency exchange becomes a problem.

Most brick and mortar stores only sell rod in 6 meter lengths which is way to much.

Does anyone know a local offcuts supplier of stainless rod?

Most of the scrap dealers will have approx 1m lengths of stainless rod in that size range. It is usually painted yellow on the end to designate it as stainless. I know the scrappy on Canterbury rd Bayswater regularily has it. Also the one on Boundry Rd Mordialloc should.

The knobs come pre threaded and a 10mm one should screw on to an imperial thread without to much hassle (well one did for me). If your cutting your own thread just put metric with metric if that is what you have. The stainless isn't original anyway so shouldn't confuse any future owners.

$38/meter from my local supplier (in stock), so if you have no luck at scrap, I'm sure someone your way wil sell by the meter. If you get desperate send me a PM and I will pick some up for you.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

The knobs come pre threaded and a 10mm one should screw on to an imperial thread without to much hassle (well one did for me).

Dale,

Does yours have thinner rod? Or do you mean the 12mm (I think I saw 12mm)?

Originally Posted by camoz

$38/meter from my local supplier (in stock), so if you have no luck at scrap, I'm sure someone your way wil sell by the meter. If you get desperate send me a PM and I will pick some up for you.



Dale,

Does yours have thinner rod? Or do you mean the 12mm (I think I saw 12mm)?

Sorry I wasn't referring to the waldown specifically there. I did a imperial knob on the belt tensioner of my old Wood lathe and used a 10mm die to cut the thread as I didn't have a matching die and it screws on fine.

It was the suggestion of 10, or 10.5mm a few posts back that prompted my thought. It may be ½" 12.7mm rod in which case yes use 12mm knobs and thread or even 13mm and loctite if loose.



EDIT** The 10 or 10.5mm were in regard to tap drill size. Got my wires crossed. I should have a ½ BSW tap by the way probably not a die though but I can look.

In the past I've drilled knobs out to clear the OD of the thread, applied wax or car polish on the threads, then potted the thread down in the knob with epoxy. When it's set completely hard the thread can be cracked and removed, or if it doesn't need to come off for assembly just leave it there and don't crack the thread loose, or you can even delete the waxing step. For threads that need some real strength, or need to be undone multiple times, short Kevlar fibre filler can be added to the epoxy.

Potted threads made this way are all but as strong as ones tapped straight into the plastic. If the Kevlar filler is used, they are probably stronger that bakelite threads.

This is also a great way to repair damaged screw holes pulled out of materials like chip board or MDF, and is a great substitute for Tee nuts when you only have access to one side of a panel and the load would be pulling outwards.

Graham.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Sorry I wasn't referring to the waldown specifically there. I did a imperial knob on the belt tensioner of my old Wood lathe and used a 10mm die to cut the thread as I didn't have a matching die and it screws on fine.

It was the suggestion of 10, or 10.5mm a few posts back that prompted my thought. It may be ½" 12.7mm rod in which case yes use 12mm knobs and thread or even 13mm and loctite if loose.



EDIT** The 10 or 10.5mm were in regard to tap drill size. Got my wires crossed. I should have a ½ BSW tap by the way probably not a die though but I can look.

Ah, OK, I was starting to wonder just how many variations there were on the 8SN

Well there is the early waldowngs that resembles the 8SN, and there were 8SN series 1,2,3 badged machine, and two options of spindles, bench, floorstanding full length column and floor standing pedestal where the bench model column fits into the cast pedestal no base/lower table. There was standard 3ph & 240v motors and there was options on Hp.
So there is probably more out there.

I finally got around to returning the stuff I bought from Brobo, hopefully they will refund me my money asap.

I also sent Jhovel my broken spindle today which he should get by the end of the week.

I have an idea regarding replacing the plastic knob on the right hand side of the drill press. I was thinking of doing a kind of split turning. I managed to extract the threaded nut that was imbedded in the broken knob. I was thinking of machining some Yarran, the gluing it together with paper. Then drilling out the hole to take the nut. Then splitting the two pieces apart and epoxing in the nut into the middle, then gluing all together. Then turning a new knob.

What do you think? I can also make some handles for the handle capstan rods. Essentially pimping my drill press.

DSEL74 I think this maybe one of my machines - it resembles an 8SN but no were does it say 8SN on the name plates. Should it?

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Well there is the early waldowngs that resembles the 8SN, and there were 8SN series 1,2,3 badged machine, and two options of spindles, bench, floorstanding full length column and floor standing pedestal where the bench model column fits into the cast pedestal no base/lower table. There was standard 3ph & 240v motors and there was options on Hp.
So there is probably more out there.

As far as I have seen, actual 8SN will be badged as such. A red printed on silver oval badge. I have a 8SN III & a very early one, earlier than yours.

During the week I got my repaired spindle back from Jhovel. Here are the photos.

This is what the spindle looked like before Jhovel got it.

IMG_4883.jpg

This is with the new piece welded on. I assume its a Morse taper No.2

IMG_4895.jpg IMG_4896.jpg IMG_4897.jpg IMG_4900.jpg

Unless you look very carefully inside the slot were you can see the weld, you would swear it was all original.

My thanks for Jhovel for his generosity.

You are welcome. Yes, it is MT 2. I was surprised to see the weld in the bottom of the milled slot too

The next step is to replace the ball bearings on the spindle and upper housing. There is a local bearing supplier in my area. I am not sure about the cost of the bearing it could cost me $10 per ball bearing or $100 per bearing depending on the type.

I have asked before but did not get a response can anyone recommend me a quality drill press chuck that between $100 - $250 but not a made China.

To Do List

• Powder Coating.
• Buy and fit replacement bearings.
• Polish small items
• Oil, Grease & Assemble.
• Drink a bottle Islay Whiskey.

Costing (So Far)

• $390 Drill Press
• $200 Variable Frequency Drive
• $040 Poly Strip Discs & wire brush wheel from http://www.smithandarrow.com.au
• $040 Sisal Mop, Calico Loose Flap Wheel & compounds from http://www.polish-up.com.au
• $002.5 3 Phase 4 core cable
• $012 Round Electrical lugs
• $012 Forked Electrical lugs
• $040 Crimping Tool
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 60 Grit Coarse Sanding Flap Wheel
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 120 Grit Fine Sanding Flap Wheel
• $006 Grease
• $025 1/2" BSW Die
• $050 Postage Costs
• $060 Repairs to the sheet metal enclosure
• $400 Powder Coating
• $050 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever.
• $030 Three red bakelight ball knobs with 1/2" BSW thread
• $040 Replacement ball bearing on spindle & upper housing
• $250 NO.2 Morse Tapper 1/2" Drill Press Chuck

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1670.52 TOTAL