Thread: Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP

I bought a chinese made 16mm keyless chuck from CDC for about $75 and find it excellent.

I am cross posting this from the metal working forum.

Originally Posted by kwijibo99

I've been doing a bit of work on Helmut's drill press bits off and on over the last couple of weeks and pretty much finished it off today.
The patched mounting hole in the base was re-drilled to 5/8" to match the other two. The weld material was still fairly hard to drill, I can only assume the weld pool absorbs additional carbon from the CI while in a molten state and this leads to a much harder alloy than either the original filler rod or base CI. It would be interesting if any metallurgists out there have any thoughts on this.

With the hole repair done it was time to machine the flat section of the base. The base casting was too wide to fit on the table so I clamped a pair of extended parallels down first then bridged the base across them. As the bottom edge of the base is not machined there is no surface to use as a reference to level it for machining so indicating off the flat for the column base I adjusted the universal table until it was level in the X and Y planes within half a thou.

Waldown Base 10.jpg Waldown Base 11.jpg

Running an 80mm face mill it was necessary to take off 0.030" before the surface was clean and even. The flat on the base is 12" square which pretty much maxed out the work envelope of the Thiel but having the ability to extend the head in the Y direction meant the job was done without too much trouble.

Waldown Base 12.jpg

With the machining done it was out with the scraper again. I figured I would do a few passes just so the base texture matched the table. After a couple of passes the bluing was still fairly patchy but the surface was flat enough that a 0.0015 feeler gauge wouldn't go under a straight edge at any point. Given the base will inevitably twist if it's bolted down I figured this was plenty good enough.

Waldown Base 13.jpg Waldown Base 14.jpg

I don't think I ever posted a photo of the finished table, the contact per square inch count is probably not that high but I reckon it would have to be one of the flatter drill press tables out there and the scraping marks make the hole repairs pretty much invisible.

Waldown Table 02.jpg Waldown Table 03.jpg

That pretty much finishes this part of the restoration so I'll drop these pieces back to Helmut some time next week and he can get on with the powder coating.
Cheers,
Greg.

Yesterday Greg (kwijibo99) dropped of the table, foot and other smaller parts for the drill press. The scraped surface looks really good, it plays with the light as you move about it. Really nice. Greg was also kind enough to give me a German Made Metabo chuck since the one that came with the drill press was busted.

The drill press parts when to the Powder Coaters today. They say it could take up to six weeks, as they are very busy.

I explained all the parts that will need to taped off and they will contact me when it is done.

Tomorrow I will go get the stainless for the handles and will go to the ball bearing place to see how much they will cost.

I am still tossing up about the colours. I feel like a bride choosing a wedding dress.

This is kind of the range I am looking at

Screen Shot 2015-09-23 at 8.32.53 PM.png

WARNING: Former Graphic Designer Tangent/rant

The problem with paper samples is that its CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and key (black)) colour model and the web is RGB (Red, Green Blue) colour model neither are true indications of what the powder will look like on metal. And then there is the whole gamma settings problem. That can throw out colours.

Here is the same colour Interpol Wizard Gloss GJ054A. Screen shoot from two pdf's

Screen Shot 2015-09-23 at 8.36.23 PM.png

AND

Screen Shot 2015-09-23 at 8.36.32 PM.png

The first one looks grey and the second green.

The first one has a RGB value of 60:89:97
The second one has a RGB value of 52:88:95

The numbers are close but different enough to give very different impressions.

So I am thinking of ordering a few sample panels from a Interpon & Dulux to get a real idea of what the colour looks like.

.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Here is the same colour Interpol Wizard Gloss GJ054A. Screen shoot from two pdf's

Screen Shot 2015-09-23 at 8.36.23 PM.png

AND

Screen Shot 2015-09-23 at 8.36.32 PM.png

The first one looks grey and the second green.

They both look the same to my poor old eyes and demented brain

Cheers, Vann.

They are bloody close.

If you look at the RBG values.

The first one has a RGB value of 60:89:97
The second one has a RGB value of 52:88:95

RGB values can range from 0:0:0 = black to 255:255:255 = white

So there is only 8 red :1 green :2 blue tonal differences between the two I doubt most people could pick it.

But all the above aside - I do do not trust paper or digital colour samples.

I went to get the ball bearings today and a circlip. The ballbearings cost me $50, so that is not to bad and the circlip was a $1. I also purchased a German made Kapex internal and an external circlip plier cost me $40 and $50 respectively.

The problem is that there is this toggle thing that needs to removed before one of the ball bearings can be slide of the upper housing.

Photo two shows the toggle thing that need to removed for one of the ball bearing to slide past.


IMG_4901.jpg IMG_4904.jpg IMG_4905.jpg IMG_4906.jpg IMG_4908.jpg IMG_4908.jpg

Interesting the larger ball bearings were made in Australia. The guy said they were most likely 20 years old since it has been that long since anyone made ball bearings in Australia.

I finished cleaning and polishing up the small metal components.
Tomorrow I will clean up the post with some wet & dry to 240 grit.

I will post photos then.

To Do List

• fit replacement bearings.
• Cut 1/2" Stainless rod & cut 1/2" BSW thread on them
• Oil, Grease & Assemble.
• Drink a bottle Islay Whiskey.

Costing (So Far)

• $390 Drill Press
• $200 Variable Frequency Drive
• $040 Poly Strip Discs & wire brush wheel from http://www.smithandarrow.com.au
• $040 Sisal Mop, Calico Loose Flap Wheel & compounds from http://www.polish-up.com.au
• $002.5 3 Phase 4 core cable
• $012 Round Electrical lugs
• $012 Forked Electrical lugs
• $040 Crimping Tool
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 60 Grit Coarse Sanding Flap Wheel
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 120 Grit Fine Sanding Flap Wheel
• $006 Grease
• $025 1/2" BSW Die
• $050 Postage Costs
• $060 Repairs to the sheet metal enclosure
• $400 Powder Coating
• $020 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever.
• $030 Three red bakelight ball knobs with 1/2" BSW thread
• $050 Replacement ball bearing on spindle & upper housing
• $090 Kapex Internial & External Circlip Pliers
• $002 Circlips
• $010 Wet & Dry Paper
• $030 Chuck Arbor

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
1532.52 TOTAL

Pressing the old bearings off and the new ones on when you don't have a press is a matter of using your bench vice and some sockets or pipe fittings or similar - or a big hammer. Just think about what you are doing, rather than just using brute force: you must NOT transmit any forces THROUGH the balls - of the new bearings.
So use whatever you have on hand to transmit the force (or the hammer blow) ONLY on the part of the bearing being moved. Keep everything nice and square and concentric and all should go well. The bearings on Waldowns are not a very tight fit.

Okay - had some movement.

I managed to replace the bearings that fit on the spindle.

I used a pipe to move them down it was relatively easy.

I then inserted the spindle into the sleeve and tap that home.

I would give it a light tap, tap, then light tap tap at opposite side going backwards and forwards and around and around.

Then I inserted the circlip.

I managed to remove the bottom bearing with ease and replaced it with the new one.

IMG_4909.jpg IMG_4910.jpg IMG_4911.jpg

UPDATE:

I got the toggle thing out, just a light tap and it popped out.

Okay I can now tap the last bearing off.

Is the toggle thingy a wood ruff(Google pics)key ? if so ,just tap one side and pull it out.
It only a small moon shape
And by the way, fantastic right up I've been sitting in the dark admire it.

Just had another look
I'm pretty sure that's just a woodruff key

Yep it was a half moon thing all I needed to do was tap it out. Then push it back in when I was done.

Task complete - All bearings replaced and now the spindle spins smooth.

Excellent just make sure you line it up with what ever it lines up with on re assembly [emoji3]
Matt

QUESTION: Can anyone tell me how long the rods are for the capstan lever assembly as my drill press did not have any when I got it?

To Do List

• Cut 1/2" Stainless rod & cut 1/2" BSW thread on them
• Make OR find replacement knob for capstan level assembly
• Oil, Grease & Assemble.
• Drink a bottle Islay Whiskey.

Costing (So Far)

• $390 Drill Press
• $200 Variable Frequency Drive
• $040 Poly Strip Discs & wire brush wheel from http://www.smithandarrow.com.au
• $040 Sisal Mop, Calico Loose Flap Wheel & compounds from http://www.polish-up.com.au
• $002.5 3 Phase 4 core cable
• $012 Round Electrical lugs
• $012 Forked Electrical lugs
• $040 Crimping Tool
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 60 Grit Coarse Sanding Flap Wheel
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 120 Grit Fine Sanding Flap Wheel
• $006 Grease
• $025 1/2" BSW Die
• $050 Postage Costs
• $060 Repairs to the sheet metal enclosure
• $400 Powder Coating
• $090 Kapex Internial & External Circlip Pliers
• $002 Circlips
• $010 Wet & Dry Paper
• $050 Replacement ball bearing on spindle & upper housing
• $020 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever.
• $130 Three stainless steel ball knobs with 1/2" BSW thread
• $030 Chuck Arbor

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
$1632.52 TOTAL