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  1. #106
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    Nov 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    QUESTION: Can anyone tell me how long the rods are for the capstan lever assembly as my drill press did not have any when I got it?

    To Do List



    • Cut 1/2" Stainless rod & cut 1/2" BSW thread on them
    • Make OR find replacement knob for capstan level assembly
    • Oil, Grease & Assemble.
    • Drink a bottle Islay Whiskey.


    Costing (So Far)


    • $390 Drill Press
    • $200 Variable Frequency Drive
    • $040 Poly Strip Discs & wire brush wheel from http://www.smithandarrow.com.au
    • $040 Sisal Mop, Calico Loose Flap Wheel & compounds from http://www.polish-up.com.au
    • $002.5 3 Phase 4 core cable
    • $012 Round Electrical lugs
    • $012 Forked Electrical lugs
    • $040 Crimping Tool
    • $011.51 Josco 60mm 60 Grit Coarse Sanding Flap Wheel
    • $011.51 Josco 60mm 120 Grit Fine Sanding Flap Wheel
    • $006 Grease
    • $025 1/2" BSW Die
    • $050 Postage Costs
    • $060 Repairs to the sheet metal enclosure
    • $400 Powder Coating
    • $090 Kapex Internial & External Circlip Pliers
    • $002 Circlips
    • $010 Wet & Dry Paper
    • $050 Replacement ball bearing on spindle & upper housing
    • $020 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever.
    • $130 Three stainless steel ball knobs with 1/2" BSW thread
    • $030 Chuck Arbor

    _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
    $1632.52 TOTAL
    Thumbsucker,

    I have to apologise with getting back to you, as they say plenty of reasons, no excuses. I assume you are right with the bearings, good job!!

    I have done some measurements on my rods, the balls are on tight (looks like fitted hot) so can't measure the rod without the ball. From the ball to the end it is 147mm and there is about a 2mm lip of plastic at the base of the ball, the thread is 16.1mm, the ball looks to be 1 1/2"

    Hope that helps. I know you said you were going to get the stainless, but if you have not got it yet, I am going past the steel place on Wednesday.

    cheers,

    Camo

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  3. #107
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    Mar 2006
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    Thanks Camo it gives me a base length, then all I need to do as add on the length for the threaded ends and I will have my number.

    Its okay with the stainless steel, I found a group a little up the road from me who sell 1/2" SS for $9 a meter with a minimum of only 2 meters.

  4. #108
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    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    I found a group a little up the road from me who sell 1/2" SS for $9 a meter with a minimum of only 2 meters.
    Wow!! Clearly the guys at my end have just a bit of a mark up

  5. #109
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    I called the powder coaters today seeking an update, they say they will have the drill press done by the end of this week and hopefully early next week it will be back in my custody.

  6. #110
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    The drill press came back from the powder coaters today.

    I set about assembling it.

    I am very happy with the colour it is less grey and more baby blue then the paper sample.

    The next item on my list is to make the 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever and to get a back plate laser cut so that I can mount the VFD. I also need to make changes to the motor foot. I tried a few local motor repair shops to see if they had a motor foot the same size as the mounting point on the drill press but no luck. So I am thinking of welding on some sheet metal to the motor foot making it larger so it could fit the mounting points on the drill press.

    Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4940-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4941-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4942-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4943-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4946-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4947-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4950-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4951-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4952-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4953-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4954-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4957-jpg Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP-img_4958-jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #111
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    Wow it's really coming together now
    Second hand and better than brand new
    Why don't you bring it to the Melbourne get together
    Na better not is in an RSL CLUB
    MATT

  8. #112
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    Dec 2013
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    Wow! It's looking great. I never would have thought that a colour resembling baby blue would work an a machine tool, but it does.

    What's that ring of weld?

    Maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, but what did you use to fill the rust pits in the belt guard prior to powdercoating?

    Graham.

  9. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbikerider View Post
    what did you use to fill the rust pits in the belt guard prior to powdercoating?


    Nothing - we stripped it then it was sand blasted and the powder coated, the powder coating is 0.5 mm thick and it seems to have filled most of the surface irregularities. There are a few spots /depressions I can see on the sheetmetal enclosed but they are minor. Considering how bad it was pitted in places it turned out good.

    If the manufacturing of a new sheet metal enclosure was cost effective / affordable I would have opted to replace it completely.

    My hope is to have a machine that is better then what the machine came off the the factory floor.

    I think the baby blue works because there is just enough metallic grey in the blue.

    The sheet metal enclosure had a hole cut in it. So that the head could be dropped down below the top of the post.

    This is what it looked like:

    IMG_4639.jpg

    This is the inside the weld had to be kept to keep the sheetmetal insert secure

    IMG_4947.jpg

    This is what it looks like on the top its seamless.

    IMG_4950.jpg

  10. #114
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    Sorry thumbsucker
    But why did the weld bead have to be kept on the inside to
    Not trying to rub anyone the wrong way
    It's just I coming from ten years doing Auto restoration and that was common repair for us when cutting out rust

  11. #115
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    I am not a metal worker. So I just took the advice given to me.

    I was told that it would be stronger. If the well on the inside was ground away there may not be enough to support hold the patch.

    Anyway its on the inside and will never been seen.

  12. #116
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    True it is on the inside

  13. #117
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    Also would love to see it all finished

  14. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    I was told that it would be stronger. If the well on the inside was ground away there may not be enough to support hold the patch.

    Anyway its on the inside and will never been seen.
    If the weld has good penetration, it should not need the bead to support the patch - however, as you say, it's on the inside and won't be seen.

    Nice looking drill press BTW.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #119
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    I hope to have the machine finished and operational in the next two week. Just a few more minor jobs. I will post back with updates.

  16. #120
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    Like I said it is really looking great

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