Thread: Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP

Tomorrow I will got to the stainless steel supplier to purchase the stainless steel rod material for the capstan and a M2 to J6 arbor for the chuck.

I have sent a bunch of quote requests from Melbourne based laser cutters as I need a stainless or aluminium mounting plate for the VFD. The following drawing shows what I have planed, the slots on the right is were the motor connects to the drill press, the VFD will sit on the left hand side of the motor. I am left handed so I instinctual reach out for the On/Off switch with my left hand.



The other problem I need to fix is the mounting foot for the motor, the motor foot is to small for the mount point on the drill press. I contacted a few motor repair shops to see if they had a suitable sized motor foot, but to no avail.



I tried to file the slot bigger put I would have to file it so that there would be a mere 3mm steel left on the edge. I fear this will not be enough to support the motor over time.

I was thinking of cutting off the top & bottom section that has the slots and welding on two new strips top and bottom to in essence make the foot wider. Then getting new slots drilled/milled?

Here is the basic idea visually:

Why not make your mounting plate out of thicker material and use it as an adapter plate put countersunk screws in to hold the motor with its current foot.

After a few minor tasks the drill press is 99% operational. I wish I had a video camera so I could show the old girl singing.

I fitted the motor to the drill press, by filling the slots to size. This is a short term measure.

IMG_4970.jpg IMG_4971.jpg

I bought a Llambrich M2J6 arbor for $35 and installed it.

IMG_4969.jpg

The VFD is sitting on a chair, I got a price for the laser cutting the backing plate at $100. But for the moment the chair will suffice.

Here you can see the assembled spindle, arbor and chuck. Ready for use.

IMG_4967.jpg

QUESTION - How tight should a wind / tension the spring? If I just slot the spring into place. Quill and Spindle assemble rebounds up only partially after being depressed, the bottom of the quill would come to rest about 40mm below the casting, never fully retracting. Unhappy with this I slotted the spring in and then wound the spring tight on itself before slotting it into the slit in the casting. Now the capstan is very positive. It takes a measure of force to depress the Quill and Spindle assemble and when you let go of the capstan the Quill and Spindle assemble retracts completely into the casting in a very positive manor.

IMG_4968.jpg

QUESTION - Is it possible to mount the drill press on heavy duty casters? I am thinking it would get me much needed mobility & height. But would it compromise stability. The drill press is very top heavy and having rolling feet maybe inviting disaster. Thoughts?


To Do List

• Cut 1/2" Stainless rod & cut 1/2" BSW thread on them
• Make a cardboard mockup of the backing plate
• Get the backing plate laser cut
• Install the backing plate
• Make OR find replacement knob for capstan level assembly
• Purchase and install a latch for the sheetmetal enclosure
• Purchase a thick rubber matt to rest the drill press on.
• Strip paint from motor
• Shorten the 3 phase power cable (its way to long)
• Paint the motor housing
• Reassemble motor
• Mount motor back to the drill press.
• Drink a bottle Islay Whiskey.

Costing (So Far)

• $390 Drill Press
• $200 Variable Frequency Drive
• $040 Poly Strip Discs & wire brush wheel from http://www.smithandarrow.com.au
• $040 Sisal Mop, Calico Loose Flap Wheel & compounds from http://www.polish-up.com.au
• $002.5 3 Phase 4 core cable
• $012 Round Electrical lugs
• $012 Forked Electrical lugs
• $040 Crimping Tool
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 60 Grit Coarse Sanding Flap Wheel
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 120 Grit Fine Sanding Flap Wheel
• $006 Grease
• $025 1/2" BSW Die
• $050 Postage Costs
• $060 Repairs to the sheet metal enclosure
• $400 Powder Coating
• $090 Kapex Internial & External Circlip Pliers
• $002 Circlips
• $010 Wet & Dry Paper
• $050 Replacement ball bearing on spindle & upper housing
• $035 Chuck Arbor
• $020 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever.
• $130 Three stainless steel ball knobs with 1/2" BSW thread
• $1 External Circlip 10.9mm
• $100 Stainless Steel Backing Plate
• $50 Rubber Mat
• $10 Latch

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
$1767.52 TOTAL

The drill press is coming along very nicely, especially the table
Mounting the drill press on a heavy duty base is a good idea, as it can be moved around as required. I have seen an idea where a drawer unit had been built around the column, allowing it to be removed to access the full length column. Will try to find it again if you'd like a copy. PM me with an address for snail mail delivery, as I dunno how to scan it on to here.
Kryn

If the spring is too tight or too loose, you just unwind with the arbour and then (carefully!) partially sliding out the pinion/handle spindle - just so the spring inner end is no longer in the slot. You then turn that spindle by half a turn one way or the other and carefully push it back i, so the inner spring end goes back into the slot in the new position. Test it, readjust and when happy, fill the spring with some grease in between windings, put on the cover and the circlip. Done.
If you mess it up and the spring jumps out, you will have a bugger of a job - as you probably already know

PS: I'd be very hesitant putting a drill press on a movable stand! I'd rather bolt it down with at least two bolts.
You could of course do BOTH. Put it on a stand and have internally threaded anchors in the concrete where you would normally use it. Take the bolts out to move it out of the way.
The issue isn't just the top heavy drill press, but even more importantly the workpiece you put on it to drill. If it starts tipping while you are loading a cast iron cylinder head on the table, you wouldn't have enough hands or strength to stop one or the other falling! Would be a great pity given the effort and money you spent on it.

Joe I will grease and reassemble the spring tomorrow.

I have pretty much opted not to have a movable drill press. The drill press is so top heavy if I slapped it I fear it would topple over.

I rent, so drilling into the concrete floor is problematic. I however may not have a choice.

I was thinking of purchasing a heavy rubber mat to dampen vibration.

Kryn thanks for the offer but the idea of cabinet around the column is not my thing. I have plenty of storage space.

I will however need to make a ply top for the table with fence, hold downs and dust extraction.

It has been a while since I updated this thread, but I finally made a few small forward steps.

I attached a stainless latch to the sheetmetal hood, bought it from Hong Kong for $4 including postage.

IMG_4980.jpg

I needed to bend the latch part so it would go around the lip of the sheet metal but that was a simple task.

I also purchased a 12mm thick heavy rubber mat it cost me $35 and while it did little for vibration and stability it will protect the powder coating from chipping off on the concrete.

IMG_4981.jpg

I want to replace the nameplate for the machine with a new mint condition one. The old one just detracts from all the effort I have put into restoration. So I have sought quotes from a bunch of companies.

I contacted Waldown / Brobo to see if they had any new old stock of the name plates. But to no luck.


IMG_4972.jpg Waldown Name Plate CAD.png


Due to the xmas holiday many companies are still not working yet. I am still waiting on the laser cutter to cut my backing plate for the VFD. I found a local mob who will do it for $55.

I also need to purchase some 12mm dynabolts and drill some holes the the floor to secure the drill press.

Also the powder coater still has not finished a stuff up he made its been almost 8 weeks, due the xmas holidays. The did not coat the capstan correctly so he is redoing it but he always says the end of this week.

IMG_4956.jpg

So while the drill press is running without the capstan I have no way of actually depressing the spindle and therefor no way of actually drilling a hole.

Lastly I have been struggling with rust forming on the exposed cast iron table and foot. I tried wax and rust inhibits but to no avail. After a little search I found that tung oil was traditionally used to prevent rust on exposed cast iron. Pure tung oil did not work (it would not dry), but when diluted with some turpentine it dried within 48 hours. I applied a few coats and now I have no more rust forming on my show surfaces. I think some clear Polyurethane varnish would work even better.

To Do List

• Cut 1/2" Stainless rod & cut 1/2" BSW thread on them
• Get the backing plate laser cut
• Install the backing plate
• Make OR find replacement knob for capstan level assembly
• Purchase and install a latch for the sheetmetal enclosure
• Strip paint from motor
• Shorten the 3 phase power cable (its way to long)
• Paint the motor housing
• Drink a bottle Islay Whiskey.

Costing (So Far)

• $390 Drill Press
• $200 Variable Frequency Drive
• $040 Poly Strip Discs & wire brush wheel from http://www.smithandarrow.com.au
• $040 Sisal Mop, Calico Loose Flap Wheel & compounds from http://www.polish-up.com.au
• $002.5 3 Phase 4 core cable
• $012 Round Electrical lugs
• $012 Forked Electrical lugs
• $040 Crimping Tool
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 60 Grit Coarse Sanding Flap Wheel
• $011.51 Josco 60mm 120 Grit Fine Sanding Flap Wheel
• $006 Grease
• $025 1/2" BSW Die
• $050 Postage Costs
• $060 Repairs to the sheet metal enclosure
• $400 Powder Coating
• $090 Kapex Internial & External Circlip Pliers
• $002 Circlips
• $010 Wet & Dry Paper
• $050 Replacement ball bearing on spindle & upper housing
• $035 Chuck Arbor
  
• $1 External Circlip 10.9mm
• $35 Rubber Mat
• $04 Latch
• $020 1/2" Stainless Steel Rod for capstan lever.
• $130 Three stainless steel ball knobs with 1/2" BSW thread
• $005 12mm x 125mm Dynabolts (x2)
• $013 Sutton Tools 12 x 120mm SF TCT Masonry Drill Bit
• $055 Stainless Steel Backing Plate

Would this look better? Not EXACTLY the same fonts, but a lot closer...
Waldown Name Plate CAD.jpg

Joe - What Fonts are they?

The problem I am going to face is to get someone to make 1 of these nameplates. So far the manufacturers want a minimum order of 250 plates.

Maybe I will have to have an engraved plate made.

You can now get printable decal paper. Spray a plate with gloss enamel and print your own text.
5 Inkjet Clear AND White Water Slide Decal Paper A4 Sheets Craft Transfer Glossy | eBay

Thanks for the info.

I might scan the nameplate.

Repair the defects in photoshop, then print. Then transfer to an aluminium plate.

Read the notes on the ebay page, if I have no luck this might well be the option.

Can you explain the process in more detail?

Is it like a transfer. Print on paper and transfer it on to metal? Any you tube vids?

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

The drill press is coming along very nicely, especially the table
Mounting the drill press on a heavy duty base is a good idea, as it can be moved around as required. I have seen an idea where a drawer unit had been built around the column, allowing it to be removed to access the full length column. Will try to find it again if you'd like a copy. PM me with an address for snail mail delivery, as I dunno how to scan it on to here.
Kryn

Sounds intereting. Bring some picks to the GTG if you like and any other ideas and things you want to share

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

I am seeking options on table for my drill press.

My two options are MDF and Ply.

MDF

MDF is cheap a 25 mm sheet is only $52.27
MDF has been known to sag and it will be overhanging the cast iron table 180 mm on either side.
MDF does not take screw so T slot tracks are harder to secure.
MDF chips crumbles on the edges since it has no grain. I would edge lip with oak.

Plywood

Birch Ply is expensive a 12 mm sheet is $160.95.
Birch Ply is expensive a 24 mm sheet is $240.12.
Birch Ply as far as I have read sometimes does not respond well to gluing together it can bow and warp. Due to moisture differential between the glued and unglued faces.

Can anyone give some experience between A/A Hoop, Birch & pine ply?

I was thinking to glue together three 12mm pieces OR two pieces at 24mm of sheet material together to make a thick top above and wrap around around the cast iron table.


Screen Shot 2016-01-26 at 3.20.44 PM.png

I want to secure the table in the following manner.

100701-01.jpg

Checkout Gumtree for some marine ply offcuts.
Cabinet shops usually throw out pieces big enough for the job.
Have you considered threaded inserts underneath to attach the table?