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  1. #1
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    Default Waldown 1962 Drill Press Restoration WIP

    Last week I purchased a 1962 Walden Drill Press and I have set about restoring it. This thread is an outcropping from this thread, I was advised I might get more help over this way in regards to my restoration questions. The drill press came with a three phase motor which I will stick to however we will be outfitting the machine with a VFD 240 to 400v.

    This is what the DP looked like when I got it:


    IMG_7588.JPG IMG_7587.JPGIMG_7592.JPGIMG_7591.JPGIMG_7589.JPG

    Had a go at stripping some of the worst rust and paint of the sheet metal enclosure and a little bit from the casting. Just to see how it would take. It took my 2 hours to get it this stage about 1/10 done, I used a wire brush in a hand drill to remove the loose stuff and a drum sander attached to the drill again. If I was to do it all with abrasives I suspect that it would be close to 20 hours of work to do the whole drill press. There are still deep pitting that has not come out from the sheet metal.

    Tannic Acid Rust Remover has been suggested and I am looking into it for the sheet metal hood.

    Here are some photos.

    IMG_4607.jpgIMG_4606.jpegIMG_4605.jpegIMG_4604.jpgIMG_4603.jpgIMG_4602.jpg

    The original motor that came with the drill press worked however it was a grease mess. So I decided to use another 3phase motor from the same era to replace it i.e. this one.

    Here are the details:

    Horsepower 0.75
    RPM 1440
    Volts 400
    Amps 15
    Rating Continues
    Wind Star

    0 - 1.jpg01.jpg02.jpg04.jpg


    I have now disassembled the whole drill press.

    I am now I working on polishing the smaller components.

    This is the first piece that I have restored to my basic satisfaction.

    Originally it had a few dings and pitting. The I left some of the pitting on the surface with the numbers as I did not want to abrade off the markings.

    I removed the dings using a lapping plate and same wet and dry from 80 grit to 600 grit, then I polished with Autosol Metal Polish. Its not perfect in that there are some errant scratches so I am thinking of giving it a light buff with a buffing wheel using the bench grinder. There are a few minor dings on the very edge were the knurling starts, again I left them as I did not want to damage the knurling.

    It took about 3 hours.

    0 - 4.jpg0 - 3.jpg0 - 2.jpg0 - 1.jpg

    I used some kerosene to strip the grease off the spindle, I also removed the surface rust from the morse taper. However it would require a huge amount of abrasives to fully restore, however since the morse taper is broken I will need to replace it.

    Jhovel was right, 2nd Morse Taper is broken that is why the nuts were inserted to hold the chuck. The problem is that the c-clip is broken, I had a look online on how to remove the C-clip and the methods are rather drastic involving grinding into the c-clip with an angle grinder, does anyone have a less dramatic solution? It looks like I will need to replace the morse taper the chuck however is a nice Jacobs Chuck Made in English Sheffield, so I am thinking of cleaning and reusing.

    0 - 9.jpg0 - 8.jpg

    There is some damage to this component I do not know the name. One of the teeth has been badly chipped, others have minor chips, will this be bad enough to hinder my machine. Can this be replaced?

    0 - 5.jpg0 - 6.jpg

    I placed my order for the Powtran VFD, it should arrive end of this coming week I am told.

    I also notice this,
    is this normal or bad? The tenons are not parallel. This holds one end of the quill spring.

    0 - 7.jpg

    Here are photos of the disassembled drill press major components on the floor, with the smaller pieces on a makeshift table. I used kerosene to strip most of the grease off the parts however the cast iron head of the drill press is caked on with 50 years of grease I will need to get a proper degreaser and a wire brush to scrub the inside clean. The grease is mixed with metal shavings and I do not want them working there way into something critical.

    I made progress on a few small components they are cleaning up nicely over the next few days I will have them finished. I have ordered a few Poly Strip Disk from Smith & Arrow to use with an angle grinder I am hoping that they will help me strip the paint and rust of the major components. I will also getting a few soft wheels and wire brush wheel for cleaning up the smaller components.

    IMG_4628.jpgIMG_4627.jpg
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  3. #2
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    This morning my Poly Strip Discs arrived from Smith And Arrow. They did not disappoint it took me 4 hours to strip all the rust & paint from most of the drill press. The Poly Strip Discs are aggressive enough to strip down to raw metal and leaves a dull shine for a finish, without eating away the metal itself. I then used a wire brush wheel on the bench grinder to sneak into those corners were the Poly Strip Discs could not reach. The hinge was particularly problematic.

    I plan to get or make some Tannic Acid rust inhibitor. Then to coat the whole machine a few time with it to kill any remnant rust.

    Once I was done I coated every surface with a heavy coat of rust inhibiting oil.

    The next step is to get a wire cup cone to fit the angle grinder, as I need to removed the paint and rust on the underside of the cast iron foot and table. Because of the ribs in the casting the Poly Strip Discs could not get access. I will also need to buy some degreaser and wire brushes to get into all the nocks and holes that need a good clean.

    I had a go at cleaning up the post a little more, I will not bother to make it shine as I want to replace it with a 1.8m pole.

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    Thought this may help if your motivation lags.
    http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/casey...olt/1080241125
    IMG_4633.jpg IMG_4634.jpg IMG_4632.jpg

    IMG_4636.jpg IMG_4644.jpg

    IMG_4638.jpg IMG_4639.jpg IMG_4641.jpg IMG_4640.jpg
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  4. #3
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    Today I bought replacement bolts for all of the parts. The old ones were worn and not in perfect order. However it became clear that the machine has a few bolt on it that I have know clue what they do (many of the threaded holes were missing the bolt). Here are some photos with red circles, can anyone tell me what these holes / bolts are for?

    IMG_4676.jpg

    At the rear of the head casting is two holes, the seem to have no function as there is another big bolt that secures the head to the post, any ideas? Maybe to secure the plate that hold the ON/OFF switch?

    IMG_4677.jpg

    These two holes are on the front of the head casting just below the sheetmetal enclosure, any ideas?

    IMG_4679.jpg

    These two items look like pins on the right hand side of the casting, any ideas?

    IMG_4680.jpg

    The major task for today was to take apart the quill and the spindle. Regrettable the c-clip that held it together was broken and it took two yours of prodding and pocking to finally get the bugger out. However it is done, I want to replace the bearings, while there was no wobble there was a gritty sound coming from the quill and the spindle and while I have easy access to it all I might as well replace the bearings.

    For fun I reassembled the whole drill press, it gives me as sense of achievement at the end of the day and a feeling that I am moving forward. At this point all that remains is fitting the motor, the VFD and the powder coating.

    IMG_4684.jpg IMG_4683.jpg

    I made some progress regarding finding an electrician to connect the VFD to the motor. I however fear it will cost me more for the electrician then the drill press itself.

    I have contacted Brobo Waldown to see if they can sell me a replacement plastic handle, that was been mauled to death.

  5. #4
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    TS I just had a look at a previous post and the motor you intend to use is wound in star. You would need to have the star point brought out to the terminal strip to connect it to a VFD.
    A motor rewinder can do this for you. It shouldn't cost too much. I had three motors done at the same time for a total of $80. I had stripped all the motors down though and just took the stators in.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    Today I bought replacement bolts for all of the parts.
    Hi TS. Being a 1962 drill, I'm assuming all the bolts were BSW or similar. Where did you source replacements (do Waldown have stocks of Whitworth bolts)?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #6
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    NCArcher - I know less then zero about electronics - that is why I am getting an electrician to do the job. $$$

    Vann - I have a local fasteners shop around the corner from me, its an old family business, he has tons of old stuff.

  8. #7
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    TS you are making fast work of this project. I am a fan of the Waldown drill presses, I started off with a 2M, then before I knew it I also had a 3M, radial arm, and 8SN (although this one is more parts than anything).

    Looking at your images, I think the 8SN may be of similar age, and if no one else can help, I will try to get some time to have a look at mine and see if I can identify what some of these bolts are for (although I probably won't get to it for a few days).

    Regarding the bearings, it might be worth confirming what bearings are in it (if your not sure) before tearing into it, just in case they are hard to find or expensive bearings to replace.


    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    TS I just had a look at a previous post and the motor you intend to use is wound in star. You would need to have the star point brought out to the terminal strip to connect it to a VFD.
    A motor rewinder can do this for you. It shouldn't cost too much. I had three motors done at the same time for a total of $80. I had stripped all the motors down though and just took the stators in.
    Without hijacking the post, I've got a motor on my BZL lathe that I am considering hooking up to a VFD. The motor is set up to run off 400-440v (on the plate). Am I right in assuming that the idea is to change the motor to Delta, to make it 240V 3 phase, so it can be run off the common VFD's? If so, do you know if there is anything that might prevent me from modifying the BZL motor (or is this possible with all 3 phase motors)?

    Cheers,

    Camo

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    Without hijacking the post, I've got a motor on my BZL lathe that I am considering hooking up to a VFD. The motor is set up to run off 400-440v (on the plate). Am I right in assuming that the idea is to change the motor to Delta, to make it 240V 3 phase, so it can be run off the common VFD's? If so, do you know if there is anything that might prevent me from modifying the BZL motor (or is this possible with all 3 phase motors)?

    Cheers,

    Camo
    Cam, you only have to change the motor to delta and run it off 220V 3 phase if you need to use a single phase to 3 phase VFD. If you already have 3 phase supply you are good to go with a 3 phase input VFD. You should be able to modify any 3 phase motor. You just need all 6 leads from the 3 coils brought out to the terminal box. If the motor is connected in star then one side of each of the coils is joined together at the 'star' point. This is often buried in the windings and needs to be separated and 3 new leads attached. I know some forum members have successfully done this themselves but if you are not confidant or don't have the right gear it doesn't cost too much to have it done at a motor rewinder. And bear in mind that the more work you do for them the less it will cost. Disassemble the motor and just take the stator in. Replace the bearings while you have it apart.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  10. #9
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    NCArcher - Thanks for explanation of star versus delta. I have an electrician coming to look at the motor next Thursday, I have explained him what I want and he says it is an easy job.

    Camo - you seem to know your Waldowns, can you tell me what types mine is? I am thinking 8SN? It would be appreciated if you could help with the identification of the holes.

    I will be purchasing a new spindle and bearings from Brobo-Waldown at $254.00+GST+Shipping it comes with new bearings. As the old one has its morse taper damaged, then they drilled holes into it to fit grub screws to hold the chuck and then it was badly rusted to boot.

    Question - I have cleaned the machine up now in the process removing all the old grease. What grease should I buy and how & were should I apply it?

    To Do List


    • Polish small items - the buffing wheels and compounds came this morning.
    • Restore the Jacobs Chuck. Will purchase new one in time, but at $450 a pop it will have to wait.
    • Buy and fit replacement spindle & bearings.
    • Convert Motor from Star to Delta and connect to VFD - Electrician.
    • Fill table holes - Liquid metal has been suggested but it looks messy and its only epoxy. I think I will drill out the holes so they are clean then weld in steel rod.
    • Surface Grind table top and foot. To many dings. This would require finding a local mob to do this for me.
    • Powder Coating - currently talking with a shop to do this, he says we will need to get it at least plastic bead blasted, to ensure good adhesion for the powder coating. This would entail plugging all the holes so that the abrasive particles do not damage critical sized components.
    • Oil & Assemble.
    • Drink of a bottle Islay Whiskey.


    Costing (So Far)



  11. #10
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    Hi,

    This is my first post here, so we'll see if the photos upload.

    I have a similar drill to this Waldown, but I'm afraid that I can't help with what those screws are for apart from suggesting they might be for oilers or grease nipples. However, what I can see from your photos is that mine is missing a name plate - thanks.

    I purchased my drill second hand in the early 80s, and it never had the original belt guard. I'd love to locate an original guard as the quick and dirty one I added recently because some students were coming to use my workshop looks dreadful. My drill needs a constant supply of heavy gearbox oil on the quill spline that emerges from the top of the front of the drill, otherwise it rattles so badly the keyless chuck works loose! It's a great drill though - I'd never change it for a new Chinese machine.

    Graham.
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    I can answer the question of the bolt in the first image. It should be stepped down on the tip, and fits into a groove on the feed shaft to retain it in position.

    The second photo the two between the motor mount plate and the head are on all of them but never seem to do anything. May have something to do with models with intermediate pulley set up??
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  13. #12
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    You will find the answers to some of your questions in this thread
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/waldown-restoration-190392


    This post shows the first bolt you asked about
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...28#post1853928
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post

    I have contacted Brobo Waldown to see if they can sell me a replacement plastic handle, that was been mauled to death.

    If you are talking about the round plastic knobs, I got some here for an old Speedax bandsaw I'm restoring:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2Pcs-40mm...item4d29869eee

    I will need to epoxy up the M12 thread and re-thread it for imperial.

    Locally, D&D Barry stock a range of knobs at reasonable prices: http://www.ddbarry.com.au/shop/din-s...knobs/din-319/


    Graham.

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    Thanks DSEL74 for explaining bolt 01. So another task, find someone to turn down the bolt.

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I can answer the question of the bolt in the first image. It should be stepped down on the tip, and fits into a groove on the feed shaft to retain it in position.
    Graham - not the balls but the plastic dial that sits on the right hand side of the press that holds the whole mechanism together - I am ambivalent about the $50 replacement from Brobo Waldown. I was thinking that it would be cool to have one made up from bronze or brass. Or even turn one from nice wood then insert the old thread it into the wooden replacement.

    We really need a simple list for all the names for a drill press. Even online catalogues for parts tend to make names up or simple give the thing a catalog number.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbikerider View Post
    apart from suggesting they might be for oilers or grease nipples.
    I can confirm that they are not nipples, as there are a few of them around the place, the nipples are much smaller and they are countersunk, were the holes I asked about have threads and flush with the surface.

    Graham - thanks for the link to D&D Barry.

    Out of Interest I made enquires about a replacement post at 63.5mm stainless steel. No one would sell anything more then 1.5mm wall thickness, a solid 2 meter long bright finish stainless rod would cost $400. So much for curiosity.

    Today I started polishing the few items using a sisal mop and a grey fast cutting compound. It works really well. However it will take a few days of buffing to finish a few items to a high shine.

  16. #15
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    Now that I'm on the computer and not the looking at the forum on the phone I think the two pins on the RHS of the drill are where the thin printed aluminium badge goes that usually labels the drill "8SN II"


    Although yours look in a slightly different location more above the depth gauge. In the second photo above I think you can just make out the hole in the casting under the pulley cover.


    More threads to look at:

    Jhovel's resto log starts here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...88#post1737188
    Ray's thread also has lots of detail photos for you here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...hlight=Waldown
    This thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/waldown-time-tart-141279 from Bob has even more detailed photos for you....
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

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