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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    Howdy Andrew,

    Thanks for the feedback!

    The idea got mixed up with the bottom thickness. It was meant to be 6mm with runners on the outside or 9mm with no runners.

    It is probably impossible to build a deck as light as the original plywood one out of strip.

    Remember the ply is 4mm and is a very light species. The strip deck will be about 5 and a bit with glass on both sides and the timber species would not be quite as light. You really would have to use Western Red Cedar or Paulownia to keep the weight down to near the original. The strips could be relatively wide because of the low curvature.

    Weight saving is a case of getting every step right in terms of weight saving

    I would recommend strips no thinner than 5mm and no thicker than 6mm. The glass would be 70gsm (2 oz) on both sides of the cedar with an extra layer on top of the deck on the side decks either side of the cockpit.

    Another sneaky way is to epoxy seal and sand the plywood deck then pay someone to paint pinstriping on the timber then varnish over. It can be quite effective.



    Actually something like this could work very nicely for a ply deck - you could do a constant margin around the deck in black or some other dark colour which will hide the ply join (which is why it is used on the speedboat here) and then get the remainder pinstriped just like the speedboat.

    Would look pretty cool on a skinny boat like BETH.

    MIK
    Storer Boat Plans' photosets on Flickr

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    I've seen decks as Mik describes and 95% of the folks looking at it think it's a caulked deck. I find these faux treatments a mixed bag. One way around this is to rip pieces of plywood into decking widths. A deck I did like this recently was designed to be 1/4" (6 mm) plywood over stringers. My version, which was to have the laid deck look, used an 1/8" (3 mm) plywood sub deck, applied over the stringers, just like the 1/4" stock was supposed to be. Over this I epoxied more 1/8" plywood, ripped to the board widths desired. I left gaps and even used tile layer's spacers, to insure they had uniform gaps. I mixed up the ripped pieces of plywood, so the grain didn't match, from piece to adjoining piece (a dead give away on a faux deck), then filled the grooves with thickened epoxy and white pigment. The result was a deck that looked caulked, even with shallow depressions along each caulk line. The whole thing was varnished and it's just as strong and weighs nearly the same, as the original 1/4" thick deck it replaced. I even got fancy, nibbing the king plank and margin boards, plus fancy curved notched scarfs. The deck area was Okoume, while the margins and king planks where meranti. The sub deck layer was all meranti. Making a deck like this is light and because the material is so thin, you can carve it up into fairly intricate shapes, pretty easily. It's almost like doing veneer work. I have new 20' boat for myself, I'll be starting soon and it'll have this treatment on it.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    Thanks Paul!

    For the builder, Andrew ... the biggest problem with making these types of changes is the weight.

    A canoe that is heavier than need be is heartbreaking and Beth of gaboon is just barely ok for one person to lug if he is not too old!

    I used to do it but couldn't possibly do it now.

    But every pound makes the boat harder to lift and just a little bit slower. Like I said ... you really have to consider the weight at every point in the build.

    MIK

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Then maybe veneers, as they don't weigh much and fitting them in fancy patterns is as easy as cutting toast.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Northeastern U.S
    Posts
    13

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    Thanks for the thoughtful answers and caution, Mik, now that I've gone ahead and bought all that lovely okoume I think I'll save the stripping for my next 'yak.

    I lay down the points for side panels yesterday: tremendously exciting process (which gives some idea what a geek I'm becoming) which begins to reveal the actual proportions of Beth. I find it a weird and revelatory experience. I actually found myself questioning my ruler and double and triple checking the first few measurements because I couldn't believe how low the sides are...the Laser comparison suddenly makes more sense...Beth is extremely lean and fine boned.

    Anyway I found myself with another plans question. The diagram seems to be missing the baseline to bottom edge distance for the station just aft of bulkhead #2. Lacking this, I figure I can just fake it by running the fairing batten through, but I'd love to have that number!

  7. #21
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    Jan 2012
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    Northeastern U.S
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    By the way I'm specifically talking about the diagram for the side panels!

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrotch View Post
    Anyway I found myself with another plans question. The diagram seems to be missing the baseline to bottom edge distance for the station just aft of bulkhead #2. Lacking this, I figure I can just fake it by running the fairing batten through, but I'd love to have that number!
    Nowadays I would have fewer measurement points, so yes, you could just let the batten run through unfettered. If you stand at the end and sight down the batten you will see any wobbles that are there.

    MIK

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
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    67
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    805

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    Sheerclamps???

    alrotch, there you can see my build and these parts:

    Flickr: robhosailor's Photostream


    Sheerclamsbewel03 by robhosailor, on Flickr

    Flickr: robhosailor's Photostream

    Enjoy and Good Luck!
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


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