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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post

    Regarding the cherry, here's another thought: the British GIS "Sneaky Shark" has an interesting boom that you might play of off. Many of us have experimented with a box section boom with plywood sides. Sneaky has a rectangular section boom of lumber (Doug Fir I think) but with lateral slots cut out, creating a truss form that's lighter than a solid lumber spar. Now that it's proven, you might do a prettier version that would really highlight the cherry.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I like this idea. Have you seen any pictures of the Sneaky Shark boom? I see a bunch of pictures of the boat on flickr and on his blog, but none of the boom.

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  3. #17
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    This video has some good views of the reduced boom:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLEOw_NRprs

  4. #18
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    I think this video is where I saw it.

    Another thought is to do bright finished foils and mix the cherry with a light species. Maybe some of the rich beauty will get muddle under the fiberglass, but I bet it would still be pretty.


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    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  5. #19
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    We made some progress over the weekend.
    Drew up and cut out the transom and some of the bulkheads. Also drew out the first side panel. We had a hiccup drawing the chine line. When we laid down the batten, it would only fit if we allowed it to bend in a slight S-curve. We quadruple checked all measurements and they were correct. The area that seemed to be the problem was the aft portion of the chine line, which wanted to be concave rather than convex like rest of the chine line. This picture shows the 3 nails that are trying to make a concave curve.

    IMG_20150329_185136007.jpg

    We were about to unclamp the batten from these nails and allow it to make a nice smooth C-curve, when we noticed that the plans also seem to show a very slight S-curve. That's seen in this picture:

    IMG_20150329_185344344.jpg


    So we brought the question to Facebook, which quickly resolved it: The S-curve is supposed to be there. Apparently a lot of people have been thrown off by this when drawing the side panels.

  6. #20
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    This complex shape has sometimes been referred to as MIK's secret sauce. The outcome in 3D provides just the right blend of wetted surface versus displacement versus exit angle versus who-knows-what else under a variety of hull loads from skinny single-hander to multiple American (i.e. plus-sized) crew.

    As a side note, the bottom panels has some sorcery in the plans too, but in truth (what I've referred to as MIK's dirty little secret) is that the bottom panel's shape will be defined by the sides and the bulkheads. Laying down the lines for the bottom is important to ensure you make the most of the ply sheet, but since the plans call for a generous margin when cutting, the lines themselves never really come into play; you will trim the bottom to fit regardless what lines you draw.

    That's my advance-warning tip of the day.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  7. #21
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    Got the side panels cut out an planed today. That S-curve looks really nice sighting along the planed edge.

    On a side note, what domestic US wood would folks suggest to use for the skids and gunwale caps?I'd like to avoid tropical hardwoods (with the large exception of all that okoumé). I think white oak is out, because I'm not excited about the idea of trying to epoxy it. Cherry is probably out because I don't think it would hold up well to banging around in L.I. Sound. I have a bit of walnut lying around, but I would hate to hide it under the hull paint (and I'm superstitious). Maybe I could use ash for the gunwale caps? But would ash be acceptable under water for the skids?
    What are other woods I should consider?

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