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  1. #61
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    Nice. Must just be an eye for quality Alan.

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  3. #62
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    Oct 2014
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    Well, the mast is taped up, three coats of epoxy inside. The yard has three coats wet-on-wet and tape on the ends and the tiller has been given its coats. Tomorrow, we round the mast. Then I'll really be running out of reasons not to build the boat.
    Do still need to make chine logs and gunwales though.

  4. #63
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    I will try to post pics later, but I glued up the side panels and cut down and scarfed up the chine logs today. They're all curing in the garage. That means I have only to attach the chine logs and I'm ready to go 3D.
    The plans seem to imply that you could attach the butt blocks and chine logs at the same time, but I could see no way to do that without making a hash of the butt joints.
    My plan is to screw the chine logs down from the outside while the epoxy cures, and that will require turning the side panels upside down, which seemed impossible before the butt joints are cured.
    I also wet out the edges of the ply under the butt blocks. The plans don't instruct you to put any epoxy between the edges of the side panels, but I just couldn't not at least try to fill those joins. What did others do at this stage?

  5. #64
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    Let's see if these work. Putting them on the floor was the only way to get enough space for them both.

  6. #65
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    I think I did just as you've described. I recall laying down wax paper under the seam while the butt blocks cured. I think I made an effort to force glue into the seam. I certainly didn't try to lay the chine logs down at the same time. I don't think I had the chine logs cut yet! If you haven't done so, consider beveling the top edge of the chine logs. It helps shed water into the sole. I set my table saw to a 10 or 15 degree angle and ran the chine log through. That worked out well for me, but I had not yet notched out the bulkheads yet either.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  7. #66
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    Thanks Dave. I was planning on doing it. I think I saw Clint talk about it at some point. I have not yet cut my bulkhead cutouts. Because I was waiting until I'd cut my chine logs.
    My tentative plan was to cut a 10mm bevel in the top to match the bottom bevel.

  8. #67
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    Dec 2011
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    I did the sides in two steps. I was intending for the seams to be full of glue but I didn't go out of my way to fill them with glue, and no surprise they came out short of epoxy on the underside. When I joined the bottom together I started with the sheets apart so i could make sure there was plenty of epoxy in there.

    Beveling the chines is a good idea. Mine were already glued on before I remembered that I thought beveling them was a good idea.

  9. #68
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  10. #69
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    Lookin good. My main tip would be to double and triple check that you've glued and screwed the bulkheads into the correct spots. Sounds obvious enough, but I managed to glue a few in crooked by a few mm's here and there. Once you spread the glue you lose a lot of your marked lines, and I carefully rescrewed every screw back in by hand to make sure I sent it into the hole that was already there from the dry fit, but that's not what happened on a number of occasions. Cedar is so soft, and in the heat of the moment driving a screw into new wood feels pretty much the same as driving it into a preexisting hole.

  11. #70
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    Thanks Poit. I already noticed this problem with the chine logs. I could not tell whether I was hitting my dry fit holes, and I had to redo both sides. Aggravating.

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