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  1. #16
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    Thanks Paulie. I decided when I had the rudder box dry fit that I really needed to know the dimensions of my foils before I start gluing thugs together. Also will allow me to assemble the center case, for which I've made the sides but not the spacers.
    I do have a planer, but I think I'd rather make staves anyway. The cedar is big box store cedar of indifferent quality and I wouldn't want to deal with warped foils.

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  3. #17
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    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1421017759.674363.jpg
    Here is my tiller dry fit. One of the rudder box cheeks is a little warped, but I figure it can be straightened when glued and bolted to the tiller and spacer.

  4. #18
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    How much does it matter if there are knots in my foil staves?

  5. #19
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    Jan 2012
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    Perth, Australia
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    Structurally it shouldn't make much of a difference as they're supported on 2 sides by other pieces, that is if they're small and sound. However it will make planing them to shape a painful task. Additionally it'll mar the finish if you're going clear coat.

    Cheers Dan

  6. #20
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    Thanks.

    I gave up trying to make my big box cedar work. The local lumberyard had some lovely WRC, clear and straight-grained. Cost a king's ransom. Couldn't build a whole boat at those prices, but I decided to splurge on my foils. I should be able to get the rest of the framing I need out of the offcuts too.
    I bought two 8' boards, 5/4th x 10", and cut them into 60mm staves:


    My 1x10s (really 5/4s) gave me 6 staves 51" long. I laid them out and measured, and of course it was too wide. I only needed 5. I knew that when I chose 60mm for the staves. Really.

    The idea is to glue up the cedar and plane it to thickness first, then add the oak. I have a 12" planer, so 300mm is about all I can fit through it.

    Actually, before ripping it, I cut the boards in 2--one 51" piece and one 45" inch piece. I wanted to make them easier to rip, as well as giving me a little flexibility in using the wood. I only needed four of the shorter staves to make the rudder, so I have a wider 45" piece to use somewhere.

    Gluing up. Rudder first:


    I'm using MAS epoxy bought from CLC. It comes with pumps that are supposed to dispense in the required 2:1 ratio. I started with 10 pumps each of resin and hardener, and added several teaspoons of wood floor (Mik specifies some sort of low-density thickener) after first mixing the epoxy together. I then tried to apply it to the edges of the staves with a stick used as a squeegee. This was only moderately successful. And I ran out of epoxy on the last stave.
    It's warm in my basement (where the epoxy bottles live) but cool in my garage, where I'm building. I went inside, mixed up a couple of pumps more of epoxy and sawdust, and finished spreading epoxy. Then put four clamps along the length of the rudder and got (I think) decent squeeze-out. Don't really know if I got the consistency right, or how much it matters in this application.

    For the centerboard, I decided to get a ziplock bag and try to get the epoxy on the edges like toothpaste.
    This was easier, but this batch of epoxy was runnier, and tended not to stop coming out when I stopped squeezing. So I still wasted a good deal of it.
    I had one extra stave to glue and an extra 6" of length, so I mixed up considerably more epoxy than for the rudder. But perhaps I was more efficient with the bag, as I had plenty left this time. So I figured I'd go ahead and glue up the tiller, which was prepared last week.
    That seemingly went uneventfully, although I realized belatedly I should probably have tried to precoat the inner surfaces with epoxy before gluing the sides together. Ah, well. Next time maybe. Note this is just the tiller. I won't do the rudder stock itself until the foils are done and I can confirm the thickness of it.

    This is a milestone of a sort for me--it's really the first time in this project I've attempted to stick anything together.
    I probably shouldn't have used my expensive WRC as a guinea pig on which to learn to epoxy. But you have to start somewhere, and it was either here or with the bulkheads, which would mean experimenting with my ply, also precious.

    Will report back after the epoxy sets. Fingers crossed!

  7. #21
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    Don't see cedar that nice often in Oz these days.

    Glad it is a good use!

    MIK

  8. #22
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    Well, I hope I don't make a hash of using it.

    Quezion about foil shaping--has anyone ever attempted to shape the bottoms of the foils, but leave the tops (the bits inside the center case or rudder stock when in use) rectangular? Any reason not to do so, other than weight?
    Thanks!

  9. #23
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    OK, bad day today.

    I thought I'd let my foils cure a bit and turned to gluing up bulkheads. Started with the transom. Plopped it down, marked off some framing (the transom top I'd earlier cut out of a 2x12 piece of doug fir I had), and cut it out. Before gluing, I went to look for my original lines, to check my work. The transom was the first thing I cut out, and I had made something of a hash of both the measuring work, which had to be redone twice, and the cutting, which wondered around a good deal.

    I thought in the end I'd gotten it more or less right, or so I recalled. But my remeasurement before gluing suggested otherwise.

    The port side angle seemed to be wrong, and different from the starboard. The 7mm margin was present on the starboard side but varied from 12 to 0 on the port side:

    Sorry for upside down pic.
    And, as a result in part of this, my transom doubler seems to be 7mm too short:
    As I said, the other side looks not too bad:

    So, I could glue it up as-is. I could make the whole transom a little bit narrower. Or I could recut the transom and the doubler. I do still have most of that extra half-sheet of ply, but I need to definitely get the center thwart out of that, possibly BHD1 too. And I was thinking about enclosing the center thwart for some added flotation, for which I'd need, in effect, ply for a BHD 2.5. So I'm already asking a lot of that "extra" half-sheet.
    That said, I certainly shouldn't screw this up. So should I just make up the transom a 1/4" narrow? Or start from the beginning? Thoughts?

  10. #24
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    Howdy,

    Pity about the transom problems. It is your call of course, but altering the transom shape will alter the shape of the sheer and bottom line in the back of the boat. You could make sure those are visually OK later.

    Flickr has an annoying habit of blocking photos we link to. But it can be avoided by just putting a link back to flickr somewhere in the text.

    I have it in my signature so I don't have to think about it.

    MIK

  11. #25
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    Added a sig. Did that help? Can anyone see the pics? I can, but maybe I'm the only one.

    If you can see the pic, it might make sense. The top edge of the transom is the "true width" of the transom--somehow I left out the 7mm margin. So I could recut the doubler, and since that tapers back to the true size anyway, I guess it wouldn't affect the lines if I glued the framing and doubler on as if I had the margin on the transom all around--that is, with an overlap for the framing.
    Or I could suck it up and recut it. Maybe I can recut BHD2 out of the transom reject and save some wood that way.
    I think I know what I should do. Just putting it off. Today I think I'll try to glue up the other bulkheads while I stew over it. DOn't think I'm going to try to pre-coat the other bulkheads wet-on-wet pre-assembly. It was too hard and messy the first time.
    OK, down to the garage to see how things look by the morning light.


  12. #26
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    Well, I did it, and I'm glad I did. My first transom was all messed up. The centerline wasn't perpendicular, the angles were different, etc.
    bhd2 was also miscut. And I could get bhd2 out of the bad transom so I bit the bullet.
    Doing bhd2 was much easier the second time

  13. #27
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    Premature post. I'm hopeful now, with what I've learned since I first laid out the transom, that I can do a much better job of it the second time. I just need to find the lumber for the doubler.

  14. #28
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    Here is the tiller, glued up and with the corners routed. My router tore out the doug fir in a couple of places, but I tried to fair those out.


  15. #29
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    Looks gorgeous to me! Prettier than mine, that's for sure.

  16. #30
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    Status report: the rest of the frames are glued to the rest of the bulkheads. They are all now drying. The rudder and centerboard are shaped, to the best of my ability anyway. I may have left the centerboard a trifle short by measuring wrong when I glued it up. But I think it only amounts to 20mm or so in the end. Pics of my progress to follow when I can sit down at a computer. Now I'm off on the road for several days again so there won't be much to report. I suppose what I'll do next is glass the foils, and make up the center case and rudder cheeks. Then I'll be out of "little" tasks and will have to find some long Doug fir for the gunwales and the spars. I'll need it for both, though I think I'll build the spars first so I have room to move around my garage during the procedure.

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