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  1. #46
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    Thanks Poit. I'll have to try that.
    I'm still working up the courage to glue up the mast. Also been on the road. Will let you guys know how it goes.
    And thanks Canoath for the info. Even as a licensed driver for two decades in the US I had to start from scratch in England.

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  3. #47
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    Jan 2012
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    Perth, Australia
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    I'll second Poit's recommendation on the syringes. They work well. I used 10ml ones from the local chemist/drugstore at about $1 a pop (I went through 4). Leave the holes until you've got a whole bunch to do. I think marking them with coloured masking tape as you find them would've helped rather than relying on memory to relocate them. (I seemed to be finding ones I missed right up until I'd finished varnishing.

    Cheers Dan

  4. #48
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    One more thing, with gluing up the mast I used cheap 4mm cable ties and packing tape. Get the good 8-10mm cable ties and get lots of them the cheap ones are frustrating at best as they break often. Spacing the cables at about 10cm intervals gave reasonable clamping pressure. The mast used two tubes of the cartridge epoxy glue (system 3 and west have it) with normal epoxy for coating everything else.

    A second pair of hands and a rudimentary jig to keep it straight also helps.

    Cheers Dan

  5. #49
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    Thanks again guys. Today I finally returned to the garage after leaving my glued-up center case to cure. I found this:

    The drips are near the stern end of the case, so they don't interfere with inserting or removing the board. But I can't think of a good way to remove them, and most of the bad ways would all de-encapsulate the inside of the case.
    So, do I just ignore it?
    The case has some other problems. The second side didn't quite go on square, so one side is perhaps 2mm higher than the other if you stand it up on the table. My thinking on that front is that I'll worry about it when I have a hull and can actually check the fit of it, rather than planing or sanding a bunch of material with nothing to measure it against.

  6. #50
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    Thanks again Dan. The cable ties are a great idea. I have my two teenage sons to drag into any big operations like this. In theory, this is a family project anyway.

    Before I glue up the staves, I think I'm going to try to stagger the scarfs--by adding more scarfs, naturally. Because I made the staves out of 8' stock, all the scarfs are currently in the center of the staves.

  7. #51
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    Aug 2010
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    New Jersey, USA
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    Your approach to the uneven center case makes sense to me. You will be removing material from its bottom to match the hull's curve (rocker) and the top can be capped with a decorative piece if need be; wait to cross that bridge until you get to it.

    I'm not sure what to say about the drips. Thanks to the foil shape, there should be no interference. But I think it would bother me. I carpeted the inner faces before assembly, but maybe you can fit a 3-4" strip back there (both sides) to cover the ooze.

    I'm a fan of staggered scarf joints. They say a proper scarf is stronger than the original lumber. I say spread the love.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  8. #52
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    Oct 2014
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    Well, today was not a great day either. Before I left last, I dry-fit my tiller and rudder stock pieces, and I was pretty pleased with the new arrangement. I drilled holes for the bolts and machine screws, and epoxied on the bottom arms:
    Build Thread: A Goat in New York-16530444572_eefe3c670a_c-jpg
    In the background of that pic is the old rudder stock, with the spacer glued down the wrong side.
    Anyway, today I redid the dry fit, and discovered that I'd glued those bottom arms on the wrong sides. That wouldn't matter if the holes in the tiller arm were exactly symmetrical, but, well, they're not. The front ones are, pretty much (they have to be), but the backmost holes in the tiller arm are slightly out of alignment with each other, so the holes in the tiller no longer line up with the carefully counter-sunk holes in the rudder stock cheeks.
    After some dithering, I decided to fill the holes in the cheeks with epoxy, let it cure, and redrill them. It's easier and less conspicuous than redrilling the tiller arms.
    Which, by the way, I've decided I should not have glued up as a unit prior to final assembly. But oh well. It's something I can work around.
    Since I had to mix up some epoxy for that, I went around and filled some other holes, or tried to. I'm still awaiting my order of syringes from Amazon.
    I was hoping to finish the tiller assembly today, but that will have to wait. I sort of futzed about otherwise, without really feeling up to any of my other big pending jobs--epoxy-coating the flip-sides of BHDs 2, 3 and 4, starting epoxy encapsulation of the transom, or gluing the side supports on the center case. That is not really a big job in itself, but it requires me to make certain irreversible decisions--do I pre-coat the whole center case with epoxy before gluing the arms down? How do I line up the arms, given that the bottom edges aren't aligned anyway? Does it matter that much? Probably not, but thinking about them made me hesitant and a little sad, so I put it off again.
    So, in the meantime, at Dave's request, here are some bikes:

    This is a carbon-fiber road bike with 2x10 SRAM gearing (and yes, Dave, a yummy Brooks saddle). It's light and fast and I think I need to sell it. I lived in London when I got it, and my lifestyle just allowed for more riding then than it does now, including some sporadic commuting by bike. In any case, it's not a very practical bike for anything other than exercise rides. You can't carry anything on it, it doesn't take fenders very easily and the tires are super-narrow.
    Which is why I built this:

    This is my pride and joy. It has 35mm slicks (well, near-slicks) for tires, disc brakes, an 11-speed internal-gear hub, a front wheel hub with built in dynamo to power the front-and-rear LED lights (which are bright enough to light up a road in the pitch dark), a chunky rear rack and big old fenders front and rear. The frame is steel, the bell is brass, the bike must weigh 35 pounds, and it's very nearly perfect. I didn't build the frame, but I assembled the whole thing to meet my specs, including lacing up my own wheels to get the gear hub, dynamo, disc-brake combo that I wanted. The frame is wide enough to take even bigger tires, and while these tires will last a long time yet, that is one of the mods I'll make when the time comes.
    And yes, it too has a Brooks (with springs!). There really is none better, and with the dollar soaring, you might find a deal on one this spring Dave.
    Alert readers will note that the front tire is on backwards, with the tread running the wrong way. I'm lazy.
    Lastly, here's a slightly better pic of that Schwin Twinn. I picked it up at a yard sale for a project, but it's a little bit down the list at the moment:

    OK, the pic isn't really better. And the bike keeps getting dustier. Behind the tandem is my last bike, an old Belgian hybrid that does a perfectly serviceable job of being an all-around bike. It does not have a Brooks saddle because I used to use it as a "station bike"--one I'd lock up at the Tube station. Anything valuable on a bike locked up at a London tube station is liable to be pinched, so I went into a bike store and said, "what's the cheapest, nastiest looking seat you have?" And that's the result.
    Now you know all, including how messy I am.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #53
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    Made some unmistakable progress yesterday. First up was the tiller assembly, Take-whatever-we're-up-to.
    It started out simply enough, with a little precoating of the insides of the rudder stock cheeks:

    The drill bits are there from redrilling the bolt holes.
    FWIW, I've taken to doing all my precoating with a $4 all-plastic HD squeegee. I have some rollers, but throwing them out after a single use seems wasteful, unless it's a really big area, and the squeegee seems to work at least as well. Maybe I'll go back to rollers for the hull sides and bottom. But I feel like I throw out so many things working on this boat anyway--gloves, mixing containers, sandpaper, who-knows-what. Something reusable like a squeegee appeals to my frugality. Just crack off the old epoxy before the next job.
    As tends to happen, things get exciting when actual assembly starts:

    This, by my lights, was more complicated than most. There are bolts holding the rudder stock to the tiller, machine screws near the trailing edge that have to be put in from the inside (which has just been pre-coated), a five-layer sandwich of ply and timber at the front held together with three-inch bolts with crown nuts on their ends and washers on either side. The bolt holes must all be epoxy filled to maintain encapsulation, the bolts and nuts tightened down with epoxy-covered, gloved hands (my poor wrenches...).
    Speaking of those five layers, I put glue between the spacer and the rudder-stock cheeks, but initially forgot to put more glue between the tiller arms and the rudder stock. So after I had those front bolts tightened down, I had to take it all apart, add epoxy (you can see the squeeze out above), and reattach everything, just making it all messier. I wouldn't want to have to remove those bolts, but don't expect to either.
    Puppy emergency. More later.

  10. #54
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    Often when I've been precoating, I'll try to precoat several things at once. It whiles away the time, and helps me try to use epoxy efficiently. I'm using MAS epoxy (2:1 ratio) with calibrated pumps. One squirt of each is really too much just to precoat those stock cheeks, so at the same time (and as long as I'm wearing gloves, etc.) I did the second sides of the remaining bulkheads:

    You'll notice that the grain on the nearest BHD, #4, is vertical, and admirably tight. But on BHDs 2 and 3, farther away, the bottom cleats' grain is running the opposite way. In the case of BHD3, the side arms are vertical-grained, but the bottom piece has all that funky runout. I resawed most of those frame pieces, so the differences are probably the result of my own inattention to the grain at the time I cut them. I'm much more tuned into these questions than when I started out. In the scheme of things not a huge deal but I thought I'd point it out.
    These were getting their three layers wet-on-wet while I was precoating the rudder stocks.
    Meantime, I also did this:

    Using callsign222's modified dimensions for Jim Michalak's oar plans from a 1x6. Except I cut one of the laminations too short, so I scarfed in an end piece. I cut the oar's profile out using my bandsaw. And while I thought I hewed pretty close to the lines, the outside lams aren't quite wide enough to cover the full width of the widest parts of the looms.
    But I glued it up anyway:


    I only did one in the hope that I'll learn from my mistakes. But to make a matched pair I really should have traced out the center piece onto my other piece of lumber before laminating the three pieces together.
    The oar is propped on my bandsaw and a ladder because the bulkheads are curing on my sawhorses and my plastic folding table is occupied by the tiller assembly.
    That's much it in a day's work. Today I'll see if I have the courage to attempt shaping the oar, then it's back on the road again.

  11. #55
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    Aug 2010
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    I totally concur with the squeegee observations. The few parts I did roller early on (frames mostly, but some ply too) just seem more crude. The wet-on-wet technique with squeegee allows you to lay down a very thin coat, knowing that if you got a bit too thin here or there, the next coat will likely make up for it.

    My oars are much the same. I used the Michalak 1x6 plan, lengthened to ~9 ft. I bought my leather kit from a flesh-and-blood seller (his composition, not his wares) at The WoodenBoat Show in Mystic, Connecticut. His actual craft is the tallow used to seal and lubricate the leather, but he's smart enough to know that leather sells tallow so he sells leather kits. Great kit, reasonable price (~$50 IIRC), and a super-nice chap. If I can find it, I'll post up his name and details; my garage is just as bad as yours and Alan's.

    I won't veer your thread into biking, but suffice to say I'm in love with your stable. I have an eBay bid on a NOS Wrights saddle. There's a used Brooks B67 being offered out of Poland for $85, but shipping is another $30. $115 is a great deal, but I can't wrap my head around a 35% shipping fee. I feel like you may sympathize. The Wrights may run me $75 with shipping and it is NOS. It's not sprung, but then I weight 170 and I'm likely to lean forward at least a bit on my commuter. Also, Goat Island Skiff (I feel like I had to throw a boat sentence in here...).

    Enjoy the frigidity...
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  12. #56
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    I've got a boat post coming soon. Thanks Dave. I bought all my Brooks saddles in England. I'm not sure they were actually cheaper, but psychologically it was easier to pay £70-£85 pounds for them than whatever the equivalent would have been in dollars.

  13. #57
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    So, this may actually be a constructive post (pun intended). Yesterday, as I mentioned, I got the rest of the tiller assembly glued and bolted up. And today, I checked, and the rudder even fits:

    Woot. Shock cord is just there for effect. You can't quite see it in this photo, but I drilled oversized holes in the rudder (and daggerboard) for their rope handles, filled them with epoxy and then drilled 3/8" holes through the epoxy. No handles yet. Mik doesn't call for this procedure, but I figure it can't hurt. That way the ropes are not running (and rubbing) through wood, but through epoxy "bearings," and any wear there will wear away the epoxy rather than bare wood. Can't hurt, right?
    What you can see in this photo is that, close up, the foils are not quite as glassy smooth as one might hope. Will have to hit them with a sander again before finishing.
    So next, and just for fun really (also because I was trying to stay away from epoxy today. I came down all flushed in the face and neck yesterday, with a hard cut off of the redness right at my collar. I may post a SFW photo of this. Or not. Might have had to do with the single-digit temperatures outside, or with the fact that I was epoxying all day yesterday. Either way, I figured I'd give it a rest today...), I thought I'd affix the rudder gudgeons:

    Following the advice of someone on here (I think it was on here...), I drilled the inside holes first, then marked the outer holes with the inner ones attached and the steel rod in place, as you see above. The first two holes went in reasonably straight, but the next two were less fortunate:


    https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8591/...442f30e0_c.jpg

    I tried to improve on my technique with the upper hole by drilling pilot holes from both sides straight through the gudgeons themselves, but I still was getting binding on the pintle:

    So, my solution was this:

    I enlarged the back hole on the top gudgeon, and _both_ holes on the bottom pintle... TBC.

  14. #58
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    This allows enough scope for adjustment to get the gudgeons aligned and the pintle to move freely, et voila:


    Perfect alignment. My thinking is that the one fixed hole helps keep everything in line, while the three larger ones help me get a fit. I will of course fill all the holes with epoxy before final fitting, and then tighten down the bolts enough (with the pintle in place) that hopefully they won't move while curing, and the end result will be a pintle that doesn't bind every time I try to take it in or out. I'm feeling fairly pleased about my ability to overcome my shoddy workmanship through hackery.
    In other news, I put in some work shaping my one oar:

    I planed the laminated edges down to their thinnest member, then band-sawed the thick edges (does that make sense?) to match the width of the planed sides as various points, with the goal of having a square blank. I then proceeded to start to eight-side the outer portion of the blank, which you can sort of make out in this photo. It may yet end up looking something like an oar!

  15. #59
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    Oh! I forgot this one. Had a small tearout problem on the frame of one of the bulkheads. But a little packing tape and a bit of leftover epoxy, and we have this instead:

  16. #60
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    Coming along nicely, Brian.

    BTW, what is it about GIS folk and Brooks saddles?


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