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Thread: Building the PDRacer in Slovenia
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19th February 2009, 06:09 AM #16
Temperature here is still bellow freezing but at least we have more sun
The kids are doing great. Glp... do I have to start thinking of a bigger boat? Does a fleet of kids equal with a fleet of boats?
The racer sides are now epoxy coated and ready to receive paint. I'm still working on paint design.
In the meantime I plan to varnish the interior and all the spars and folis. After a long inquery at dealers for a quality varnish with UV filters (not much they have to offer) I found Italian brand Iridia (two pot polyurethane varnish) for yachts.
Between all the phone calls I managed to make a wooden collar for mast though. Now I know that Michael say MkII racer doesn't need one I still thought it is a very very nice addition to the looks of the racer plus it has some other benefits (like it is harder for water to slip from the deck inside, you can rinse the deck with water no worries...).
Anyway I think that racers with such collara look nicer
So here it is:
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19th February 2009 06:09 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th February 2009, 01:50 PM #17
Haha,
Who am I to argue!!!
Good to have a name for a varnish supplier in Slovenia too. These sorts of links are going to make life easier for other people in the future.
Do you have a contact for the varnish supplier in Slovenia?
MIK
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19th February 2009, 07:46 PM #18
Sure Mik
One company is: Blik d.o.o. Zaloška 165, Ljubljana, Slovenija
They specialise in car paint but they also have boat varnishes and paints: Iridia and Maxmayer www.blik.si
The two Slovene companies are: Color Medvode www.color.si, and Helios Domžale www.helios.si (but their varnish doesn't have good UV filters. For example for their "Varnish for boats" tey write "it is good for interior/exterior use for doors, furniture....and boats").
Cheers
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5th March 2009, 07:57 AM #19
Gudeons and pintles
Hi all
Since the temperatures outside don't allow me to varnish outside (the varnish smells too much to do it inside) I went arround to buy things for the rigging.
At the same time I finnishe dmaking the sprit sail. Due to a small space inside and the lack of light I didn't take any photos in the process. It all took me a few hours.
As mentioned before we can't get here gudeons and pintles for boats as boatbuilding is not a common thing.
So I had to make them myself. The system is similar to Mik's boats on the net only that I didn't use wood on the rudder box. See the photos (first is a set for the rudder box, second a set for the stern stransom):
And it will look like this:
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5th March 2009, 08:05 AM #20
PDR 3D model
If anyone is interested and using Google Sketch up software (its free) I made a 3D PDR model just for trying out different color schemes.
The software is a cool thing. I have just some basic skills but it's easy to draw in 3D with it. So you can rotate and see the pdracer from all sides before you finish it - with your favourite colours
The last picture in my previous post was made with this tool!
I dont' know if you can download the file from here or not. So if not send me a PM.
Koala
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25th March 2009, 05:51 AM #21
Rudder box done
Hello
I've been doing a lot of varnishing lately and the first thing to show is the rudder box.
The aluminum gudeons were polished then mounted on the box.
All the reinfocment bolts are there too.
Foils are to follow together with mast and boom.
Cheers, Peter
p.s. If photos can't be see visit http://picasaweb.google.si/Koalcek/PDRacer#
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25th March 2009, 02:29 PM #22
Howdy,
Not sure if the fitting on the rudderbox will be well enough attached. Might be OK if the fastenings are glued in with epoxy and the glue powder.
The OZ rudderbox is quite good at shedding load too ... it doesn't stop the blade from moving back if something is hit so the rudder fittings may not get the shock loading.
If there is a problem I would probably use the same angle to make one piece each side. It will go under the screw head that is there already but the other face of the aluminium would go round the side to have a bolt going through both plates the same way as in the plan.
The biggest loads are on the fitting at the bottom end.
Michael
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11th April 2009, 08:44 AM #23
Painting/varnishing process
Hello
Re. the rudder fittings. I did glue the aluminum onto the wood with epoxy. I do hope this will hold on.
Finally the foils and spars are done
4 layers of two pot varnish on foils and 3 on spars.
The whole boat was primed with white two pot sanding type primer. (The interior still waits to be varnished.)
This type of primer fills any remaining scratches, small curves etc. and it is easy to sand.
In the meantime I was also working on the cart for transporting the boat arround (which already came usefull - its much warmer here now so I can take the boat outside for sanding).
Now comes the final paint. I have no photos yet but the first coat is already on (just tonight).
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11th April 2009, 06:52 PM #24
Looks really great Koala,
Did you use bolts for the rudder fittings as well as the epoxy? You do need both to attach the rudder fittings
Michael
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11th April 2009, 07:07 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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Fine job, trolley is great. Overhead pic shows shows rear tanks off well.
Brian
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11th April 2009, 08:57 PM #26
Hi Mik
Yes, I've scratched the back side of the aluminum and glued it to the box with thickened epoxy. Then I use 6x40mm (the middle one was 6x20mm of course) screws with epoxy to secure them. That is, wherever I put srews or bolts I've also filled the hole with thick epoxy beforehand.
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Now the bottom, sides, bow and stern are painted (2 coats). But I'm not 100% happy with the results. I don't have a spray gun so I used rollers and they leave small bubbles - thousands od them
Later (about 2min) I rolled the roler gently to pop the bubbles - it worked but I lost a lot of surface gloss because of it.
Do you have any suggestions so I can improve the tehnoque for the deck?
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11th April 2009, 09:04 PM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Koala
I struggle in just this same way with two pack paint. Very difficult to brush, nothing like normal paint, and rollering leaves these bubbles which do not clear before paint goes off. A pal has no problems though.
Should it be a different roller or fine brush after rollering?
I ended up, having had three attempts at a finish, with enough depth of paint to use wet and dry to obtain something like a finish. Never used two pack since, although I find I cannot get single pack to stick to epoxy at all. At least two pack sticks and gives a very hard wearing surface.
Brian
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11th April 2009, 09:19 PM #28
Thanks Brians
I took two pot paint because I found this dealer that could mix the colour I wanted plus these two pot paint are very durable as you say.
My initial search was for one pot Hempel paint which is more common here but the dealers stock only a few regular shades of paint (like white, blue and dark green). So I had to go with this.
Brian, when you say "wet and dry" are you reffereing to sanding?
Cheers, Peter
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12th April 2009, 01:11 AM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes, like sanding but instead of using sandpaper which is used dry, you use a fine emery cloth which can be used dry but can also be used "wet". That is dipped in water. Used with water it can produce a finer finish and the cloth kept clear of paint particles by dipping in the water and cleaning it regularly.
I guess we are just looking for the correct words, yes?
Brian
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12th April 2009, 09:06 AM #30
Howdy, if you are using the foam rollers I mentioned for painting the bubbles can mean too much paint is on the surface. But it might not be that.
With two pot I follow up with an average quality brush and do light vertical strokes to get rid of the bubbles. So roll a small area and brush very lightly back towards the areas you have done already.
With vertical surfaces use the brush vertically.
With most paints the first time i usually find the first coat is a practice coat and then the second one is where I can get it right.
MIK
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