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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Hunter Valley NSW
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    Default Building Shesha, a Hunter Valley GIS, Australia

    Foils
    Day 1 of making sawdust!!!

    For me, this project is as much about the therapy as about the end result of creating a boat. I desperately need a distraction from my stressful full-time job (I work for a local financial institution), a small business hairdressing business we are growing with the help of my 2 daughters, and my father-in-law's battle with a terminal illness. My on and off bouts of depression in the past 20 months seem to be under control now, so this diversion should be a great help in maintaining the status quo. My lovely and understanding wife, who herself also has a stressful job as a nurse, is very supportive, so I'm extremely lucky.

    Anyway, enuff guff. Today I dove in and cut the staves for the foils. The foil staves were cut from lightweight Paulownia, with the leading and trailing edges, which take the knocks, being cut from Tasmanian Oak, a local hardwood.

    Paulownia is a super light weight and fast growing timber, with excellent strength to weight ratio. It's close grained and knot free too which is great, so there is very little waste potential. I'll also be using it extensively for the framing timbers and chinelogs. Special thanks to forum member "whitewood" for supplying my Paulownia requirements and advice.

    The hull will be skinned with 6mm Okoume (Gaboon) marine ply, but the ply is not expected to arrive for at least a couple of months, so I may as well start with the foils and then the spars.

    This pic shows the staves which have small pins driven in to help keep the staves located during the glue up. Note the pins have been snipped off to remain proud by only a couple of mm. oops, missed one! There is some staining of the foil timber, but it doesn't affect the timber. I plan to glass and paint the foils anyway...



    The rudder blank glued up using polyurethane glue. PU glue continues to foam out during the cure. The clamps were removed after 3 hours, but full strength takes about 24hrs. There is a slight twist in the bottom trailing edge, but this can be dealt with in the shaping. A couple of the staves had edges that were not square. Will have to watch that when I glue up the centreboard... The staves for the centreboard are in the background.


    Yikes, the pics are huge. Mmmm, will see what I can do...

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Arundel Qld 4214
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    79
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    686

    Default Foils

    To me the staining on the timber your using for the foils doesn't add to the appearance. I felt it wouldn't and I'm glad you said you intended to paint them before I supplied the timber. I feel a lot of the stain will 'dress' out when you shape it but painting will fix the problem for sure.

    Whitewood

  4. #3
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    Apr 2009
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    Hunter Valley NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by whitewood View Post
    To me the staining on the timber your using for the foils doesn't add to the appearance. I felt it wouldn't and I'm glad you said you intended to paint them before I supplied the timber. I feel a lot of the stain will 'dress' out when you shape it but painting will fix the problem for sure.

    Whitewood
    Yes, I'm not worried at all. looking at the end grain, the stains don't seem to go very deep, so as you say most will probably disappear in the shaping. When I was making and repairing cricket bats, a lot of willow was like that. Nothing wrong with it at all, but people get funny and a stained cricket bat won't ever leave the shelves, so manufacturers bleach them. This bleaching is only on the surface, so creates a lot of hassles for bat repairers. Even a light sand of a repaired face causes the stains to be exposed, and a bat that looks like that plays with a batman's mind!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
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    60
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    Default

    Hi Bruce,

    Thank you for info and photos

    Hoping for great progress
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
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    58
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    Default

    Howdy Woodeneye,

    It is a good plan to start with the little pieces, spars, foils, rudderbox as they take up little room and are quite rewarding.

    I find foils terrifically rewarding and often not the surprise in builder's emails when they find they have actually made something beautiful.

    Of course it is never perfect ... but many of the components can still be beautiful.

    Looking forward to see how you are going.

    I don't think the glue will stain the paulownia once you have shaped down into it a bit.

    Best wishes
    Michael

  7. #6
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    Apr 2009
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    Hunter Valley NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Howdy Woodeneye,

    It is a good plan to start with the little pieces, spars, foils, rudderbox as they take up little room and are quite rewarding.

    I find foils terrifically rewarding and often not the surprise in builder's emails when they find they have actually made something beautiful.

    Of course it is never perfect ... but many of the components can still be beautiful.

    Looking forward to see how you are going.

    I don't think the glue will stain the paulownia once you have shaped down into it a bit.

    Best wishes
    Michael
    Thanks Michael
    Yes, some of the other members are doing the components first, and as my ply won't be arriving for at least several weeks, I might as well get started. It all has to get done at some stage anyway.

    The stain on the paulownia isn't from the glue. The wood was stained to start with. Whitewood rang me about it to ask if it was going to be a problem before supplying the foil timbers, but as I'm painting the foils anyway, it was no problem.

    My brother recently spent $3000 on new Paper Tiger foils (2xrudder and 2xdaggerboard), so I want to show him (I hope!) that it can be done for much less than that next time

    I forgot to mention in my earlier post that I have some of my DNA in one the stave joints of the rudder blank. Actually, one of the pics shows a red stain on the table Pointer finger got in the way of a very sharp Japanese saw I hope it's not a bad omen!

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Netherlands
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    60
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    248

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Howdy Woodeneye,

    It is a good plan to start with the little pieces, spars, foils, rudderbox as they take up little room and are quite rewarding.

    Best wishes
    Michael
    I competely agree with this. Besides it's also nice to have foils ready, so you can make rudderbox and centerboardcase to match actual sizes. More or less the same for the mast, if you want to make partners to actual size at a later stage.
    Don't forget oars or even a paddle if you have plenty of time.

    Good Luck!

  9. #8
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    Apr 2009
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    Hunter Valley NSW
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    62
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    Default Nameplate design

    Had a bit of a play this evening with designing a nameplate for Shesha. I couldn't decide on a font, but could not believe it when I found a font called "Hurry Up"! Shesha is a Zulu word meaning fast, hurry up, be hasty; be hurried; be in a hurry, hurry; get a move on, be urgent etc. PERFECT! So here is the the name plate.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    60
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    805

    Default

    I think it's OK!
    Aloha!
    Robert Hoffman
    http://robhosailor.blogspot.com/


  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    58
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    8,106

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
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    61
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodeneye View Post
    I forgot to mention in my earlier post that I have some of my DNA in one the stave joints of the rudder blank. Actually, one of the pics shows a red stain on the table Pointer finger got in the way of a very sharp Japanese saw I hope it's not a bad omen!
    No boat works well unless it has a blood stain.

    Richard

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    68
    Posts
    908

    Default

    I found the WoodenBoat Forum thread re rice paper decals which is sorta what you were asking about.

    So as to not high-jack Robert's excellent thread, I figured I'd post it here...

    Rice paper "decals" under glass? - The WoodenBoat Forum

    Hope this gives you some ideas and useful information.

    Bob

  14. #13
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    Apr 2009
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    Hunter Valley NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobWes View Post
    I found the WoodenBoat Forum thread re rice paper decals which is sorta what you were asking about.

    So as to not high-jack Robert's excellent thread, I figured I'd post it here...

    Rice paper "decals" under glass? - The WoodenBoat Forum

    Hope this gives you some ideas and useful information.

    Bob
    Thanks Bob, I read that thread with interest and the idea is very similar to an article in the Australian Amateur Boat builder magazine a couple of years ago. In that article you print onto rice paper or even oven cooking paper and when clear epoxy coated the paper becomes almost invisible. Could probably use Envirotex too as long as it's top coated with a UV resistant coating.

    How are you planning to make yours?

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Fenwick, Michigan
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    68
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    Default

    Bruce,

    How am I going to do mine? I have no idea...

    I really haven't given it much thought as yet, but obviously that needs to change soon!

    The only two things I do know - the boat's name is Karen Ann and the boat will be yellow topsides with a bright interior. I have to decide on a color and font for the name, and I am open to suggestions.

    Bob

  16. #15
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    Apr 2009
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    Default Shaping the rudder foil

    I shaped my rudder blade yesterday and laminated the centreboard today. I must say that the shaping was a lot easier than I was expecting, so it has given me a lot of confidence that I should be able to build a GIS!
    I have a very old Stanley #6 plane that worked really well on the Paulownia, which is a dream to work. Prior to shaping, I made the foil template according to the plans, but I didnít end up using it at all. Instead, I cut out the half foil shapes from the plan drawing and glued them to the edges of the blanks with PVA and went to work with the plane making long strokes from end to end. I found that I was able to create the foil shape this way without referring to the template. Well, it worked for me so Iíll use the same technique for the daggerboard!

    Wow, this foil is light!

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