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19th October 2009, 06:33 AM #16
WOW!!! GREAT!!! Fine photos!
I considered to shape my foils in my home study in this time, but my wife is against of it - I must to wait for spring...
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19th October 2009 06:33 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th October 2009, 09:43 AM #17
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19th October 2009, 03:04 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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The lonnnnng plane is a great idea for keeping the shape of the foil fair!
Something we do with important shapes, fairness wise and shape wise, is to make shaped sanding blocks out of foam, construction foam. In this application you could cut the foam per the template and smooth it with sandpaper and use the stick it sandpaper...stick a piece of paper on the foam block and run it over the foil along it's length. ANy high spots will be knocked down and you'll sand the foil smooth without messing up the shape.
I use this in cold molded hulls and blades and any other shaped surface that needs a lot of shaping without the worry of knocking it out of fairness.
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19th October 2009, 03:16 PM #19
They have a special name for those long flexible sanding boards that escapes me for the moment, but I get your drift. But with the long plane and a sharp blade on soft wood like Paulownia*, the planed finish was was almost good enough to leave as is. Sanding was a quick 2 minute job on this stuff.
* Did you know Paulownia is a "Hardwood"? If I remember my Botany 1A correctly, a hardwood is dicotyledonous. Silly really isn't it?
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22nd October 2009, 10:29 AM #20
As I'm close to completing my foils, I have a question about the glassing.
Does the trailing 2mm flat edge get a covering of glass at all?
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22nd October 2009, 01:53 PM #21Senior Member
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I could not imagine how I could get the glass to drape around the trailing edge. It's one of the reasons I vacuum bagged the glass but that's only an option if you have the gear and are nuts like me. I suspect that no glass on the trailing edge is just fine. My cedar foils became rock hard with the glass and epoxy so here is plenty of strength.
Edit: Really nice job on planing the foils to shape.Simon
My building and messing about blog:
http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
The folks I sail with:
West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron
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22nd October 2009, 05:51 PM #22Senior Member
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You don't need to do that, it's impossible and does not ad any strength.
This is the way I did mine. First put some glas over the bottum tip, let that cure and sand both sides flat again. Than I put two screws in the top and bottum of my foil to be able to hang it on two ropes. Put these screws towards the leading edge, so the foils hangs leading edge up. Cut the glas with generous oversize and drape it symetrical over the foil, no epoxy yet. Mix epoxy and start tapping epoxy on the leading edge ( use a brush ) if the leading edge is wetted ( glas is than kind of fixed ) start tapping epoxy on one side from leading edge to trailing edge. Do not brush, since this moves the glass in any direction and creates a mess. If one side is wetted out, start with the leading edge on the other side and carefully work down to the trailing adge on that side. Finally both wetted sides of glas meet each other on the trailing edge and stick together to cover this part.
Works well ! Be carefull and never brush or move glas. You can also use your gloved hands to push air out and finetune the leading edge.
Good Luck!
Pictures attached
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22nd October 2009, 06:33 PM #23
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24th October 2009, 12:46 AM #24
Very nice tips ... once the leading edge and a bit of distance down the sides is wetted out you can start to use brush strokes - but only downward and you have to watch what happens to the glass length on the other side. If it starts getting shorter you need to move to the other side and do some downward brushing there.
you can even use a roller - but ONLY roll DOWNWARDS!!! The first time you roll upwards you will see it is a big mistake ... like picking up a Koala. The roller is a good way of getting larger amounts of epoxy out on the surface and then you can finish off with brush.
You can also use a squeegee for downward strokes. You could even make two and do both sides at once.
But all of it relies on some area being well wetted at the start as pointed out by WaterMaat!
MIK
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24th October 2009, 07:54 AM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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Vacuum bagging the glass! You are nuts
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24th October 2009, 09:09 AM #26
For the foreigners ... and Queenslanders (same thing really), this is a political reference. Years ago, a federal politician was indulging in a 'photo opportunity', in this case, cuddling a koala for the cameras ... until the koala piddled down the front of his suit
Richard
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27th October 2009, 05:13 AM #27
Not just a political reference ..
But sometimes Koalas will walk along the roads and you have to stop. If you beep your horn the koala will sit down and look at you while the cars build up behind.
People then get out of their cars and nude the koala with a foot or umbrella. It will just sit and look at you.
At some point a practical sort of bloke will pick up the koala.
Then there is a burst of activity from the K as it shreds "bark" in the attempt to get away.
I have seen a shredded (and three day old) leather jacket. The owner realised it was a really bad idea just as he lifted the Koala off the ground.
MIK
MIK
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4th November 2009, 10:11 PM #28
I always believe in sharing information with forum members when I've experienced excellent service from a supplier. On Sunday evening I emailed my order for clear DAR Hoop Pine and it arrived on my doorstep this morning, Wednesday.
All the lengths I ordered were there, which included 5.1s, 4.8s, 3.9s and 3.6s amoungst other sizes, and all well packed in plastic with timber protective pieces. So I won't have to scarf my mast staves and gunwales. It is beautiful stuff. From a number of quotes, theirs was by far the cheapest, with some others that were double without GST and transport!
If you want great service and and excellent quality hoop pine at a competitive price, Lindsay Meyers in Clontarf Queensland is my recommendation. Lindsay Meyers - timber mouldings renovation Queensland hoop (I'm in Maitland NSW)
Thanks to forum member Andrew Denman at Denman Marine for the recommendation!
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6th November 2009, 11:28 AM #29
That's great info. Nice to know another good supplier.
MIK
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8th November 2009, 05:35 PM #30
The instructions mention that the transom top stiffener is 135x19. However the cutting list says the transom top is 210x19. Do I need to cut 75mm off the width this plank? There are no measurements on the drawing so I want to be sure.
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