6th Feb 2010, 06:05 AM #136
Joubert Gaboon Marine Ply
It has been a long wait, but the marine ply finally arrived today from Denman Marine in Tasmania. Andrew Denman is a professional boat builder in a little town called Kettering in the south of Tasmania on the D'Entrecasteux Channel. He became disenchanted with the marine ply offerings generally available in Australia, so decided to import the highly regarded Joubert Gaboon (also known as Okoume) ply from France himself and also supply us amateurs. Check out his website to learn more about Joubert Okoume marine ply: Denman Marine - BS1088 Gaboon Marine Plywood
I too was not happy with the generally inferior quality of marine ply locally available, so I was prepared to wait for the good stuff, and it IS good stuff.
This is how it arrived:
The six sheets of 6mm 5-ply were sandwiched between two sheets of sacrificial ply, and were wrapped in thick white plastic. Packaging was excellent and the edges and corners were well protected with special heavy duty cardboard angle packing. The whole lot was supported by a framework made of 4x2 pine and strapped up with steel strapping. 10/10 Andrew, thanks!
Click on an image to see a large version.
This is lovely stuff. I'm very happy with it.
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6th Feb 2010, 06:13 AM #137
My first mistake...No doubt one of many to come! A few weeks ago, cutting the Hoop Pine top frame for the transom was a disaster. I had left the jigsaw in "pendulum mode" and the blade twisted badly creating a terribly skewed cut. I had just put it away to deal with "later".
Yesterday I cut it off, planed the edge straight with my #6 and glued on a 20mm piece of Hoop, so all is well!
Never throw out wedge-shaped bits of offcut wood. Wedges come in handy quite often
6th Feb 2010, 02:48 PM #138
The Joubert okoume is very nice. The 9mm stuff I'm using in my Sea Skiff is Joubert but the 6mm stuff in the Goat was from some other French company that I don't recall. It,, too, was very nice material.The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
13th Feb 2010, 01:33 PM #139
Butt strap question
I'm about to glue the side panels together. The plans call for the but straps to be 510mm long but they have to be spaced 50mm from the sheer and chine. I presume they have to be cut smaller than 510mm long then?
13th Feb 2010, 03:03 PM #140
You POSTED in this thread!
Did you read the first post?
13th Feb 2010, 03:47 PM #141
15th Feb 2010, 02:50 PM #142
16th Feb 2010, 06:00 PM #143
A dead set genius!
Using a jigsaw I cut out all the parts that were marked out. A jigsaw makes this job a lot easier but it could be done quite easily with a hand panel saw, or my favourite, the Japanese dozuki pull saw. They are simply brilliant to use, very fast, accurate and leave a fine finish. I used this saw later to cut the Paulownia framing.
The late 19th century NZ kauri table I saved from going down in my employerís old building that was demolished, and restored has come in handy! I believe it was used as a board room table and later lived in the lunch room. Due to itís dimensions it couldnít be removed down the stairwell so I dismantled it and brought home in the car. Arenít those legs lovely? Ha-ha, the table legs I mean! It can seat 10 comfortably or 12 with much less elbow room. But Iíve digressed, this is about building a GoatÖ.
After cutting out, the parts all had to be planed down to the marked lines. A block plane was ideal.
The next job was to join the side panels together using a simple butt-strap join. Again, the nice flat, long table came in handy for this job. Care is needed to prevent the epoxy joint from sliding, so small panel pins are used to hold the joint. The pins are later removed when the epoxy has cured. Do you like my hi-tech clamping device while the joint cures!
The finished butt-strap join which joins the sides.
The flip side of the join. Iím happy with that!
Here Iíve started to build the frame around the #4 bulkhead. No screws used. Again, if you donít use screws, you need a method to stop the jointed parts from sliding all over the place. Just tap a small panel pin (depth about 3mm) into the ply or the framing timber. Then snip off the pin so that only 1mm protrudes. Then when the joint is made, it WILL not slip! This works very well on soft Paulownia, but with harder timbers youíll need to tap the joint with a mallet to bed in the pins.
Iíve completed the Paulownia framing of three bulkheads. One more, plus the transom to go! Here's bulkhead number two being glued up. I won't die wondering if I used enough clamps
The next task after the bulkheads will be to fix the chine logs to the sides in readiness for joining the hull parts together.
Thatís it, itís beer oí clock, so until next time... If I donít see you through the week, Iíll see you through the winda!
16th Feb 2010, 10:32 PM #144
Bruce, FWIW, the butt joint looks a little dry to me....I'd want to see a little more squeeze....it is hard to tell in the picture, but make sure there are not gaps in the join.
Feels good to start, doesn't it. That is how I felt.
16th Feb 2010, 11:04 PM #145
There actually was quite a bit of squeeze out from the strap side Clint. What I did was brush unthickened epoxy onto the strap and the thickened epoxy mix onto the bottom, so maybe that resulted in less bleed through at the join? Either that or the tape and plastic kept it clean and the joint was very tight. No gaps though
What I've noticed is that the squeeze out continues for about 1/2 an hour. It's amazing. I've been cleaning up too soon, and the next time I look, the ooze is back again, so I'm going to try and leave it a while longer.
17th Feb 2010, 02:00 PM #146
Good job...as long as there are no gaps! I have some gaps on my bottom panel I have to fill...the danger is not having them, it is forgetting to fill them later.
Yes, epoxy takes awhile to move out of a tight join like the butt strap joint.
18th Feb 2010, 09:56 PM #147
Today I collected my carís fuel supply for the week. A local restaurant in Newcastle, Zinc, supply me with enough used cottonseed oil for about a week. Thanks guys! If youíre a local, check them out in Darby Street, you wonít be disappointed with the great food these guys turn out.
100_6858.jpg Here is my fuel filtering station. Itís a simple setup (I like simple!) that has worked for me for the past 5 years or so. Basically, the cold, used cottonseed oil is tipped into these plastic drums in which are suspended 5micron food grade filtering bags. I have liners in them which are changed out every few weeks. What you see coming out the taps goes straight into my carís fuel tank. The car is a 1993 Mercedes 300D, a 3 litre naturally aspirated 6cyl diesel, and this particular one has been served this fuel diet for 2.5 years so far.
This car is perhaps the greenest car in NSW, or maybe Australia?? The other cool feature Iíve installed of the car is its 2micron engine oil filter in addition to the standard oil 45micron oil filter. This 2 micron filter constantly cleans up the oil, removing the need for oil changes, and so further reducing itís impact on our environment.
Well, thatís a little bit of a diversion to let you know something of my other passion!
Back to the GoatÖ.
100_6861.jpg Here I am sanding the cut-out of bulkhead #2 with a handy little drum sander attached to my cordless drill. These are cool little tools and so handy for this type of job!
100_6882.jpgHere the holes in bulkhead #3 are being cut out. The jigsaw is a Triton, an Australian brand that recently fell on hard times and actually folded. Happily they have now made a comeback, so we can continue to enjoy using the fine tools they make. I was lucky that Santa put this in my sack last Christmas by my loving wife A cool feature of this particular saw is its scrolling control. My right hand is guiding the saw, and my left hand is controlling the scrolling knob which controls blade direction. With this precise control you can cut circles without changing the direction of the saw. The advantage of this is that the foot of the saw can be filly supported on solid material at all times.
100_6883.jpgAll 4 bulkheads are now complete, together with side arms for #2 and #4 which donít get attached until after the hull has been assembled. This is BH3.
Iím going to miss the old table when it has to make way for the Goat. It has been really useful as a nice big workstation.
Iím hoping to go 3D in the next couple of weeks, after I have coated the parts with epoxy, so check back soon.
Thanks for coming along! See you next time
18th Feb 2010, 10:58 PM #148
"Here I am sanding the cut-out of bulkhead #2 with a handy little drum sander attached to my cordless drill. These are cool little tools and so handy for this type of job!"
Funny how tips like this seem to come at just the moment you need them. Drum sander for the cutouts! Of course, why didnīt I think of that?
Love your cooking-oil driven Mercedes. Brazil is making a big noise about biodiesel at the moment but nothing so practical or sensible as what you do.
19th Feb 2010, 01:10 AM #149
I'm glad I'm not the only one wearing a headlamp!
Drum sander. Great idea. 5 months too late.
19th Feb 2010, 04:25 AM #150
I just bought a set of the small drum sanders for shaping the ends of the inwale spaces. Now, I can use it for something else! Thanks
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