Computer cut kits

Boatmik · #1 28th Nov 2008, 02:32 PM

Howdy,

Lot of background stuff happening over the last few weeks. Duckflat has been developing up a precut kit for the Goat Island Skiff and the Eureka Canoe.

Gosh it has been a steep learning curve. Have been back and forth with the cutting people to get things to work correctly. Computer cutters (the machines) are really dumb. But the engineering guys who run them have been extremely helpful and patient.

Ted decided to to a test run with a 1/4 scale version of the Goat.

These are all the main bits for the hull.

It is a great reminder of what a simple boat the GIS is. That is the LOT.

On the full size version there will be more detailed bits ... like all the little gussets that hold the sub seat structure together will be precut too .. limber holes too.

There still will be a bit of trimming to be done so some parts have been left with a bit of excess because some parts of every boat take the bends a bit differently.

We are just a hair's breadth from releasing them. If anyone is interested it is Duckflat's baby ... so contact them (not me) via their website www.duckflatwoodenboats.com

But I can talk about some of the generalities here.

MIK

Compass Project · #2 30th Nov 2008, 08:39 AM

Michael, You mention that some parts were cut with a little bit extra so they can be adjusted. If I were to cut kits to the plans how sure can I be that they will all go together in a fair curve. I am used to setting up molds and frames on a strongback, fairing the set up and then planking. With the Goat, as with our plywood skiffs, we'd put the panels and b' heads together pre-fit without glue and get things tweaked accordingly. But how much tweaking do Goat builders tend to do to make the panels bend fair? I'd plan to make patterns out of good 6 mm ply so perhaps should use those as 'test' bulkheads first and bend the first set of side panels around those.

Cheers,
Clint

Boatmik · #3 30th Nov 2008, 09:04 AM

Howdy Clint,

Generally no tweaking is required to make things run fair with the Goat.

It is all in the plans.

The thing is ... it is not really certain exactly how the sides of the boat will bend. Because of the method they will almost certainly be closely similar from boat to boat and always are self fairing because of the method. More fair than an inexperienced builder can get with a more conventional build utilising a strongback.

So the bits that have to be a bit bigger to compensate are the seats and bottom.

The instructions are to cut the bottom 20mm wider. And the seat cutouts given in the plan have some added meat too. The transom has some built in factors to allow for the bevels.

Follow the instructions and you will be right.

Everything else is cut precisely. thought it can make sense to cut the transom with a bit of extra height and make a final adjustment of the height after the hull is assembled. But it does seem to be accurate enough to cut it at the beginning

Michael

Boatmik · #4 30th Nov 2008, 09:13 AM

Clint. The sides have enough points to tell if you make an error there. So the only real error you can make is to put the bulkhead reference lines in the wrong place (I did get one chap who found that the bulkheads wouldn't fit, but he was thinking the back of the side panel was the bow).

Biggest place for errors is in the bulkheads ... they are very simple so it is easy for people to overlook their importance. Happily ... there are not many of them so easy to check.

And those are all the bits that you really need to get right.

The bottom panel is pretty safe ... lots of points and then the extra 20mm gives an additional margin and there is a bit extra on the transom end too. Some of the margin is to account for the side ply thickness, some is to allow for slight differences in bend. I expect most builders will have to plane off about 12mm of ply, but I want the while 20mm there just in case.

Michael

Theodor · #5 1st Dec 2008, 07:26 AM

After all Pete's good model work on the GIS and PDR, I'd like to order a set of the mini GIS kit for Christmas to try it out myself. When will these mini kits become available? Postage to Europe?

Cheers,
Mark

Boatmik · #6 1st Dec 2008, 09:01 AM

Howdy Theodor ... they are 4ft long!!! Spectacular bit of household furniture ... the rig will be 6ft tall.

Can be scaled down a bit.

Contact ted@duckflatwoodenboats and say you have seen the model and ask!

Best wishes
Michael

keyhavenpotter · #7 1st Dec 2008, 09:42 AM

lead bulb, radio control. Model GIS racing.

Brian

Boatmik · #8 1st Dec 2008, 10:26 AM

a four footer could use a toddler for ballast!

Might have to be a good sailor though.

DISCLAIMER ... this is a weak joke by Storer. Do not send babies out in model boats!!!

MIK

b.o.a.t. · #9 1st Dec 2008, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boatmik

a four footer could use a toddler for ballast!

Might have to be a good sailor though.

DISCLAIMER ... this is a weak joke by Storer. Do not send babies out in model boats!!!

MIK

I dunno about that MIK... Moses' parents did, & he did alright.

kevjed · #10 1st Dec 2008, 09:20 PM

fair call

Compass Project · #11 2nd Dec 2008, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Howdy Clint,

Generally no tweaking is required to make things run fair with the Goat.

It is all in the plans.

Michael

Good to know there is a high level of accuracy/confidence. Will be nice after four boats worth of lofting, tweaking, relofting and "final" tweaking on a sweet 12' skiff we do with the kiddos. This should be a breath of fresh air. Thanks.

Clint