Thread: Detroit GIS build log

Welcome to the forum Pat! (& Dave?)

You already have more experience than many who've built fine Goats, so you should really enjoy the build.

Joubert for the win! Your lumber yard might be willing to help select nice clear wood and maybe some quality decorative pieces for certain parts.

Don't worry too much about the jig saw. Most cuts on the plywood are made proud of the lines and are planed or sanded into shape. Or you can buy a new one and blame it on Dave's ex-wife somehow.

If you're willing to do a phased approach with row boat first and sail rig later, you can certainly have her ready this summer. You'll save a lot of time not making the foils and spars. David Graybeal (arbordg here) did it that way with good results.

Good luck and remember:
no pics = didn't happen!


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As for other tools: Japanese pull saw without a doubt. And two sizes of plane, two handed (10-12") and one handed (6"). I bought off the shelf at Home Depot and they were perfectly adequate.


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Hello,

I couldn't agree more the suggestions made above for tools. Personally I tend to use handtools more and more choosing them over electric ones.

Oh, and lawyers inexperienced at woodworking can build decent boats: I was a first timer when I built my GIS called GISwerk and it has turned out quite nicely if I may say so!

Joost

Here's a tiny initial detail: do most guys prefer the coarse or fine thread drywall screws as temporary fixatives
?

OK, just whipped up a nice pair of nesting sawhorses. This project is pretty much done, right? Seriously, progress will be slow, limited mostly by funds. Everyone seems to like the Duckworks epoxy kits, but i would like to use West System (it's a Michigan product!) does anyone have experience with West for the GIS?

I'm using coarse thread screws which seem to work fine, though this is a function of availability rather than any real preference. I'm starting to switch more to hand tools over powertools as mistakes happen more slowly with them
for the Japanese pull saw I got mine for $20 from a big box hardware store and it's paid for itself already. Just be careful what is on the other side of the cut it'll go through leather and into finger very quickly

Cheers Dan

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Originally Posted by phoran

does anyone have experience with West for the GIS?

i built a stitch and glue canoe using all West Systems products. Very simple when the mixture ratio is built into the pump sizes; one squirt to one squirt. System Three products are two to one ratio using identical pumps. That made very small batches harder. There is some West in my GIS too since I had excess from the canoe.




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Hi Pat and Dave,

Welcome to the wonderful world of Goats. Just got in from sailing mine, it's a blast! Tools have been covered pretty well. I like power tools and use them whenever possible but a jig saw, pull saw, plane and sander are the basics. It's nice to have access to a table saw for ripping some of the longer pieces and the framing lumber. Often a good lumber yard can do this for a reasonable fee when you buy the wood from them.

Can't go wrong with West epoxy it's great stuff. I've used all kinds including the budget stuff and it all seems to work just fine for sticking bits of wood together.

Am i going to want West system205 fast hardening resin, or 206 slow? also, the duckworks kit features silica thickener, but i've also seen "wood flour". Which is best?

first sheet of plywood and a great discount= 69$!

Originally Posted by phoran

Am i going to want West system205 fast hardening resin, or 206 slow? also, the duckworks kit features silica thickener, but i've also seen "wood flour". Which is best?

I suspect if you're building in Michigan right now, fast hardener is seasonally correct.

I've used silica for joining bonds. It hardens to a white color. Wood flour will harden as brown. I think you'll want to use wood flour for filleting at least. It might also be suitable for joining, but I'll let others with more experience weigh in.

Use both fillers. Wood flour will turn the garish white mix to a pleasant wood tone.

I bought some more lumber today, 3/4" square cedar for framing, and 3/4" x 1.5" . the square stock was fingerjointed smaller lengths. Am i right that this will not make a difference for pieces like seat cleats, etc? i understand that the chinelogs should be clear and long or scarf-jpointed, but miscellaneous framing pieces shouldn't matter, right?
the yard nicely ripped them and plane/sanded them to final dimensions, so all i need to do is cut to size and glue to the various seat and bulkheads.

Originally Posted by phoran

... the square stock was fingerjointed smaller lengths. Am i right that this will not make a difference for pieces like seat cleats, etc?

Seat cleats, no problem. I don't think I'd like them for the stringers supporting the seat centers though. Not unless the finger joints line up with the vertical struts such that they get supported. I think your question shows that you have a good grasp of the design and the way forces are applied and distributed. Your instinct seems sound.