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| Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans For the multitude of wooden boat fans that use, and need info on Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans. Put your questions etc here and they will be answered and dealt with quicker and easier by the man himself and others in the know. |
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24th Jun 2009, 01:20 AM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, ME USA
Posts: 680
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Just an observation. I was looking at the lug rig in Oughtred's Arctic Tern plans. His yard diameter is 57mm at maximum tapering to around 36mm. His boom is 69 mm at max and tapers to 44mm but that has one attachment point for the mainsheet. The sail area is same as Goat, a little higher aspect.
Just observations to consider. I need decide on boom and yard scantlings since I am in the middle of planing down that spruce.
Clint |
24th Jun 2009, 05:13 AM
| | Senior Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tilburg, the Netherlands
Posts: 284
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Hello Ab,
Good to hear you are still making good progress. I bet you are looking forward to the maiden voyage of your boat!
I am sure we will get that picture for MIK done somehow!
Keep up the good work.
Joost |
24th Jun 2009, 10:44 AM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, ME USA
Posts: 680
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So I finished planing down the spruce for my laminated spars. I am going to make a rectangular boom with a heavy roundover, 55mm deep x 50 wide and the yard will be 50 x 50 mm, adding 10mm to all points. The glue line will be vertically oriented in both spars. Then I will do a flex test in the shop. If I want to take more wood away I will based on those results. The sailmaker will then make the sail according the the test. My plan is to go with a loose footed main with an outhaul and blocks and cleats for slab/jiffy reefing for the first reef anyway. 50 mm is a lot more than the plans call for, but I just found the spruce spars I made for Dana were quite flexible even with +2-3mm added on. Like a haircut, you can always take more off later. The B'mouth mast, of course, will be spot on the plans.
Sounds like Dabbler makes a great sail. I'll test out the local sailmakers first. I'll see if they ask about my spar bend! |
24th Jun 2009, 01:09 PM
|  | Golden Member | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA Age: 61
Posts: 588
| |  Off on a tangent...
If one were contemplating participation in the Texas 200 with a GIS, are there any suggested changes to the structure to be considered?
I would think that the sail rig would incorporate any improvements developed through this discussion and trial and error. But would anyone build the hull any differently than as designed?
Bob |
24th Jun 2009, 05:22 PM
| | Senior Member | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tilburg, the Netherlands
Posts: 284
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Hello Bob,
I believe that the Texas 200 event is normally blessed with decent winds coming from a favourable direction and that you will therefore be reaching most of the time (and not using any oars).
Pesonally I wouldn't make any changes to the hull, she works very well as designed.
But that's just my 2c.
Best regards,
Joost |
24th Jun 2009, 07:42 PM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
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Most important handling trick is if running and broad reaching pull up either a foot or half the centreboard, depending on whether you can sail like that and still feel stable.
That way you will skate over most of the shallows or feel them with the rudder first
MIK |
31st Aug 2009, 08:16 AM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
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23rd Sep 2009, 12:04 PM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, ME USA
Posts: 680
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Did Joost think up a way to deal with rowing the Goat. I was rowing us into/out of the marina today in Dana's GIS, and it is a royal pain to have a crewmember sit on the aft tank with the tiller there. How bout we think of a removable tiller concept, so it can slide off the rudder box and back on again for this purposes of rowing. The rudder can stay in and act like a skeg a bit. The stiffening effect of the tiller could be replaced with some cleats on the rudder box, either side of which the tiller slides on and stays on via a pin?
I also observed how well the Goat moves under oars and want to emphsasize to everyone the need for proper oars: light, balanced, and comfortable, but not necessarily stiff. A little give is OK.
Cheers,
Clint |
23rd Sep 2009, 06:35 PM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
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The rudder/tiller is so simple and light and strong. Maybe the icebox idea makes some sense there too.
MIK |
23rd Sep 2009, 11:59 PM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, ME USA
Posts: 680
| | GIS removable tiller
My idea...drawn out. |
24th Sep 2009, 01:02 AM
| | Novice | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Central Texas
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compass Project  My idea...drawn out. | Looks neat, but if you build it per the plans then the rudder is easy to remove, the tiller and rudder box are also easy to remove just leaving the pintles (gudgeons?) on the transom. Did I miss something from the discussion? Are you trying to leave the rudder down while rowing but just with no tiller? If so then the sketched idea would work really well I think. |
24th Sep 2009, 01:17 AM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, ME USA
Posts: 680
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Sam yes the tiller is permanently attached so to remove the tiller and rudder together on water is tricky. Plus the rudder can stay in to act as a skeg. |
24th Sep 2009, 05:05 AM
| | Senior Member | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Florida USA
Posts: 118
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If you remove the tiller and leave a bit of rudder down, what keeps it acting like a skeg? Won't it just flop side to side.
I've been trying to think up a simple removable or swingupable (new word) tiller also. The tiller on our current sailboat ( Seaward Fox) swings up out of the way and it's a great feature.
What if the tiller had a pinned hinging section just in front of the transom. That way it could be swung vertical and out of the way or even unpinned and removed but a stub would remain poking through the transom. A bit of line from gunwale to gunwale around the stub could keep the rudder straight. |
24th Sep 2009, 05:22 AM
| | Golden Member | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Portland, ME USA
Posts: 680
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That's a thought Simon. The rudder in the water helps most as a skeg when tiller is lashed. So that is a consideration. But you get some skeg effect without lashing the tiller. |
24th Sep 2009, 05:36 AM
|  | Moderate Moderater | | Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Lindfield N.S.W. Age: 49
Posts: 5,200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compass Project That's a thought Simon. The rudder in the water helps most as a skeg when tiller is lashed. So that is a consideration. But you get some skeg effect without lashing the tiller. | you could get the same effect with your sketched device just by extendig the runners that the tiller bar fits into forward by a few centimetres so it can be lashed at a point forrard or the pintles.
BTW why have the external pins rather than a peg/bolt through the tiller bar and the runners?
__________________
Cheers
Jeremy
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