Thread: Eureka 155 Adelaide
25th Aug 2009, 11:08 PM #1
Eureka 155 Adelaide
After a few false starts over the last 12 months I have made some progress on a Eureka.
I'm using 4mm Gaboon ply pre epoxy coated on one side. Why only one side well I find the epoxy reduces chip out when cutting but I'm too cheap to pay Duck Flat to do both sides and well the bottom will be glassed.
Rather than show everyone pics of all the build process (midge has already done a great job of that) I thought I'd show you some different techniques and different ways to stuff up, much more entertaining.
After a couple of weeks the current state of play is hull stitched and ready for some internal micro fillets well as soon as the weather warms up a bit. In the mean time I'm fussing over inwhale spacers and things. Might even start on some birdsmouth paddles to add to the degree of difficulty.
Pic1. I rough cut the panels with a good old cheap cross cut hand saw but after seeing a mod to a circular saw (acknowledgement to John Brooks, buy his book BTW if your going to build a glued lapstrake) I thought it would be good practice for my Coquina build also currently on the go for cutting out planks. Phew sorry about that sentence, anyway the idea is to pin two battens of the same thickness one following the lining out marks the other to support the saw. Add a a perspex base plate to your weapon of choice and screw a couple of discs to the base to set the cut width and hey presto you can wizz out a panel in no time. The saw will easily cut a mild curve.
Pic 2 After rough cutting your panels pin or screw a stack of the intended planks 2 in the case of a lapstrake 4 for the Eureka and with the same battens still pinned to the stack use a top bearing flush cutter in your router to trim to size, takes about 20 seconds per side. I have added a perspex base plate to the router to give better control.
Pic3 Ready for gluing the butt straps. I layed them out after carefully considering the precoated side up ..done, careful alignment..done. What have I overlooked nothing we are good to go. Wait I reread the build instructions says "make sure the panels are layed out as per below" but there is no below ah yes make sure there is a space for the inwhale on the sheer edge....got it. But wait I've got the panels running the same way I'll end up with a butt strap on the outside .......oh no it's OK I'll just turn one panel end for end
Panel Layout (Small).jpg
Pic4 The goop is down and I employed Miks clamping method some finish nails bent over works a treat rather than weights or some such didn't want things moving and the hull will be painted I think so the holes won't matter....I hope. Even masked everything off it does save a mess.
Now at this point it pays to leave everything while the glue hardens well I got impatient pulled the nails on a couple of joints the next day. Disaster struck the joints opened up because the pox was still green and maybe because I didn't give the surfaces a rub with some 80 grit must remember to do that on the pre coated stuff.
Panel glue up (Small).jpg
Pic 5 This is the result of one side panel joint opening up even after I heated it and reclamped. Not sure how I'm going to fix it yet maybe the gunwhale will be enough to hold things maybe I'll add some biaxial tape as I'm adding a drop in sailing rig so a bit more strength in this area can't hurt.
Oops 2 (Small).jpg
More to come if you are still with me
Last edited by jmk89; 26th Aug 2009 at 03:46 AM. Reason: move thumbnals to accompany text
25th Aug 2009 11:08 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Advertising world
25th Aug 2009, 11:26 PM #2
On to stitching.
Pic1 Noticed I managed to cut out the butt straps without due consideration to grain direction oh well.
First oops (Small).jpg
Pic2 Gaps are closing up nicely I used a combination of 1.5mm copper wire salvaged from an electrician and some 1mm galvanised wire the type you get in a roll from the garden section in the hardware store.
No gaps (Small).jpg
Pic3 Looks a bit like a canoe.
Taking shape (Small).jpg
Pic4 Remember I said I pinned a batten for cutting out the panels well I did carefully make a guide at 100mm centres that I could later drill out for stitching. Worked well on most of the seams but when I drilled the side panels I forgot to end for end first didn't I hence the multiple holes. I did say I was thinking about painting well it is looking more and more certain.
Oops 3 (Small).jpg
Mik I notice most builds have that little misalignment at the join between the side and bilge panels at the stems guess the belt sander comes into play, yes.
Pic5 My version of the Midge inwhale spacer jig. The second drilling is for when you want offset curves in your spacers or perhaps because I got carried away and didn't centre the bit
Midge inwhale spacers (Small).jpg
26th Aug 2009, 07:53 AM #3
With the alignment of the panels I've found you have to double up stitching for that edge to edge join, get everthing reasonably aligned with the stitching adjusted and then thump them into alignnment with a clenched fist. then take up the stitching a tad.
if there are two of you ... one can push and hold the panels in position then someone else can tighten the stitching.
Thanks for the note about "below"
26th Aug 2009, 07:58 AM #4
Oh ... did you see the deck fitting method we used in the Duckflat schools. Put the deck clamp inside the buoyancy tank then route down to the top of it to allow the deck ply to drop down with the top flush with the sheer. The gunwale then covers the deck edge grain.
BTW the Gunwale MUST be in place temporarily when the filleting is done otherwise the sheer will have a little bit of sideways curve adjacent to the stems that the gunwale will not be able to bend around later.
The plans cover it, but I forgot in one class (neither I nor the builder were reading my instructions)
26th Aug 2009, 08:28 AM #5
I've cut a lot of panels using a circular saw. It's a great way to do it though you need to set the blade to cut into a sacrificial sheet underneath. We didn't use battens or modifications to the saw though, we just used the standard saw and cut by eye. Very easy to do but you wind up with a rough cut that has to be cleaned up. The saw is very happy to follow curves, even random curves and this is what your batten method would prevent. The only reason I don't use the circular saw now is that I don't have a large, flat bench that I can put a sacrificial sheet on - circular saws and saw horses just isn't safe.
26th Aug 2009, 08:31 AM #6
I too nailed my butt straps down although I wimped out and added some weights as well. Worked for me ... the boat hasn't fallen apart and sunk yet ... mind you, I haven't even assembled it yet
Bummer about the joint that shifted. Assuming the butt strap is doing its job, I'd just fill the void with goop and sand it smooth, Mik'll never notice What did it do to the alignment of the sheet?
26th Aug 2009, 01:51 PM #7
26th Aug 2009, 02:15 PM #8
Worse the panel is not fair so some filling will be needed....double drat.
I probably should have performed surgery but my youthful impetuousness kicked in OK so I'm not as patient or accurate as Alex
26th Aug 2009, 08:57 PM #9
26th Aug 2009, 11:28 PM #10
27th Aug 2009, 05:00 PM #11
27th Aug 2009, 11:13 PM #12
Some fine tuning before fillets
Planed some scarf joints and glued them up for a strip on the gunwales I'm using Pawlonia for mosts bits and this unknown hardwood will be the rub they will look pretty too.
Scarf for gunwale.jpg
Rob yes OK I touched them cleaned off the excess pox tonight it is still cheesy so clamps remain in place...see.
Now it seems my butt strap alignment was not quite as good as I thought this end the side panel refuses to pull in and the bilge panel also refuses to cooperate.......
But after unstitching things a little gentle caressing with a sharp instrument and all is well, still can't quite get the bilge seam to pull perfectly straight but hey it will be under water right.
Mik this is the misalignment I was talking about ealier the extreme ends of side panels don't extend out to the end of the bige panel. I'm thinking either a little sanding to the bilge or a bit of filler.....needs a sharp bow anyway right.
Oops 3 (Small).jpg
Thats it for the moment my scarfed temporary gunwales should be solid enough by the weekend to clamp them on and fillets will fly.
BTW we can blame Jeremy for explaining to me how to insert the pics. It's oh so easy now so the waffle will flow.
27th Aug 2009, 11:40 PM #13
Keep of the grog until after you've posted ... and while joining side panels with butt straps
The weather looks good again - showers becoming rain then cold, wet and miserable all weekend ... and I'm trying to coat stuff with poxy Maybe we could come around to your place and help you drink all that alcoholic stuff you've been bragging about
27th Aug 2009, 11:49 PM #14
Huh......you aaaare pulling a leg there are pics in amongst the poor speelling.
and may well be the way to go
28th Aug 2009, 05:55 AM #15
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Lindfield N.S.W.
- Post Thanks / Like
- Blog Entries
I can't see the pics eitherCheers
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
By nickpullen in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 123Last Post: 13th Dec 2008, 04:51 PM
By Scribbly Gum in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 11Last Post: 5th Aug 2008, 08:37 PM
By Walesey in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 3Last Post: 2nd Apr 2007, 11:36 AM