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  1. #1
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    Default Eureka 155 Adelaide

    After a few false starts over the last 12 months I have made some progress on a Eureka.

    I'm using 4mm Gaboon ply pre epoxy coated on one side. Why only one side well I find the epoxy reduces chip out when cutting but I'm too cheap to pay Duck Flat to do both sides and well the bottom will be glassed.

    Rather than show everyone pics of all the build process (midge has already done a great job of that) I thought I'd show you some different techniques and different ways to stuff up, much more entertaining.

    After a couple of weeks the current state of play is hull stitched and ready for some internal micro fillets well as soon as the weather warms up a bit. In the mean time I'm fussing over inwhale spacers and things. Might even start on some birdsmouth paddles to add to the degree of difficulty.

    Pic1. I rough cut the panels with a good old cheap cross cut hand saw but after seeing a mod to a circular saw (acknowledgement to John Brooks, buy his book BTW if your going to build a glued lapstrake) I thought it would be good practice for my Coquina build also currently on the go for cutting out planks. Phew sorry about that sentence, anyway the idea is to pin two battens of the same thickness one following the lining out marks the other to support the saw. Add a a perspex base plate to your weapon of choice and screw a couple of discs to the base to set the cut width and hey presto you can wizz out a panel in no time. The saw will easily cut a mild curve.
    Saw.jpg

    Pic 2 After rough cutting your panels pin or screw a stack of the intended planks 2 in the case of a lapstrake 4 for the Eureka and with the same battens still pinned to the stack use a top bearing flush cutter in your router to trim to size, takes about 20 seconds per side. I have added a perspex base plate to the router to give better control.
    Router.jpg

    Pic3 Ready for gluing the butt straps. I layed them out after carefully considering the precoated side up ..done, careful alignment..done. What have I overlooked nothing we are good to go. Wait I reread the build instructions says "make sure the panels are layed out as per below" but there is no below ah yes make sure there is a space for the inwhale on the sheer edge....got it. But wait I've got the panels running the same way I'll end up with a butt strap on the outside .......oh no it's OK I'll just turn one panel end for end
    Panel Layout (Small).jpg

    Pic4 The goop is down and I employed Miks clamping method some finish nails bent over works a treat rather than weights or some such didn't want things moving and the hull will be painted I think so the holes won't matter....I hope. Even masked everything off it does save a mess.

    Now at this point it pays to leave everything while the glue hardens well I got impatient pulled the nails on a couple of joints the next day. Disaster struck the joints opened up because the pox was still green and maybe because I didn't give the surfaces a rub with some 80 grit must remember to do that on the pre coated stuff.
    Panel glue up (Small).jpg

    Pic 5 This is the result of one side panel joint opening up even after I heated it and reclamped. Not sure how I'm going to fix it yet maybe the gunwhale will be enough to hold things maybe I'll add some biaxial tape as I'm adding a drop in sailing rig so a bit more strength in this area can't hurt.
    Oops 2 (Small).jpg

    More to come if you are still with me

    Mike
    Last edited by jmk89; 26th Aug 2009 at 03:46 AM. Reason: move thumbnals to accompany text

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  3. #2
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    Default Stitching

    On to stitching.

    Pic1 Noticed I managed to cut out the butt straps without due consideration to grain direction oh well.
    First oops (Small).jpg

    Pic2 Gaps are closing up nicely I used a combination of 1.5mm copper wire salvaged from an electrician and some 1mm galvanised wire the type you get in a roll from the garden section in the hardware store.
    No gaps (Small).jpg

    Pic3 Looks a bit like a canoe.
    Taking shape (Small).jpg

    Pic4 Remember I said I pinned a batten for cutting out the panels well I did carefully make a guide at 100mm centres that I could later drill out for stitching. Worked well on most of the seams but when I drilled the side panels I forgot to end for end first didn't I hence the multiple holes. I did say I was thinking about painting well it is looking more and more certain.
    Oops 3 (Small).jpg
    Mik I notice most builds have that little misalignment at the join between the side and bilge panels at the stems guess the belt sander comes into play, yes.

    Pic5 My version of the Midge inwhale spacer jig. The second drilling is for when you want offset curves in your spacers or perhaps because I got carried away and didn't centre the bit
    Midge inwhale spacers (Small).jpg

  4. #3
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    Default

    Howdy,

    With the alignment of the panels I've found you have to double up stitching for that edge to edge join, get everthing reasonably aligned with the stitching adjusted and then thump them into alignnment with a clenched fist. then take up the stitching a tad.

    OR

    if there are two of you ... one can push and hold the panels in position then someone else can tighten the stitching.

    Thanks for the note about "below"

    MIK

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    Oh ... did you see the deck fitting method we used in the Duckflat schools. Put the deck clamp inside the buoyancy tank then route down to the top of it to allow the deck ply to drop down with the top flush with the sheer. The gunwale then covers the deck edge grain.

    BTW the Gunwale MUST be in place temporarily when the filleting is done otherwise the sheer will have a little bit of sideways curve adjacent to the stems that the gunwale will not be able to bend around later.

    The plans cover it, but I forgot in one class (neither I nor the builder were reading my instructions)

    MIK

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    I've cut a lot of panels using a circular saw. It's a great way to do it though you need to set the blade to cut into a sacrificial sheet underneath. We didn't use battens or modifications to the saw though, we just used the standard saw and cut by eye. Very easy to do but you wind up with a rough cut that has to be cleaned up. The saw is very happy to follow curves, even random curves and this is what your batten method would prevent. The only reason I don't use the circular saw now is that I don't have a large, flat bench that I can put a sacrificial sheet on - circular saws and saw horses just isn't safe.

    Richard

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    I too nailed my butt straps down although I wimped out and added some weights as well. Worked for me ... the boat hasn't fallen apart and sunk yet ... mind you, I haven't even assembled it yet

    Bummer about the joint that shifted. Assuming the butt strap is doing its job, I'd just fill the void with goop and sand it smooth, Mik'll never notice What did it do to the alignment of the sheet?

    Richard

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Oh ... did you see the deck fitting method we used in the Duckflat schools. Put the deck clamp inside the buoyancy tank then route down to the top of it to allow the deck ply to drop down with the top flush with the sheer. The gunwale then covers the deck edge grain.

    BTW the Gunwale MUST be in place temporarily when the filleting is done otherwise the sheer will have a little bit of sideways curve adjacent to the stems that the gunwale will not be able to bend around later.

    The plans cover it, but I forgot in one class (neither I nor the builder were reading my instructions)

    MIK
    Thanks Mik, Yep I intend to see just how much damage I can do with a router for the deck.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddles View Post
    Bummer about the joint that shifted. Assuming the butt strap is doing its job, I'd just fill the void with goop and sand it smooth, Mik'll never notice What did it do to the alignment of the sheet?

    Richard
    Wish I had xray vision to see how far back from the seam there is a problem. There is about a .5mm gap at the sheer end which the gunwhale will fix and it has not affected the panel alignment. It is more the fact the panel has lifted away from the strap by about a half of a veneer which I think translates to roughly half the strap width not glued properly.

    Worse the panel is not fair so some filling will be needed....double drat.

    I probably should have performed surgery but my youthful impetuousness kicked in OK so I'm not as patient or accurate as Alex

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    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post

    I probably should have performed surgery but my youthful impetuousness kicked in OK so I'm not as patient or accurate as Alex
    Yeah, we're all waiting for you to mature...

    Very thoughtful presentation of pics Mike, I'll enjoy this thread.
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by rob540 View Post
    Yeah, we're all waiting for you to mature...

    Very thoughtful presentation of pics Mike, I'll enjoy this thread.
    What like a vintage wine you'll extract me from the shed dust me off have me recorked to be flogged off at auction.

    I glued up some scarf joints tonight but I'm not going near them till at least Saturday.

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    As long as you don't go off in the bottle

    And I bet you touched the scarf joints today...
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

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    Default Some fine tuning before fillets

    Planed some scarf joints and glued them up for a strip on the gunwales I'm using Pawlonia for mosts bits and this unknown hardwood will be the rub they will look pretty too.

    Scarf for gunwale.jpg


    Rob yes OK I touched them cleaned off the excess pox tonight it is still cheesy so clamps remain in place...see.

    Glued scarfs.jpg



    Now it seems my butt strap alignment was not quite as good as I thought this end the side panel refuses to pull in and the bilge panel also refuses to cooperate.......

    Double bother.jpg



    But after unstitching things a little gentle caressing with a sharp instrument and all is well, still can't quite get the bilge seam to pull perfectly straight but hey it will be under water right.

    Fixed.jpg

    Mik this is the misalignment I was talking about ealier the extreme ends of side panels don't extend out to the end of the bige panel. I'm thinking either a little sanding to the bilge or a bit of filler.....needs a sharp bow anyway right.

    Oops 3 (Small).jpg

    Thats it for the moment my scarfed temporary gunwales should be solid enough by the weekend to clamp them on and fillets will fly.

    BTW we can blame Jeremy for explaining to me how to insert the pics. It's oh so easy now so the waffle will flow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post
    BTW we can blame Jeremy for explaining to me how to insert the pics. It's oh so easy now so the waffle will flow.
    Wot pictures yer flamin' nitwit

    Keep of the grog until after you've posted ... and while joining side panels with butt straps

    The weather looks good again - showers becoming rain then cold, wet and miserable all weekend ... and I'm trying to coat stuff with poxy Maybe we could come around to your place and help you drink all that alcoholic stuff you've been bragging about

    Richard

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    Huh......you aaaare pulling a leg there are pics in amongst the poor speelling.

    OK

    and may well be the way to go

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    I can't see the pics either
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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