Hi,
After much deliberation and looking for canoe plans, Michael Storers Eureka was recommended. I read and read the blog and bought the plans. I have read the instructions (don't tell my wife, it's usually "if all else fails, read the instructions") and now have the ply. The job for the next couple of days before I have to go back to work, is to mark out the panels.
Thanks very much for the suggestions and comments on the blog and I am sure to return a number of times as I work through the construction.
Malcolm

Malcom,

Looks like we are starting at about the same time. I am going to pick up lumber today.
My poxy won't be available until mid to end week since I am having to have it shipped to me. I have decided to make templates from masonite and use them as full size patterns on the marine grade plywood. It gives me something to do other than scarf the gunwales, inwales, and cut paddle parts while waiting on the epoxy, and will allow me to skip the layout step on future canoes.

That brings me to a question. Michael licenses the plans for "one" canoe. Can anyone tell me his cut for staying in his good graces while building a second or third canoe? I know my brother in law is going to be really unhappy with his boat once he sees this canoe on the water.

Another thing I noticed on some of the canoes was a nice brass grommet reinforcing the hole in the bow for a rope. I found informative instructions and photos for the process on Nick's canoe thread, but no mention was made of the grommet or how it was affixed.I assume it was just epoxied in place?

Cheers, Tom

Tom,
I don't know your answer to the "one" canoe question. I am an Industrial Technology school teacher (woodwork, metalwork and graphics) and have shown the plans to some of my students. I indicated that after I have made a canoe this year drawing on my vast experience at canoe making (read "none" here), a few of us could make a couple next year. I was going to contact Michael then to enquire what sort of costs are involved.
I'm not sure on the rate of progress with my canoe. I aim to get it marked out and cut out before I go back to work next week. (holidays at the moment) I don't have a lot of space in my shed to store large sheets of ply. I'll be able to put the cut panels on a shelf hanging from the ceiling of the shed untill I can do the next bit. Even though the uncut sheets can lean up against the wall, I don't have any wall space. I have a very busy time at school during the next few months (its the end of our school year in Australia).
Re the grommet, as you indicated, I presume it is epoxy glued. I was going to do something like that and ask for comment when I got that far. There seems to be advice against exposed screws and nuts and bolts.
Malcolm

If American masonite is anything like the muck we get, I wouldn't recommend using it - the edge is too soft and you really do need a nice, sharp edge on your template. MDF, though a similar product, gives a nice clean edge, particularly when touched up with a block plane and, I believe, will do a better job for you.

Templates are an area that's easy to be seduced by 'cheap' and 'availability' but they really are as critical as any other fitted part of the boat - you don't notice a good template but you very quickly notice the hassles of less than perfect templates.

Richard

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Howdy guys ...

With the Eureka I have been charging $50 per succeeding boat. However if someone really wanted to do THREE in total or it is a school project I would look at a bit more of a discount.

Best wishes
Michael

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Thanks Michael.
I'll be doing my canoe this year and plan on offering it to some students next year as their major project. I showed the plans to a few students after I got them and they said definately interested. We will see if they still are next year as we couldn't fit it into our workshop program this year.
Malcolm

Malcolm,

Sounds like a good way to do it ... the method relies on "feeling" as much as anything else, particularly with the stitching part. So it would be nice to have done that yourself as it will mean that you will have the confidence to let the students find their own way a bit on that section.

It is also a nice and convincing major project. Lots of different methods and materials use and very impressive when finished without being hugely difficult and truly useful at the end. Just a bit of care right the way through.

Best wishes
Michael

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These holidays are wonderful. Pity I have to go back to work on Monday!
Would have got more of my canoe done. Ah well, all these things to do and so little time to do it.
I was going to try to call you when I was in Adelaide a few weeks ago but time ran out. I did get to call in at Duckflats at Mt Barker though when we were driving around. Had a look and a brief chat. (The rest of the family was in the car so couldn't spend too long.)
The few students at school I did talk to I think will remain interersted (even if it becomes an extra activity for them) however there are some who wouldn't see the project through or have gaps you could drive a Mac truck through.
I don't want to set myself up for failure by making it a whole class type project.

Back to the marking out of the panels.
Malcolm

Michael,
I have marked out the panels but need to clarify a point before I start cutting. I am using 2240mm long sheets.
Both the bottom and bilge panels have the join flush with the end of the ply where the 300mm measurements start. The side panel has the join on the other end of the sheet and the top point of the leading edge is in the corner of the sheet. That part is OK. My question is when looking at the General Arrangement and Ply Layout sheet, it actually shows the side panel as having the join flush with the edge of the sheet and the leading edge top point back from the edge. I don't think it matters as long as I get the side panel join edge straight (so they join properly, no gaps).
Just thought I would check as I am used to telling my students to "measure twice, cut once"
Also the General Arrangement and Ply Layout sheet shows a couple of "L"s on the drawing. Are they important or just a printing thing? There arn't measurements for them.

Thanks
Malcolm

Howdy Malcolm,

Follow the dimensioned drawing for the topside panels - Don't worry about the layout sheet being a little different.

I looked for the little "L"s they are a printing irregularity from the program that creates the PDF files..

MIK

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Michael,
Thanks for confirming what I thought re the plans.
Also I noticed that my sheet size had shrunk. I am using 2440 long sheets, not 2240 size sheets.
Malcolm

Dear Catfish

On my canoe I used brass grommets which have a thread and a nut. So I just inserted them in the hole and epoxied before I thightened the nut.
But because the angle of the side panel doesn't make possible for the the grommets to meet end to end and to prevent leaking in I used a PE tube to connect them; again using epoxy to make sure it was well glued. Just make sure you check that the hole is not filled with anything

Michael described somewhere another method I think, using a piece of wood to fit on the inside of the hull, through which you can again fit the grommets easily.

Pete

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Pete,
Good idea.
Gives me some thoughts when I get that far.
Thanks
Malcolm

Hi Koala,

This method is probably strong enough in most situations.

A block of wood is nice because it does prevent any chance of fittings moving and leaking and distributes the load into the whole nose area of the boat.

The method is described here and there are photos on the following pages
Fitting a bow eye to Nick's plywood Eureka Canoe

One thing is to remember that this will normally be done before the gunwales go on so remember to allow enough space for them.

Best wishes
MIK

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Dear Boatbuilders,
I am happy to inform you that I have built an Eureka 155 in Hungary.



The building process was very interessting and educational. All the techincal problems were solved with the help of this forum - thanx.



I had some problems with getting the right material like plywood and epoxy - but at
last I made it!






Find video of first launch More photos here.
Thank you for the experience.
Bests
Csaba Mezei