Thread: Eureka Canoe
14th Nov 2009, 12:04 PM #556
When I coat the inside of the panels before stitching do I avoid getting epoxy on the edges, I thought it might stop the fillet on the outside from sticking?
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15th Nov 2009, 04:23 PM #557
Don't worry about it. It always works. If there are any epoxy blobs on the edge then they will need to be sanded off, but otherwise there is never a problem because the glass tape on the outside does its job.
17th Nov 2009, 02:32 PM #558
Everything was going well, although slowly until this morning. Last night I stitched up the bottom panel to the bilge panels, no drama. Today I went to lift up one of the side panels to put it on the trestle and the end got caught under my work bench and SNAP! broke right against the butt strap, I am really cranky with myself. I don't think there is anyway I can fix that without getting a whole new sheet. Arghhhhhh!!!!!!
17th Nov 2009, 05:20 PM #559
Don't give up too quickly though, it's amazing what you can repair sometimes ... it's also amazing what I've made out of bits of ply that started life as something else
A photo might help us.
17th Nov 2009, 07:25 PM #560
I am still cranky, I spent soooo much time getting it exact, epoxy etc. Anyhow, I decided that I will try and repair it, and then if it doesn't work I will get a new sheet, only $35 at the end of the day, but it is the time I spent that annoys me.
There is no way to add another 37.5mm in the centre without having two obvious and ridiculous joins, plus one big ass butt strap, so I decided to butt join the sheets at the break with the 75mm butt strap. Hard to explain, but I lined up the bottom curves which leaves 2.5mm at the top which needs to come off the adjacent side panel height (and the opposite side). This leaves 37.5mm at the other end where the panels join, so I cut and shaped a 37.5mm piece which I joined with a butt strap and will be hidden under the deck, Hopefully the join won't be too visible. I don't think taking 2.5mm from the tops of the side panels will be a huge problem, Once the epoxy is set I will lay it all down on the opposite side and see how much different the panels are, if it is too drastic, I will scrap it. I will get the camera out tomorrow and show you what I mean
18th Nov 2009, 08:36 AM #561
I have been ringing around the Brisbane area trying to find the rest of the wood for the canoe. I'm going for hoop pine because oregon is unavailable and red cedar for the inwhale spacers. 1 quote came in at $360, this seems expensive to me but I honestly have no idea what wood costs. The price is for full length pieces as per the plan and finished to the correct size. Guys, do you think this is expensive? I'm thinking a lot of that quote must be to trim it to size. The quote was for the following -
1. 2 lengths - 25 * 19 * 5100 ( Hoop Pine)
2. 2 lengths - 25 * 12 * 5100 (Hoop Pine)
3. 1 length - 25 * 15 * 2000 (Hoop Pine)
4. 1 length - 45 * 19 * 5000 (Hoop Pine)
5. 1 length - 75 * 19 * 1000 (Hoop Pine)
6. 1 length - 45 * 15 * 1200 ( Hoop Pine)
7. 1 Length - 25 * 12 * 5100 (Western Red Cedar)
18th Nov 2009, 12:09 PM #562
Make sure you get a quote from Lindsay Meyers - timber mouldings renovation Queensland hoop
I've bought Hoop from them recently and their service, pricing, timber and delivery were excellent.
18th Nov 2009, 12:17 PM #563
Thanks mate, I will shoot them an email now and see how I go.
18th Nov 2009, 02:33 PM #564
The inwale spacers don't need to be WRC at that price. You could either use hoop or something that is a contrasting colour at a more reasonable price.
18th Nov 2009, 02:52 PM #565
The WRC is $33 for the 3m and the Hoop is $17 for the 3m, I may as well go for the WRC I suppose as it does look good.
18th Nov 2009, 03:08 PM #566
18th Nov 2009, 09:09 PM #567
Don't know why I am talking about 3m MIK when I need 5.1m makes it a bit more pricey. Doesn't really matter what the price of timber is anyway as I am committed to finishing it, although it was a shock when I priced it. Maybe I should buy some more land and plant some WRCand hoop pine, it might make a good retirement fund!
Anyway I fixed the break in the ply after a lot of mucking around, it didn't turn out too bad, adds character. I stitched the majority of the panels up, surprisingly they came together flush, I'm happy with that. It looks like a canoe now, one big ass canoe, I don't know how it is going to fit on the roof of the Subaru Off to bunnies tomorrow to get some more copper wire to finish her off.
19th Nov 2009, 04:45 AM #568
Eureka on Honda Civic
The Eureka should fit fine on a Subaru. Here is a picture of the one I built on a Honda Civic with a Yakima rack.
19th Nov 2009, 12:10 PM #569
And both the Eureka and the Civic help each other look classy too.
cheers for the pic
23rd Nov 2009, 05:20 PM #570
Finally got to do a bit on the canoe - went to Bunnies and got some timber for the temp. gunwhales and scarfed them up, scarfing was easier than I thought. I threw them on and cut the glass tape and lay the strips out ready to go. I couldn't get the tape to go into the ends without folding on itself and making a mess, so I threw it in the bin and quickly mixed in some powder to make some fillets, lucky I found some clip seal bags in the pantry for the piping of the goop - it went well and It was a lot easier than I thought. I thought about doing the whole lot in fillets because I think it looks good, but I have a 50m roll of tape that I bought so I only filletted the narrow parts at the ends of the hull. I have taped and poxied the bilge to the bottom and just have the sides to go. 2 coats hasn't filled the weave so they will need another - bummer.
Just a question on the deck and bilge panels - which way is the grain supposed to run, I am assuming up and down for the bilge panels and longways on the decks?
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