Thread: Eureka in Germany.

I'm proud to anounce with the temporary spreader removed it measures in at 853mm.

Looking good!

Thanks Joost. I'm enjoying every minute of the build.

Kev.

I finally worked out yesterday how to glue the side deck supports in with the gunwales on. With another pair of hands it wouldn't be much of a problem but alone is a real head scrathcher. In the end it was nothing a couple of screws couldn't fix. I also cut and routed the deck beams from a piece of obeche. The seats and centre spreader are laminated obeche ( with beech), so should all match up nicely. I also got the centre spreader glued up.
Good afternoon.

Kev.

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I've had a bit of a break from canoe building but managed to find the motivation to do a bit today. I started to sand down the outside of the hull and in the process learnt a bit about the epoxy I'm using. It's been 10 days since I epoxied the outside and was prepared to have to scrub everything down before sanding to get rid of the "bloom". I thought I'd give the sanding a trial run before just to see what happened. I was suprised to find the sandpaper didn't clog up at all and the sanding is going along fine. I definitely think the temperature and the humidity had a lot to do with my earlier problems and also the curing times. I still have to give the top panel another coat as I've gone through in a couple of places but I was prepared to do that. There're a couple of places where I had bubbles appearing and there're small holes around these places that I think just need a touch up with a bit of epoxy. Also I can see the glass mat through the epoxy after I've sanded. I'm wondering if that will still be visible after I varnish.

Cheers Kev.

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I had planned to finish epoxying the outside of the hull today but the humidity was off the scale so I had a play with the seats. It's one part of the build where woodworking skills are handy. I marked where the seat positions are on the sheer and then using a string line I plumbed down to where they meet the hull. I used a joggle stick to get the widths and then laying a level over the the top used a bevel to get the angle of the cuts. I used a small dowel jig to join the pieces. The gluing will have to wait .

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It is really nice when some techniques not used in the plans get used. Even better when people write them up!

Can we have a pic of the joggle stick? Some will be wondering. Once they see it they will understand this page
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ticks&p=598447

Thanks Kev.

Hi Michael,
I really only used a very basic variation of the "joggle stick". I used it for the first time on the deck ends and was amazed at how easy it is to get a good acurate measurement. All the cuts were made with no fine tuning just a hit with a bit of sandpaper. There're a couple of good sites that show it off really well, especially the second one with the caravan repair.

Here; joggle stick

And here; http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...pes-29321.html

Faithfull scrap bucket supplies the material.

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Nice one.

I know at duckflat they use joggle sticks that have not just uneven steps but curves, points all sorts of strangely shaped bumps so you can't align the wrong step up with the ones you drew on the master panel.

MIK

I glued the seats today and sanded down the deck ends and then spent most of the afternoon playing around with the center spreader. I laminated 10mm beech strips underneath the seat frames as Michael thought the obeche might split. the deck ends are obeche and the center spreader is also obeche/beech. Matching furniture .

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I've been slowly getting around to making the inwales and I've finally finished them. The gunwales are glued on and the first inwale as well. My idea for routing out the spaces on the inwales got binned after the router dug in and shot one of the bits of wood the length of the garage. It was then I decided that your way was much better Michael.

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When I was looking around the other Eureka builds it looked like no two builders had built the decks the same. I didn't like the idea of using tape and I liked the idea of glueing on the gunwales first and then fitting the decks. I've sort of gone with Mikes (m2c1Iw) idea of putting in the little spreaders to hold the curve when the gunwales are taken away. I then took a sheet of cardboard and made a template of the deck shape and then used small nails to mark the outline. It took a bit of fine tuning but it came out well. Then there was a lot of head scratching and swearing as I tried to work out how to hold the deck down once it's glued but I think I finally got it worked out. I had to find a way to do it by myself as there's no one around to help. This is only the dry run.

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It is one place where the "dry fit" method proves its value.

It is very rare that I don't use dry fit for each stage. Much better than finding a problem later when glue is over the surfaces.

It is really worth doing it this way, Kev.

MIK

I made up the first seat yesterday. I would have finished them both but somehow fell 7m short of webbing material. I don't know what happened there.
The tool I used for the branding came with a knife attachment and is a really great bit of gear for cutting webbing.
Decks are on and maybe I can finish the seats and glue them in on the weekend. Maybe I should get all the sanding done before I do the seats.

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