Thread: GIS Build in New Jersey, USA
4th Jun 2011, 09:13 AM #46
"That's What She Said..."
Holy CRAP that thing is BIG!
Um... wow. I had no idea how tall the GIS mast really is compared to something familiar like... my house. Standing next to it, I strained my neck to peer at the tip and it dawned on me the the sail plan extends even higher by several feet more. All those pictures I've seen online make the GIS seem like a lovely little dinghy. Such a cute little boat you can build in your own garage, even a tiny European garage. Anyway...
My mast is constructed and tapered. I still need to round off the corners with my router and then sand all four sides smooth. Then glass the ends and coat with 'pox. Then varnish... Good thing I'm not tracking the man-hours! I just keep telling myself that there will come a point when I'm coasting downhill.
But I *AM* enjoying the process, so... more to follow!
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5th Jun 2011, 05:28 AM #47
5th Jun 2011, 12:43 PM #48
Boats that seem really big in the garage or alongside the house seem to shrink by an amazing amount when they're out among the waves on the big wide ocean.
12th Jun 2011, 04:30 AM #49
The typical thing is that the boat shrinks and grows at different points during the building process.
For example the GIS looks quite tiny during the upside down phases of building, bigger when upright, huge on a trailer and small again when on the water from a distance.
12th Jun 2011, 05:19 AM #50
15th Jun 2011, 10:36 AM #51
Set back will occur...
Ugh. I'm trying to finish up my spars so I can turn my attention to the boat part of the boat.
I'm working on my boom. Much like my yard, I'm laminating two halves together, each of which is made up of three scarfed sections in order to get the full 12' length. Well, scarf joints came out fine enough, but laminating the two halves did not. There are several spots where the joint is starved. In one spot, I can see right through to the other side. I thought I was being pretty liberal with the goop and for much of the length there is a good amount of squeeze-out. But in many places there's not.
So tell me: can I fill the gaps with more epoxy now that it's hardened? My gut says no. If it makes difference, I'm using System Three's Gel Magic rather than mixing wood flour and "standard" epoxy.
If needed, I can cut the two halves apart and start again. I left myself enough extra wood (this time) that I can probably afford the loss from kerf. But I'd rather not have to write off all the epoxy that went into the (failed) joint. I know other's have mixed and lost batches of 'pox and I've been pretty efficient/lucky so far. But I would MUCH rather just cram some goop into the cracks, none of which are more than 1-2mm wide.
AND it the weather is crappy.
15th Jun 2011, 10:51 AM #52
Yes, absolutely you can fill the gaps. Why not? As long as you feel there is enough glue holding everything together, this would just fill the gaps and make them smooth when you finish the spars.
Additionally, if you're squeezing stuff in there within 24hrs or so you'll probably still get a little bit of chemical bond, but gap filling post glue-drying is not necessarily a big strain on the new glue anyway since the piece is already assembled.
Do these gaps go through the joint? Can you see daylight through it? Or are they just shallow gaps?
I think you're more than fine. I had big gaps between the stem and the sides of the plywood and Clint just chided me and told me to squeeze glue in there and be a man about it.
So be a man about it and squeeze some glue in there and stop being a nancy, Nancy.
15th Jun 2011, 10:58 AM #53
I haven't used Gel Magic and I'm not familiar with its properties so my thoughts may be completely inapplicable... (how's that for an apologist lead-in?)
Is Gel Magic thin enough to use with a syringe? You know, those West System plastic syringes (I dunno, maybe System 3 has their own). (As an aside, I used to think those syringes were pretty useless - until I used one to pump goo into a space I couldn't otherwise reach.) Maybe drill a small entry "portal" (maybe more than one if need be) a little larger than the gap so you can cut a slightly larger opening on the tip of the syringe and push the Gel Magic goo into the join. You could seal the gap (minimal as it is) on the other side with packing tape. If you use clear tape you would probably see the goo filling the seam.
15th Jun 2011, 11:04 AM #54
My gaps: Goat Island Skiff Amateur Style: Gluing boat together #1
My solution: Goat Island Skiff Amateur Style: Filling stem gap w/ a fillet (made my wife do it)
Clint chiding me:
Callsign. Aw, that ain't nothin'! Take a lump of glue, put it in a bag, and like a pastry chef apply a long big band of glue along each side of stem. Then use a fillet stick to run along it and flexing the stick really press the glue into the joint. Do it fairly soon so you don't loose a primary bond. Gaps are fine...unfair lines are not...you can get away with up to a 1/4" gap thickening with a 50/50 mix of 403/406 (West System) or use Colloidal Silica and wood flour 50/50. Did you rip rails out to clamp to the sheer while the hull cures? It looks fair enough without them, so if not maybe not bother. (NEVERMIND, I JUST SAW THEM IN THE BLOG.)
Nice job. You are meeting my big rules: 1) get the lines sweet 2) glue joints need to be full of glue, no gaps 3) Follow the plan. All you need to do is #2. Fill 'er up!
You can smear glue in there with a squeegee too, if Bob's syringe idea is not practical.
15th Jun 2011, 12:13 PM #55
I guess my concern is what Clint said: "Do it fairly soon so you don't loose a primary bond."
It's been a couple of days now and I won't get to mixing a new batch until tomorrow evening. I think using a ziplock bag will help direct the flow into the crack. In some spots the crevice is half the width of the joint and there is a spot where I can see right through. But, most of the spar has a good bond.
I'll shake it off, man up, and forge ahead. I just wanted to make sure the answer wasn't "NO NO NO!!! That's a recipe for disaster! You're going to die on the open seas..." (which would be hard to do in my local lake...)
15th Jun 2011, 12:17 PM #56
If the spar breaks, you have an adventure, you jury rig something, you come back and tell your tall tale. Tell it again, this time taller. Drink rum and proclaim to everyone around about how manly you are.
I do this all the time.
It doesn't get obnoxious I swear.
15th Jun 2011, 12:30 PM #57
15th Jun 2011, 10:50 PM #58
Motion carried, the ayes have it.
Tonight I squeeze goo into gaps. Also receiving goop will be the oars I have in progress. Having read Vision Quest - Man Quest 2010 cover-to-cover, I see that the difference between an adventure story and an obituary could simply be a good set of oars. (Provided I can can glue THEM up properly...)
Let's all adjourn to our local pubs for more fact-finding!
EDIT: Change of plans. Rather than gluing tonight, I decided to plane down the two relevant sides to the spec taper. This way the gap I'm trying to fill is that much less deep. Plus, I had some frustration from earlier in the evening I needed to work out and wailing away with a plane was far more therapeutic than mixing and smearing epoxy with the chance that it might not go well.
18th Jun 2011, 01:02 PM #59
A stiff boom is a happy boom
I did the gap filling on my boom and was pleased with the results.
That was the worst of it. The other spots were far more benign. After curing, I finished tapering and sanding smooth all four sides. The measured flex in the center of the boom with 10kg is 20mm on all four sides. I like the consistency; my two other builds were highly variable. The spar weighs 7.2lbs/3.3kg.
I've got my router set up to radius the corners off tomorrow. Then I'll sand and radius the yard and the mast. If that goes well, I might get to fiberglassing the ends. That's a little optimistic since I have my son's birthday party in the afternoon and a scheduled sail on my brother's J24 on Sunday.
18th Jun 2011, 07:39 PM #60
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