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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

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    Hi Teedee. Thanks for the comments. I decided on the oval hatch because I think I can get my arm in there to reach the rudder hardware that apparently is through bolted through the transom. I haven't ordered the hardware yet so we'll find out how it works out.

    The plywood covers are shown on my Arctic Tern drawings and are detailed in Oughtred's book on plywood lap strake boats. It is pretty simple although a couple steps. First you can shim out the inside face of the hole to accommodate the gasket thickness. I assumed a 1/4" and just kept on going. Turns out the cheaper gasket stuff from our local building supply is all less than that. I can get 1/4" from the marine supply for about twice as much money which I'll end up spending at some point this winter. You could also skip the shim if you don't mind the cover sticking out past the bulkhead a bit. Once the shim is glued in you can flush it up to your hole if you already cut it. Then you make a piece with a smaller opening to provide the seat for the gasket. Glue that in and you're ready. If you're careful cutting out the opening in the bulkhead, you can use the cut out piece for the cover. I wasn't that careful and just traced the opening and cut out a new cover. Then you glue on a handle on the front or attach hardware and on the back glue on a brace or two. I purchased some shock cord and hooks at the marine shop and will use the cord to hold the cover in place. I drilled a couple holes in the trapezoidal braces on the seat post and a couple holes in the brace on the backside of the cover. I'm not crazy about the true oval and would have preferred a more rectangular shape with rounded corners, but I'm moving on.

    i also don't know about the performance of this sort of cover verses a plastic screw on cover. I assume the plastic is more water tight.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    32

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    Beaton1, thanks for that. Yes, plastic covers will certainly be waterproof. I do like the look of wood however. I am not quite at the point where I have to make the final decision. I am enjoying mulling over the various options.
    cheers Trevor D

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Got the inside of the boat painted. Still could use another coat on the two seats, but I'm out of paint. Think I'll try to flip it over now and get the outside done and then varnish. My 7 year old son chose the color. I was leaning towards a putty color, but I like his choice and it's cheerful. Will be white on the outside. Prep work on the interior was tedious. Sanded my fingernails half off and my fingertips too. Precoating probably would have helped a little, but it was mostly dealing with all the corners, under the seats, around the centerboard case etc that took most of the time. I think being especially neat during/after glue ups would have been helpful. The darn epoxy squeeze out. Then filling holes, filling the holes I missed, two coats of primer sanded each time and then the paint. Filling holes with a syringe worked really well. Used Behr no- skid stuff mixed with paint on the floors. Came out ok. We'll see how it works out.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    474

    Default

    Looks like it turned out a good job, and the colour is chirpy.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    You are very far along. Good work. MIK says that the finish work is half the work. Looks like he is right.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beaton1 View Post
    Hi Teedee. Thanks for the comments. I decided on the oval hatch because I think I can get my arm in there to reach the rudder hardware that apparently is through bolted through the transom. I haven't ordered the hardware yet so we'll find out how it works out.

    The plywood covers are shown on my Arctic Tern drawings and are detailed in Oughtred's book on plywood lap strake boats. It is pretty simple although a couple steps. First you can shim out the inside face of the hole to accommodate the gasket thickness. I assumed a 1/4" and just kept on going. Turns out the cheaper gasket stuff from our local building supply is all less than that. I can get 1/4" from the marine supply for about twice as much money which I'll end up spending at some point this winter. You could also skip the shim if you don't mind the cover sticking out past the bulkhead a bit. Once the shim is glued in you can flush it up to your hole if you already cut it. Then you make a piece with a smaller opening to provide the seat for the gasket. Glue that in and you're ready. If you're careful cutting out the opening in the bulkhead, you can use the cut out piece for the cover. I wasn't that careful and just traced the opening and cut out a new cover. Then you glue on a handle on the front or attach hardware and on the back glue on a brace or two. I purchased some shock cord and hooks at the marine shop and will use the cord to hold the cover in place. I drilled a couple holes in the trapezoidal braces on the seat post and a couple holes in the brace on the backside of the cover. I'm not crazy about the true oval and would have preferred a more rectangular shape with rounded corners, but I'm moving on.

    i also don't know about the performance of this sort of cover verses a plastic screw on cover. I assume the plastic is more water tight.

    Here are my oval hatches in action. Mine are built the same as you describe and work great. I have replaced the gaskets 1 time after 2 sailing seasons due to some nics and cuts on the gaskets.

    OK goat capsize.wmv - YouTube

    Mine are big enough, about 7"x14", to fit a 1/2 gallon Igloo Cooler in.

    Reaching the thru bolts for the rudder hardware will require some long arms. I installed the rudder hardware before I put the deck, but I can reach the nuts to tighten them. Just can't see anything because it's all by feel while you lay in the bottom of the boat on your head.

    Love the interior color/colour of the boat.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Snowing more here today and I figured I'd snap a shot of the lonely Goat trailer out back. I bought it new in December after not finding much on the used market for much less than the new one. Had the cash at the time so I bought the trailer before it was gone. Supposed to warm up tomorrow with temps in the 40s for the next few days so hopefully it won't be too much longer before getting back to work on the boat. I imagine the snow will be melted before I'm ready for the trailer but there could be wooly mammoth under there we need to work around. I'm also winding down the house projects. Lot of painting since last summer between the house and the boat. Need one last push on the boat and then hopefully hanging the brush up for a bit. As soon as I crack the lid I have paint on me! Ready for spring.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Here's the trailer up to gunwales.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

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    Well, all the house work paid off and it was under agreement on the first day! My wife said, "I'll be ##\+! If that #}|€¥ boat helped sell the house. Anyway, if all goes according to plan, I've got until the end of April to finish the boat before we move somewhere else. Spring isn't showing its face yet and it's supposed to be a low of 6F tonight. But I swung by the lumberyard this morning and picked up a piece of pine and got the strips cut for the foils. Since I had to clean up everything for the showings, the basement is all neat now, so I moved down there for the glue ups. Using fast set hardener. Think it's about 50 F down there. Plans say to finish at 22mm. Wondering how much the glass will add to the thickness. My centreboard slot is 25mm per the plans.
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  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

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    Thanks for comments on the boat by the way. It's been a busy fall and winter. I'm looking forward to seeing the inside color out in the sun. Think we'll like it. The paint work was quite a bit of work. I watched your u-tube John of the capsize. Looks like it went fairly smoothly and it's good to hear that the wooden cover kept it dry. Almost picked up the fir for the mast today too, but think ill swing into another yard tomorrow to see what they have. Think they carry thicker stuff for the spars. Need to do a little measuring and figuring to determine if I could get it glued up in the basement.

    I'm thinking of ordering the sail soon but still not sure if we want to spend the money on it. Was considering the duck works sail. Is there another route anyway would recommend? I'm new to sailing so don't really know what to order as far as reef points, battens, tell tales etc.

    Thanks and hope everyone has a good week.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Thanks for that link. I hadn't seen it on the duck works website. That's what I'll do. Stopped at the lumber yard to see what they had. Doug Fir is spendy here, especially in thicker dimensions. Decided to do a bit more figuring and think I've got a plan now. Might go spruce if the fir doesn't pan out.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

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    Ready to fiberglass. The hand planing in the barn helped with keeping warm along with mittens. Back to the basement in the morning for the epoxy work. Hope to get the mast timber early next week.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

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    My foils started at a 22mm thickness and ended up with perfect clearance (1 or 1.5mm?) after the two layers of glass (on centerboard). IIRC I put only one layer on the rudder--whatever MIK called for. I recall I was worried, too, since the case was already built (25mm clear) but it worked out just fine.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

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