Thread: GIS sail tweaking

Pictures = good

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This is my bleater/vanghaul set up.

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This here is my burly awesome outhaul which allows for tight foot for the loose-footed crowd and nice belly adjustments for downwind and chop.

I have to be careful with the clew tie-down as sometimes it will bind and resist the outhaul, which is a pain. I wish there was a simple solution short of parrel beads.

Originally Posted by warm beer

Hey Christophe, as we have the same sail. Do you mind telling me your current favorite full sail yard lash point as distance from the luff, and favorite bleater length as distance from luff to mast?

Separate issue - I'm thinking of having a sailmaker add a leech batten to my sail about half the distance from my upper reef point to the peak.

I will measure right now, don't go anywhere!

56 inches from halyard attachment point to the throat attachment point. This would become 55 inches if you calculate the distance of the loop attachment that the halyard goes through.

The bleater allows for 12 inches from the tack of the sail to the front of the mast.

Again, these measurements are based off sail locations, not spar ends, bleater attachments, etc.

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Here are a few pics of the rig up so you can see where the duckworks sticker is, etc.

pictures = good++

nice rig!

Is that a Buddha wearing a sombrero?

Originally Posted by callsign222

56 inches from halyard attachment point to the throat attachment point. This would become 55 inches if you calculate the distance of the loop attachment that the halyard goes through.

The bleater allows for 12 inches from the tack of the sail to the front of the mast.

Again, these measurements are based off sail locations, not spar ends, bleater attachments, etc.

DSC00510.jpgDSC00511.JPG

Here are a few pics of the rig up so you can see where the duckworks sticker is, etc.

Thanks a ton for the measurements! I was at 57" and 16" from leading edge of the luff. My duckworks patch half covered by the mast. I'm moving my sail back next outing on both yard and bleater.

BTW: I did successfully ram a rental kayak this weekend, though no kids on board. A girl was trying to keep up with her boyfriend and paddled up underneath my tack in my blind spot. Says she never saw me. I can understand that, as I never saw her either until someone on the boat I was keeping an eye on yelled "watch out"! No damage done as I let go at the last second and killed speed. We didn't even exchange insurance information.

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Buddha makes some mean enchiladas.

Here's the same picture from post 439 but with graphical representations.

Click on the the one up top. I can't seem to delete previous attachments.

Originally Posted by warm beer

Thanks a ton for the measurements! I was at 57" and 16" from leading edge of the luff. My duckworks patch half covered by the mast. I'm moving my sail back next outing on both yard and bleater.

I like the luff to be parallel to the mast. Aesthetically pleasing to me.

Originally Posted by callsign222

Pictures = good

This here is my burly awesome outhaul which allows for tight foot for the loose-footed crowd and nice belly adjustments for downwind and chop.

I have to be careful with the clew tie-down as sometimes it will bind and resist the outhaul, which is a pain. I wish there was a simple solution short of parrel beads.

Nice setup! How easy is it to adjust on the fly? Do you adjust it during a slow tack?
I have yet to rig an adjustable outhaul but have been thinking about the possibility of clue tie-down binding. I'm using Amsteel because it is super slick and it slides nicely on the varnish. Can't tell you that it works for sure until I have the outhaul rigged but its cheap and quick to try. Pick up a foot of 8mm or so for a buck and change at West. I think you want it fat like 8mm so that it wants to slide rather than dig into the wood, but that's just a guess.

It is much easier to adjust on the fly than what I had before, which was a cleat. That being said, the slow tack works, but sometimes it's nice to use two hands still, one to hold the boom/sail and one to pull the outhaul, so speed is key. Releases are easy. Again, a mizzen would make life oh-so-sweet in the regard, because as we all know she just falls right off the wind and the sail will fill.

I thought about moving it deep inboard, so I could just heave-to (which the Goat does nicely) and adjust at my leisure, but then I would have a long long outhaul and increased stretch over that distance, and with my fattybaggy sail and the loose-footedness I really want to minimize that as much as possible.

Thanks for the tip on Amsteel Simon, I will look for it.

Gotta ask... why the two cheek blocks on the boom? Since they are both fixed, aren't they only changing the direction of the pull (i.e., no mechanical advantage)? Or is this another one of those techno-physics things I promptly forgot when I left school? And if the two blocks are providing mechanical advantage, could you gently explain it to me?

Thanks.

Because I can get my hand on the sail and my hand on the outhaul and pull the sail down in one direction and the outhaul in the other, which makes it much easier to get tight tension as opposed to one cheek block on the boom and pulling both in the same direction-- same thing but non-intuitive to me, especially on a non-fixed floating boom. All the while getting the line to line up nice with a jam cleat, as opposed to just coming off the smaller Haarken block on the end of the boom and being all twisty.

And it looks so damn cool.

As far as the physics, you're on your own, but you're right, unless I put a block on the clew, which just gave me a crazy idea but I'll have to build a slightly longer boom...

Sooo do you think some purchase on the outhaul would be worth adding the hardware? If so, 2:1, 3:1?

Originally Posted by SimonLew

Sooo do you think some purchase on the outhaul would be worth adding the hardware? If so, 2:1, 3:1?

I'd recommend at least 4:1 for the GIS foot. A small cascade like this is quite elegant and makes adjustment very easy. Use a nice thin Spectra line as the loads are quite low, and the smallest, cheapest blocks you can find. My little blocks cost about $4 (see pic, actual size). The line you pull and cleat can be 4mm, but the other can be 2mm, for example SpectraSpeed which is cheap too.

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Thanks, that looks nice and clean. I haven't played much with the outhaul on my boats beyond very coarse light vs heavy wind adjustments at he beginning of the day. Do you need that much purchase because you are actually going to apply that much tension while the sail is unloaded or is the purchase there so that the sail can be adjusted while sheeted in and under wind load?